Revell type VIIC/41 hulls warped?

[pjdog]

Started the type VIIC /41 today. I was really surprised to find that the hull haves are really warped. Bad. They even seem to be different lengths. After punching out the holes in the hull I fit the deck in place and put lots of rubber bands around it to see if it will correct itself?

Anyone else have this Revell type VII problem?

Jack

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Started the type VIIC /41 today. I was really surprised to find that the hull haves are really warped. Bad. They even seem to be different lengths. After punching out the holes in the hull I fit the deck in place and put lots of rubber bands around it to see if it will correct itself?

Anyone else have this Revell type VII problem?

Jack

I found (and this works to our advantage) that when assembled, the right and left halves of the hull tightly compress the deck piece. Is that what you mean? Or, is the 'warp' asymmetrical?

David,

[pjdog]

asymmetrical? Collage word. It's warped such that the bottom of the hulls are 2 maybe 3 inches out from one another. Also when squeezing the hull bottoms together the bow doesn't touch and is high the stern is low? what is that? I taped it and rubber band the damn thing together. Think it will eventually come together close enough to glue.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

asymmetrical? Collage word. It's warped such that the bottom of the hulls are 2 maybe 3 inches out from one another. Also when squeezing the hull bottoms together the bow doesn't touch and is high the stern is low? what is that? I taped it and rubber band the damn thing together. Think it will eventually come together close enough to glue.

unequal distortion of the right and left hull halves. Anyway ...

The gaps resulting from hull assembly with your kit is much more extreme than what I've seen with the three kits I've assembled.

David,

[Slats]

Hey Jack of you got some photos of this?
J

[pjdog]

I've had the hull taped and rubber banded most the day. It seems to have done some realignment. However I'm still not to happy about this kit. The first type VII I got was perfect. Lined up dead on. The Revell Gato was even better because of the stronger plastic in the Gato. But this one leaves a little bit to be desired.

The gap between the hulls on the bottom is now right at 1 1/2 inches. Some closer. With the stern taped together now the bow is still off enough that you can't get the alignment pin to fit. It seems that the left (port) side is shorter than the right (starboard). When you force the bow alignment pin in it causes the bottom of the hull further apart?

I'll quit crying. I'm sure I'm not the first plastic model builder that got a model a little off. That's why there's glue, tape and rubber bands. If I glue it and tape it a let it sit over night I guess it will be OK. I was just wondering if this is normal thing. And it's all part of the challenge. Other wise we'd be getting or subs built by David and just pay the dollars to him.

See the attached pictures.

Jack

[Albion]

certainly doesnt look great, but should be recoverable if you want to

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

It'll work. Just follow Mr. Caswell's methodology as you glue the two hull halves together. Don't glue the deck to the hull!!!!!

David,

[pjdog]

It's the right hull that's warped. Left side is ok. I noticed last night after removing tape and rubber bands and placing the hull half's on their sides that the right sides bow and stern didn't both touch the bench top. Both hull bottoms are about the same distance apart. I think that's normal. Anyway I taped it flat. See what happens. Can always apply a little heat with the hair dryer.

Jack

[red_noir]

hey Jack how did it work out for you? I noticed today that one side of my hull is warped too !

Chuck

[pjdog]

Chuck:

I finally got the type VIIC/41 hull together. It was a real fight. I think we would have to call it a draw. 1 for me 1 for Revell type VII hull. It lines up from the bow to the propeller shafts. Then takes a turn to port. The stern is off a little. I like to never got the stern welded together. Finally I wrapped it in rubbers bands then put a metal clamp on it for the night. I’m going to have to trim the deck at the stern to get it to mate up. Think the next boat (1/72 type II) I’ll look at before I buy it. Pictures in my album of the build under third submarine.

How did you come out with yours?

Jack

[red_noir]

I was initially quite worried ! the stern on my boat lined up nicely so when it came time to join the hull half's today that where I began. using clamps and liquid modeling cement I start there at the back and moved fwd.

I began to run into trouble at the bow planes, so what I did was tack certain small sections together with CA until it all lined up and then went over it all with model cement.

all in all Im very pleased. I have a small gap at the bow but Im gonna fill it in with squadron green putty ! Im enjoying my build very much and am already thinking about a second build when caswell has there Torpeodo kits avaliable for this sub!

Chuck

[ADDINGTON]

While Squadron green putty is fine for static display, I have heard to stay away from it if your model is to be waterborne.
When building styrene hulls for R/C, what filler/putty has been best for other folks out there?
Is Evercoat viable?

[KevinMc]

I used Evercoat to modify the aft casing of my KILO from an 877 to a 636 type (which changes the aft sloped deck to a step - I can grab photos if anyone's really interested...) and it's held up magnificently.

[pjdog]

Always interested in photos. Show them.

David Merriman saw the green stuff and had a stroke. He says that 'Nitro-Stan glazing putty' is the stuff to use. You can get it at the local automotive paint supplier shop. It's much easier to work with.

jack