Scaleships Akula II

[ConcreteTurtle]

Thanks for the advice guys,

I picked up some 6mm polycarbonate sheet today to make the ribs from, it should be easier to work and a bit denser than the 7mm ply so that should help.

I'll try to place the sub-driver top at the waterline, but leave some space for ballasting underneath as well.

Also my battery WTC, ADF and MERS switch turned up in the post, thanks to caswellplating for the quick turn around.

Now it's just down to me getting some quality time at the workbench.

Cheers all, I'll keep you all updated
CT.

[Nuke Power]

She will go together so quickly you wont know what happened! Now why not show some pics of all that gear in the boat.

[ConcreteTurtle]

Thanks for the encouragement Kevin,
I sure hope it goes together nice and easy.



Here are the WTCs in the hull, the battery WTC will get trimmed down once my batteries arrive, so to make ballasting a bit easier.
This position gives me enough room to fit 2 ribs between the lower limber holes under the sub driver, and another one forward under the battery WTC.
As for vertical positioning, if I put the top of the ballast task at the water line, I'll have about 10mm between the bottom of the driver and the hull.



I also played around with the new snort tubing I bought from caswell. I've discovered that the tubing fits snugly over some 1/16" brass tube. This kills 2 birds with one stone, gives an easy connection through the aft bulkhead and also plugs up the 2 unused rod seals. If I decide to add another control rod down the track I can always move snort holes elsewhere.

I drew out a system diagram for the WTC stuff, and it sure looks like there's going to be some tetris involved to fit everything in there. The space between the middle bulkhead and the tray for example, is just big enough to fit my mtroniks ESC. I'm sure it was designed that way of course, right Mr. Merriman? :)



My Mk1 surface gauge was a success, so i've been able to mark out the rest of the grille locations on the hulls as well.



I've cut out the holes behind the upper grilles, I don't think much air will get out of these tiny gaps but they'll look right at least.


So that's where I'm up to, once I get my jigsaw working again, I'll cut out some polycarbonate rib profiles and work out how I'm going to rig the control rods to the planes and rudders.

Thanks for following along with me here, and all the advice. It's always welcome.

CT.

[Nuke Power]

Well you can either make 2 yoke arms with two control rods or you can go with 4 small ones that connect through a Y. Course these are not the only options out there but it is how I figured it out the first time around.