1/35 scale type 23
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HA! Ive been eating raw chocolate chip cookie dough all day. Does that tell you anything?......................................Jus t smile and nod.Leave a comment:
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The only thing I've read about the yellow band around the sail was that it meant 'training'. Don't know about the white equatorial band above the waterline -- just positing an idea.Im sorry, Im showing my ignorance. I thought that the equatorial band as you call it atop the waterline was just a different style training band. The color of it is not marked on the drawing that comes with the model. If you are saying that its white..........then White it will be. I think it would look "Smashing" if it was yellow.
Von?
Oh, and that WTC of yours: Tell me. When that monster came to life and the gurney restraining straps started to pop. Right after it snarled at you. Did you scream, "It's ALIVE!!!!"
("Wait! ... I was going to make espresso")
MLeave a comment:
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Im sorry, Im showing my ignorance. I thought that the equatorial band as you call it atop the waterline was just a different style training band. The color of it is not marked on the drawing that comes with the model. If you are saying that its white..........then White it will be. I think it would look "Smashing" if it was yellow.Leave a comment:
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Here we have the Propel tank siliconed into the endcap. I really like Daves departure from the normal style of Tank. Really cool!Leave a comment:
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GENTLEMEN........................and I use the term loosely. Take note............if you will ,of todays progress on this boat. If youll recall, the motor bulkhead is a conglomeration of a o-ring flange from a 2&1/2" cylinder and a gearbox, motor and housing from a 3" Albacore WTC, from the D&E era. The only way I could think of attaching alluminum sheet to build the servo trays was to cut out flat sheets 1&1/2" wide by 8" long and bend a radius in one end of them. That end would go up inside the bulkhead and be cross bolted there. Then equipment trays would be attached between them.Leave a comment:
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The band around the sail, yellow. Denoting, 'training'.
I'm talking about that white equatorial band atop the waterline.
Are we all on the same page here?
MLeave a comment:
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And I thought we were all in agreement from previously presented photographs that they were never white, always Yellow?Leave a comment:
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Well, try this:
The 23's operated in coastal waters, pretty much in areas where the axis had air superiority. Maybe the white band was an ID marking, like the white Allied 'invasion stripes' painted to the wings and fuselage of 'friendly' aircraft in order to prevent friendly fire from the air or ground. A poor man's IFF maybe?
MLeave a comment:
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Hm, white striping on a sub that wants to be undetected from above, the North Sea not clear, but not trouble water enough to conceil a sub running near the surface on persocope depth, most Uboats painted their decks later darkgrey to obtain better camouflage.
Maybe it should do the trick while running on surface, kind of false wave like the Bismarck had, just to soften up the contours of the boat.
Manfred.Last edited by MFR1964; 03-25-2014, 03:06 PM.Leave a comment:
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Because the angle of the hull is changing from the front to the rear, curving over the top, its probably the same width stripe all the way back.Leave a comment:
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Manfred, thanks sir. However, I dont think that its representing the scum line because, If you look at it, it tapers from a wide stripe in the bow and narrows perfectly and consistantly all the way back to a point in the rear. It must be a painted stripe. RIGHT?? The other drawings of paint schemes that come with the model dont have this line painted on them. If it was a scum line then all the drawings would have it. IMOLeave a comment:
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Albion, using the old subdriver as a guide I stuck a drill bit in the existing hole at a right angle to the subdriver, the way you would naturally drill a hole in it yourself. I then put a mark off to the side of it on both holes, then measured the distance center to center between them. I then transfered those marks to the new subdriver, and using a 1/16" drill bit , I drilled mine. Then with the drill bit spinning in the hole I changed the angle of the drill to the subdriver, bringing it in line with the direction that the rod was going to go thru. Thus using the drill bit to cut the hole at the odd angle that you need it.Leave a comment:
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Redboat, yes the hull was a little warped, everything didnt quite jam up nice like I wanted it. I would have poured epoxy down there anyway though.Leave a comment:
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