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He Who Shall Not Be Named · 11-24-2010, 11:07 PM

Slick! I assume that's a gear-pump that will permit blow-by when the pistons bottom out? Lots of applications here.

David,

AQUASUB · 11-24-2010, 09:21 PM

This video shows the basic operation of the mini hydraulics ,notice how proportional the control is, no jerking and its very strong in both directions, so much that a 8 amph battery can be easily lifted.

The syringes bottom out stopping the other from moving any more, that is the simplicity of it, no pressure switches or electronics needed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2F3FSeamf1c

AQUASUB · 11-23-2010, 08:44 PM

Captains I have a rather interesting and funny announcement to make and kind of fitting for this time of year.
Remember I was experimenting with different fluids for the hydraulic systems, one that would not bind the syringes or harm the silicone tubing or pump and was not toxic, expensive or hard to get.
Well the other day I had a deep fried turkey served up by my wife and friends and while I was enjoying it I had a thought, what about the oil this bird is in, could it possibly do the trick, would it have all of those properties I am seeking?

So I made a test run of several days so far and to my delight it works like a charm,no ill effects so far,the pump works even smother and stronger than before as it is super lubed and will post more findings.
The oil is Peanut Oil and turkey fat, I will try without the turkey fat later.
So my hydraulics smell like oil roasted turkey and that's funny!
If any of you guys are setting up or are using my system you might want to save that oil from Thanks giving:wink:

I will post another video of just how strong and fully proportional this system is you will be amazed as I am.
At slow speed the large syringe can not be held from extending by hand! It can easily lift a 5 amp lead acid battery.

Think about the possibilities, hear is the ultimate linear servo,wet ready or dry,can be made to virtually any dimension with simple syringes and silicon tubing or equivalent and a ESC or not, amazing does it no justice with no special electronics anyone can make it happen!

On the drawing boards hear at the Yard I have a sub that will have hydraulic arms that actually work by hydraulics and possibly the dive planes and rudder, now that I have found the right fluid things are really looking up.:biggrin:

Dave Amur Sub Yard

AQUASUB · 11-15-2010, 10:13 PM

A video of the finished systems ,sorry for the poor video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdkzTfXt5-o

AQUASUB · 11-09-2010, 08:36 PM

In case it was not posted with more details, this is the range of Volvos it will fit and you need to look for on Ebay or at Napa Auto Parts.
You will have to ask for the less expensive one that is around 8.00$. I haven't tried their other one for $25.00 or so, but probably not too much difference.
You can also get a VDO brand one, but they cost much more and have brass gears and same motor. I like them a lot and get them second hand on Ebay.
The 8.00$ ones are good also. They feature a Derlin or Nylon gears and they wear well, but try to run them as wet as possible which is not a problem in this hydraulic system.

I thought I might mention that there are several small gear pumps out there used for washer pumps, but this one stood up the best, no overheating or radio interference and they can be easily sealed for wet submerged running, keeping them even cooler and out of the casing.

As one sees my approach to engineering a sub, especially the larger ones, you will see that I like to keep it simple and rugged so that the systems and components will endure and function properly in the hostile environment of the pond. Even the wire I use is marine grade 10 or 16 gauge soldered hard wiring, which is sealed with Goop. I have found over the years this holds up exceptionally well to seal out the moisture that is very pervasive. Some like to use Silicone sealers and adhesives,I did also until I found Goop, the fantastic sealer adhesive that stays flexible yet hard, dries in a short time, is clear, cheap and will stick to just about anything. Some say it is hard to remove, not as bad as Epoxy by far and it "peals" very cleanly. No need to grind it off or like Silicone rub it off. Silicone does not keep out moisture 100% over time it will come unstuck and let in moisture or worse.
I have seen on many casings where silicone was employed on main electrical leads that pass into the casing that over a short period of time leaks developed and electrolysis was occurring, not so with Goop.
Goop is very similar to what is used in the Navy and ROVs electrical cannon plug connectors, where the wiring is sealed with a clear Goop like substance, probably the same stuff.

So in my opinion get rid of the silicone and reseal it with Goop it also comes in a Marine form that has UV protection though I have never seen any difference. They are all great products and I would be at a great loss without it!

Dave