You made caddy for your screeding blades?!!!!.... And I thought I was anal!
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Skipjack
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Well hull done enough for now. Will make it pretty after I make it work. Coat of Primer to show imperfections that will need to be fixed later. Gaps in hull fixed better than I thought they would. Lots of sanding that's for sure. Now on the heart of the beast! The SAS have David's instructions and wiring diagram plus many fine builder threads wish me luck
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Your grit size is good. I go to 600 when I wet sand it for finishing, but looks like you got it solved. Would you take a picture of the tabs you mentioned about, I am not sure I am clear on what you did.
Thank you!
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Making progress. Due to size of gap I put a backing on the worse area, then built up the gap with plastic. The came my first attempt with Evercoat. Getting better at get right portion of hardner to mix. Easy to work with than I thought. Still more to go. I hate sanding . Am using 220, then 400 grit sandpaper is this too much?
Well back to sanding. I like building this more each day. Get this done and on to electronics! Cut off in picture but I put small tabs at the rear of the top hull section to help with the bowing at rear. It worked well
Last edited by SSN SonarTech; 10-28-2015, 03:37 PM.Leave a comment:
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Yes, backing off on the hardener will slow the cure time. When I mix my Overcoat, I do it on a piece of tempered glass I got from an old small office fridge no longer working. It sure helps mixing the two parts together. A video I saw said keeping it thinner on the mixing board/glass will also help slow the curing time. I am not sure if it did for me, but I did not run side by side tests either.
Yes, let the Evercoat dry then I put thin CA on a couple of times, while rough sanding, if I saw areas beginning to separate from the hull, it would get CA applied and then the other time is once finished sanding to seal and strengthen. You may need to do a final sanding, but CA soaks in pretty deep. I have put CA over the whole application only if I was neat in applying Evercoat. If I was sloppy, I would sand down a majority of it before adding CA.Leave a comment:
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Could you explain using the CA. do you mean put the CA on after Evercoat is dry and sanded? I will post pictures shortly but it coming alone better than I expected. Lot happier now. Was a little worried about the gap. Boy Evercoat does not give you a lot of time work with it. I followed the directions but think I might of had too much hardener. with back off some. But results are good so far.Leave a comment:
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I did not do this, but seeing it now, you might just take a strip of styrene and glue it in as a part of the filler using your liquid glue. Then add Evercoat. Adding a backing is a good idea. The Evercoat can be brittle and come off the edge. That is why David recommended using CA to wet the filler and harden it and I followed his advice. Worked great.Leave a comment:
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Need some advice. The gap is the aft hull is rather large now that it is all assembled and screwed down. I have read all the advice on filling the gap and I think I am going to try building up the evercoat and using a razor to get smooth edge as is hardens. But due to the size of the gap on both sided should I possible back it up on the inside of the hull with strip of thin PLASTRUCT. a bit frustrating but I am not going to let this kick my butt/ any advice is welcome . Top hull is bowed out a bit.
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Picture of progress being made. Grinding down the guide pins made hull align just fine
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in greenman407's post #366 of his skipjack build http://forum.sub-driver.com/forum/bu...ck-1-72/page25 . It show where he put the forward piece of the preformed foam kit. It looks like this would block the 1st 2 pairs of MBT vents. Do you just drill the vents on thru the foam after it is in place or ?
Thanks Steve
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