Revell 1/72 Skipjack class USS Shark SSN591

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Would a new vent valve assembly help?

    Re-read the ADF set-up instructions. I bet you're pointing the SD the wrong way during the 'orientation' step.

    M

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  • HvyCGN9
    replied
    Nope disregard previous post... SD still leaks at the vent valve, it works fine for one or two cycles then refuses to maintain a seal. Adjusting the trim has no effect as any further and the air pump kicks in. I have no idea at this point, can't even attempt to trim it properly till I can get it to sorted.

    Bruce

    PS the ADF2 works great as a failsafe.....just not doing so well as the leveller! its working exactly the opposite of how it should!! (bow of sub angles up and Adf2 gives it more UP! and vice versa) tried reversing servo on tx but no joy
    Last edited by HvyCGN9; 05-21-2014, 08:54 AM.

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  • HvyCGN9
    replied
    Got some testing done today and managed to sort out the slow air leak from the main ballast vent valve. Ended up (after playing around with numerous neutral point settings) taking the valve off adjusting the screw that presses the valve closed and resealing the valve....I think the air was exiting from around the silicon seal on the fwd side that the hinge end of the rubber valve is. Waited a couple of hours for the silicon to cure then did a series of dive tests and it seems to be right now. Now I just need to trim the beast as she sits aft down(with lower rudder on the bottom of the tub).....

    Bruce

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  • HvyCGN9
    replied
    Originally posted by greenman407
    Nice looking boat Bruce. I see that you have paint on yours. Looks Good. I chose to get my boat operational first and work the bugs out first on mine. Now that ,thats done Im trying to get paint on it. I just hope that mine looks as good as yours. Keep us up to date.
    Thanks mate! I always paint before getting my models wet...once I am happy with how she runs I will put the decals on and weather her abit. My simple periscope setup seems to work ok, just need to paint tops of scopes and apply a small amount of grease or polish on the tubes so they slide freely.

    Can't do any testing tonight got a clubmeeting to run off to shortly...

    Cheers Bruce

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  • greenman407
    replied
    Nice looking boat Bruce. I see that you have paint on yours. Looks Good. I chose to get my boat operational first and work the bugs out first on mine. Now that ,thats done Im trying to get paint on it. I just hope that mine looks as good as yours. Keep us up to date.

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  • HvyCGN9
    replied
    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named
    nice !! Will order one when payday rolls around later this week!!

    Cheers Bruce

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Here ya go ....



    M

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  • HvyCGN9
    replied
    Did some more tank testing tonight.... Sailplane linkage connects up nicely during hull closure and moves freely without disconnecting. Having a similar problem to what Tom had with air escaping from SD vent will need to play around with it another night Tx battery is flat again...grrrr (I am thinking tx nimh battery is needing replacement it doesn't seem to last very long),

    Adjusted rudder end points so the rudder whitemetal fitting doesn't rub on prop shaft when hard over.....then took it all apart to grease prop shaft!

    some pix shortly...

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ID:	91384did some plumbing...Click image for larger version

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ID:	91385Added a bit of foam to base of attack scopes(seems to work ok)Click image for larger version

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ID:	91386post test drip drying....

    Cheers Bruce
    Last edited by HvyCGN9; 05-13-2014, 08:36 AM. Reason: added pix

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  • redboat219
    replied
    Where are the photos?

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  • HvyCGN9
    replied
    I finally got the sailplane linkage made up and functioning (after some trial and error...), just need to do some end point adjustments in the Tx to limit maximum travel. Will do some more Ballast checks/adjustments tomorrow night. Also need to pull rudder planes out so I can grease the prop shaft....

    Here are some pix...
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    made up a couple of guide tubes for the control rod fwd one is some 1/8 styrene tube and aft one is some 5/16 tube sufficient to allow some slack so the aft klick ons engage but prevents the linkage from moving sideways, and "kinking" at the point of contact between the magnets.

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    the top linkage at SD end (note the SD wiring has got messy since the BEC drama....)

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    With the scopes on. I am still pondering how to get em ta raise/lower without interfering with SAS float.

    Bruce
    Last edited by HvyCGN9; 05-06-2014, 05:11 PM. Reason: fix pix

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    What is this, the second reel of Mystery Men????

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  • alad61
    replied
    Goodo Bruce...

    See Mark, I knew, that you knew, that I knew what you knew, so... now I know :)

    BTW... Who's on first??

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  • greenman407
    replied
    Alec, I know that you know that what you know is right. But how did you know that I knew that? ......LOL

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  • HvyCGN9
    replied
    Thx Guys,

    I might have accidentally reversed the channel when I was changing stuff around in the Tx menu......the MX22 menu is loads different to the 9x Turnigy I use on the surface fleet!!

    Back to making up the sailplane linkage and will not be using the magnetic switch I mentioned in an earlier post just yet it as it is the wrong type for what I wanted (when magnet is taken away its off not on)

    Cheers Bruce

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  • alad61
    replied
    Thats true Mark the adf can be positioned virtually any way on a three way axis. What I should have explained is that once you set the orientation and then the pitch settings you can't reposition the adf as you run the risk of it reading the boats pitch in reverse. So that when the bow points down the adf thinks that it is surfacing so it throws the planes to level the bow down but it is really just diving the boat harder. So reversing the servo in that instance dosn't make any differance.

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