Electronics/Motor Package Assembly ?

[toppack]

I was able to make a simple looped push-pull rod to slip over power switch to turn it off/on.
Where rod goes thru hull it is bent into a U shape, then goes into another hole in hull, to lock it in place. This allows the rod to be almost completely removed, so it won't interfer with installing the SD, which has to be pushed past the rod, to engage shaft-couplings, when installing SD.
It slips over the switch easily but does Not slip off when actvating switch, since the U-bend holds it tightly. :)
See Pics: (first is in Off position, 2nd is On)
Notice the black U-shaped wire protruding thru hull. That is all that is seen on outside, just at bottom of superstructure.

[shamrock]

toppack my name is shamrock. i also am building gato sub .the hose blew off my gas valve need help with repair any advice. thanks

[toppack]

toppack my name is shamrock. i also am building gato sub .the hose blew off my gas valve need help with repair any advice. thanks

Hello, shamrock
Luckily I've never had to make a repair such as that.
I hope David can tell us both the best way to do that, since that SD has the feedthru tube connected to both inner bulkheads, it's not going to be real easy, if you can't reconnect it with some special tools, such as long needle-nose plyers, working thru the large vent holes?
I think both inner bulkheads need to be removed as an assembly. But doing that without damage, is another question?
David, HELP!

[toppack]

Well, no one seems to have suggestions on the bulkhead-assembly removal.
So I would suggest spraying in some lubricate, such as silicone oil, down around the O-rings, to help remove and install the inner bulkheads. After removing the screws and end bulkhead assemblies, of course.
Then push out both, pressing at the inner connecting tube, with a large wooden dowl or something similar. Hopefully the O-rings will lossen and the complete assembly will slide out.

Automotive silicone hose/wire protection spray or PB-blaster lubricant spray should work.
I think I would try PB-blaster first, Great stuff!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hello, shamrock
Luckily I've never had to make a repair such as that.
I hope David can tell us both the best way to do that, since that SD has the feedthru tube connected to both inner bulkheads, it's not going to be real easy, if you can't reconnect it with some special tools, such as long needle-nose plyers, working thru the large vent holes?
I think both inner bulkheads need to be removed as an assembly. But doing that without damage, is another question?
David, HELP!

No, no ... just use a hemostat, working through the central 1" flood/drain hole. Easy as pie.

David,

[toppack]

If you don't have any hemostats, I guess you need to get to Know a Nurse real well. While you're at it, get Her to put the hose back on for you. They have Great Hands, you know. :D

I knew if I started making suggestions, David would Wake up. :D
Sounds like a 'Difficult Pie' to me, tho!
I think what David is saying is that you NEVER want to try to remove the inner bulkheads, so I certainly hope we never have to.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

If you don't have any hemostats, I guess you need to Know a Nurse real well. While you're at it, get Her to put the hose back on for you. They have Great Hands, you know. :D
I knew if I started making suggestions, David would Wake up. :D

Hey, I sometimes forget that what's old-hat and easy for me is an 'adventure' for others. You'll find these (big and small, get both) at Harbor Freight and the like.

David,

[shamrock]

If you don't have any hemostats, I guess you need to get to Know a Nurse real well. While you're at it, get Her to put the hose back on for you. They have Great Hands, you know. :D

I knew if I started making suggestions, David would Wake up. :D
Sounds like a 'Difficult Pie' to me, tho!
I think what David is saying is that you NEVER want to try to remove the inner bulkheads, so I certainly hope we never have to.

Thanks for the advice. I'll try this weekend when I get off of work to make these repairs. I've been reading the trouble you have had with your wtc, I've had all of the same problems, just covered cracks with aluminum tape. Once the hose is back on the valve do I need to glue it? Thanks for the help..it's really appreciated! Been kinda on my own here.

[toppack]

If the tubing is long enough, I would cut off about a 1/8" of it, removing part of the stretched out end. That way it will fit tighter when you slide it back on. If it still does not fit tight, some CA glue may help, but it should fit tight enough without glue.
Does yours have the eyelet-collars over tubing to help keep them tight?
If not, it would be best to get some from David.

[shamrock]

replaced hose and eyelet . pressure tested so far so good .
will be doing first real test run today hopeing for the best
like the way you ran on /off switch will be next project on my gato
hate pulling top to turn on and off