1/35 scale type 23

[greenman407]

Today I did a little bit to get her ready for tomorrows outing. I installed the prop and adjusted the balky old Subtek APC-4. Its really touchy when it comes to setting level using the potentiometer on the circuit board. It wants to be set everywhere else except nuetral. I think I finally found the narrow sweetspot. If its not just right Im afraid that it wont work right. The ADF2 is much easier. The one good thing I can say about it is that you have a potentiometer to adjust sensitivity too.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Good study on the various alloy ratios to bronze, Mark. And your observations about oxidation is useful too.

M

[greenman407]

The trim tape under the oring made a big difference. I needed a hammer and a block of wood to get it started back into the Subdriver. Its all cinched up now awaiting the bathtub test. I have an appointment with the pond on wednesday, so this ,I hope will do her.

[greenman407]

There are many kinds of Bronzes. Phosphor bronze, silicone bronze,Nibral(nickel aluminum bronze),plastic bronze, architectural bronze,aluminum bronze all with varying percentages. Propellors made during the 20th century are reported to be Alpha Bronze(88% cooper 12% tin). They start out life ,bright and shiny, but as a layer of Oxides build up on the outside surface, it begins to darken into a flat coffee or chocolate color. I have quite a few Beryllium copper propellers for race boats, made by Octura propellers and they are a similar color.

[greenman407]

Heres a couple of bronze props. Im trying to match the color. In the light and out of the light.

[greenman407]

Still working on getting the prop painted. Looks like itll be Wednesday for the pond test.

[greenman407]

The leak that I had in the dry section of the Subdriver was greatly reduced but is still there. Another session in the tub with an air hose plugged into it on one end and me huffing and puffing on the other end, revealed some seepage past the oring on the ballast tank bulkhead. When you do that, keep in mind two things. First, keep a finger or two over the motor bulkhead so that it doesnt blow off while you are blowing into the hose. Second, to see if the ballast tank bulkhead is leaking, you have to flood the ballast tank to see if any air is being pushed into the ballast tank while you are blowing into the hose. Tomorrow Ill pull it out again and get four or five wraps of trim tape down into the bottom of the oring groove. Thatll probably wrap that up.
Also , I was having problems with air buildup under the forward deck. So, I cut the foam in half and moved it over to the edges and drilled some escape holes down the middle. Since the decking planks will eventually go on there to cover them up, Im not too worried about what it looks like. Because there is an odd seem contour at the joint air can shoot right past the holes you drill. Therefore I irrigated the holes. In other words I chamfered the holes and also, using the edge of a Dremel cutoff wheel, I opened a clear path to the holes from both sides.

[greenman407]

Thank you sir!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You IDIOT!!!!!

I'll put a replacement in your upcoming C.A.R.E. package.

M

[greenman407]

OK , so after I got the prop electroplated for the second time, I was waiting for the deposited bronze to darken. At this point it was still fresh and a light tan in color. I dont know how long it was going to take but it all became a moot point. I accidentally dropped the prop without realizing it. I then stepped on it, bending one blade real good. After the initialOHHHHHHHHHHH,
NNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!.......OOHHHH CRUUUMMMMSSS!!! I picked up a pair of needle nose pliers and restored the shape, cant tell that it ever happened.......................except............. ...........the plating was gone at the point of the bend. What should I do? Wait for another bottle of the bronze. Oh Nopey No. I went down to the local Wallymart and bought a can of Rustoleum "French Roast" in a spray can. A new color for them I believe. I pickled the prop in boiling Vinegar and then cleaned it in "Lacquer Thinner" The paint color looks like chocholate. Tomorrow Ill hit it with Matte clear and it will be perfect. Pictures tomorrow.

[greenman407]

I took the liberty to install an extra drive shaft seal on the outside. Two has to be better than one, even though the first one was not leaking. I left a little room between the brass dogbone coupler and the seal so that I could get a little oil in thar. Heres the new ballast tank servo in place. Should have it at the pond on Monday for testing.

[greenman407]

Nope, not the shaft seal. It was from a hole I cut in the bulkhead to bring a power cord in. I sealed around it with silicone seal, but it leaked anyway. However, water got in and ruined one of those little blue servos. since I already had one of them fail for reasons unknown I decided to buy a real good one. That ballast servo is all important. If it fails ............Im stuck. The new micro servo is on the way. In the meentime, today I put the second coat of the electroplating job on the prop. After the bronze plating turns a little darker in a couple of days Ill paint over it for protection using Minwax clear gloss. That should be about right.

[greenman407]

Went to trim it today and found that I needed to increase the weight in the bottom of the hull. I had three ounces in it and needed to go to at least 7 ounces. As I was working on this I realized that water was getting into my heavy mod Subdriver from parts unknown. Probably the prop shaft seal, but to save me some work figuring it out, I installed a equalization valve in the bulkhead, like there was supposed to be in the first place. Tomorrow Ill put a hose on it and remove the valve core and blow in it to see where my water leak is coming from.

[greenman407]

A few more mods to keep bubbles from building up in the conning tower. I didnt want to take out too much material and weaken the upper portion of the hull. Afterall, its got a lot of tabs on it to help hold and pull everything together, donchano. I also drilled a bunch more holes in the lower platform of the Conning tower too. Also , the Garage Sale/3"/2&1/2"/mark 1/heavy mod/ Subdriver is all together and ready for the bathtub. The gas system has been tested today and all is well with it. Tomorrow I should have the whole sub in the tub for some trim work.

[crazygary]

Maybe those crystals should have been UMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM-1??

Hey, Lepton folks!! Pleeze fix dis here!!!!

CG