Skipjack

[SSN SonarTech]

Still Dry. Small leak in the roof but alls well. Glad storm stayed to the East

[SSN SonarTech]

Yea David still dry. Had leak in roof however so one wall not so dry. Glad the storm stayed to the east.

[trout]

Hi Steve,

Tom (trout) had the same issue see link and go to post 20.

http://forum.sub-driver.com/forum/builder-threads/2527-moebius-revell-skipjack-build

I think it turned out ok when he made the cut iwo the stern.

Tom can you confirm?

Grtz,
Bart

It came out fine, Bart. The metal glaze filler was my friend.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You still dry, Steve? We're still breathing air ... thank goodness!

M

[SSN SonarTech]

Thanks Bart good articles

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Good catch on the old seam-filling article, Bart. Thanks.

M

[bwi 971]

Hi Steve,

Tom (trout) had the same issue see link and go to post 20.

http://forum.sub-driver.com/forum/builder-threads/2527-moebius-revell-skipjack-build

I think it turned out ok when he made the cut iwo the stern.

Tom can you confirm?



You can also find information in the link ‘making up the kerf’ David explains different ways to solve this problem.

http://forum.sub-driver.com/forum/general-topics/107694-making-up-the-kerf

Grtz,
Bart

[SSN SonarTech]

Have made some progress..Slowed a little due to the weather and a roof leak. As the one photo shows with the hull together I still have a little gap. Any ideas on how to correct this are very welcome. I could not be doing this without all the great threads people have posted on the building of their skipjacks. I thank you again

[SSN SonarTech]

Thanks Albion

[Albion]

If you need to ensure some float and don't have access to feeler gauges, then a cigarette paper works well or failing that a piece of newspaper. Push prop hub up against bearing, place paper between coupler and the other bearing, hold the assembly snug, but not so tight that paper can't be pulled out. Tighten grub screw, remove paper. Instant float., the poor man method.

At the universal coupler end (forward) shorten the shaft a bit and extend the shaft set-screw flat as well. With both thrust washers in place, there should be a .003-.005" gap.

M

[SSN SonarTech]

Thanks mine is muench9@cox.net

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David I sent you my e-mail after I got home from your shop on Saturday, Was looking for the info on the event in North Carolina- tried to send a visitor message but it will not let me. Thanks for the visit and all the help you provided.

The e-mail did not get through. Tell you what, I'll post the N.C. 1/96 model run thread here so you and anyone nearby can consider making the event early next month: http://www.wmunderway.8m.com/cgi/yab...num=1422916002

It was a pleasure hooking up with you, Steve.

My e-mail address is, dmeriman@aol.com

David

[SSN SonarTech]

David I sent you my e-mail after I got home from your shop on Saturday, Was looking for the info on the event in North Carolina- tried to send a visitor message but it will not let me. Thanks for the visit and all the help you provided.

[SSN SonarTech]

I fixed the stern planes. First time ever using a Tap. Thank you David!!!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

It appears to me there too much of a gap. I think I should extend the flat to make it more snug

At the universal coupler end (forward) shorten the shaft a bit and extend the shaft set-screw flat as well. With both thrust washers in place, there should be a .003-.005" gap.

M