Electronic-Switch (ES-1)

[toppack]

I connected up the ES-1 switch on the test-bench and it worked, but the circuit works differently than I expected.
I used a 5.volt power-supply for receiver and ES-1 power, and another power-suppy for Load power. The load consisted of 12.v light-bulb and a resistor in series with it, to limit current.
The problem is that I found that the load had about 10. volts applied, not what the load supply was adjusted to, which was 5.v also, so the circuit Adds the 2 power sources at the load, somehow.
I wanted to connect it that way so Snort pump would be drawing current directly from battery-pack not from receiver's 5.v regulator, but looks like I may not be able to do that since voltage at pump would be too high and it appears the pump would still be drawing current from receiver supply(or V-reg)?
I need to study my circuit more and figure out what's Goin' On. ;)

[toppack]

Yep, looks like there's No way to isolate the output of the ES-1, using another power source, so I'll need to isolate the 'input' power of the ES-1 by using a V-regulator circuit.
I can use one V-reg. @5.V to power the ES-1, the snort pump, and the E-switch for the video-camera but it needs to be at 8.4 volts to camera, so I'll need to find a different type E-switch circuit for it.(0ne that can be isolated at output) I've seen a circuit like that, which uses a mosfet at output, but just need to find a source. I may have to scounge up the parts and build it myself.

Hey, I might as well add a computer to automate everything, while I'm at it. :D

[toppack]

I've found someone online that sells a high-power 'mosfet' type E-switch components kit at a very good price, so I'll be trying it for camera power switch. :)
(It will handle up to 55.Volts at 5.Amps)

Isn't the Internet Amazing! :D

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I connected up the ES-1 switch on the test-bench and it worked, but the circuit works differently than I expected.
I used a 5.volt power-supply for receiver and ES-1 power, and another power-suppy for Load power. The load consisted of 12.v light-bulb and a resistor in series with it, to limit current.
The problem is that I found that the load had about 10. volts applied, not what the load supply was adjusted to, which was 5.v also, so the circuit Adds the 2 power sources at the load, somehow.
I wanted to connect it that way so Snort pump would be drawing current directly from battery-pack not from receiver's 5.v regulator, but looks like I may not be able to do that since voltage at pump would be too high and it appears the pump would still be drawing current from receiver supply(or V-reg)?
I need to study my circuit more and figure out what's Goin' On. ;)

disconnect the ES1's red wire from the leads J connector.

David,

[toppack]

I think you're saying 'disconnect 5.v from receiver to ES-1 switch', (and use the pumps power source to power the ES-1), correct?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I think you're saying 'disconnect 5.v from receiver to ES-1 switch', (and use the pumps power source to power the ES-1), correct?

Bingo! Only thing we want out of the receiver is the signal, no power.

David,

[toppack]

Sounds logical to me,
I'll try that tomorrow.
Thanks

[toppack]

It works as needed Now! :)
Thanks again.

[toppack]

I've found someone online that sells a high-power 'mosfet' type E-switch components kit at a very good price, so I'll be trying it for camera power switch. :)
(It will handle up to 55.Volts at 5.Amps)

I received the E-switch kit from 'Hansen Hobbies', assembled it and amazingly it worked the first try. :)
I desided to use it on the snort-pump, since it draws more current than camera, and use the ES-1 switch for the camera.
I'm going to mount it directly to the snort-pump, so I'll only need to run the receiver cable to aft compartment.
I also put a diode in parallel with the pump-motor to kill motor-electrical-noise.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I received the E-switch kit from 'Hansen Hobbies', assembled it and amazingly it worked the first try. :)
I desided to use it on the snort-pump, since it draws more current than camera, and use the ES-1 switch for the camera.
I'm going to mount it directly to the snort-pump, so I'll only need to run the receiver cable to aft compartment.
I also put a diode in parallel with the pump-motor to kill motor-electrical-noise.

Use two .01mF capacitors, one to each pole, both to motor case.

David,

[toppack]

Use two .01mF capacitors, one to each pole, both to motor case.

I've found that 2 capacitors connected that way is the best way if the motor is to be reversed (polarity changed, like propulsion motors are) but a diode is best with an inductive load such as motor, if the motor is to stay same polarity all the time, like the Snort-pump is. But caps will help if you don't have a good diode. :)
With a diode you do need to be sure to connect it the correct direction, of course, tho. ;)

[toppack]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Merriman
Thanks for the tip.

Hey, Mike: I went to the Hansen site and looked at the bigger (which is very small) of the two electronic switches, http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/onboardacc/mers/ and it looks just like what we need to put in the Caswell catalog.

We're not interested in the smaller ES, Mike, as that only feeds off the receiver bus.

Good work, Toppack.

David,

I received 2 of the preassembled MERS E-switches from Hansen and they are even Smaller than I thought. About 1/4 the size of the ES-1 switch. I checked one and it worked Great. Very simple to hook up to external power, since there's only 2 wires, (plus receiver wires).
It's so small, it's hard to beleave it can handle as Much Power as it's supposed to, but I put a high-current motor on it, at 12.volts, with No Problems.
It even has a microscopic slide-switch to reverse direction of transmitter activation (on/off) and an LED, lite for On.

[toppack]

I forgot to mention that the Hansen E-switches have a diode provided with them, for inductive-load-protection. :)

[toppack]

I was curious to learn if this type switch (mers) may be used in place of an external toggle type power switch presently used to power up the sub driver electronics???

No, Sorry, the E-switches (mers) get their power from the BEC in the speed-control and the signal that activates it comes from the receiver, so those have to be powered up first, by external-switch, that connects the battery to speed-control, which provides power for everything, (unless there is a 2nd battery installed somewhere, such as a camera-pod).

[Anuci]

Thank you, I fully understand now. Al,