Wow!! Pretty sweet setup greenman407!!
You make this "linkage thing" look like a "no brainer"!!
Fantastic "job" there!
And, ya really have to love them, thar magnets!!
Way to go, Ma Nature!!!!
CG
1/35 scale type 23
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One more picture. This time it contains the rudder linkage. You cant tell from the picture but Im using Klikons on all three control surfaces. As far as those magnets go, Im using double magnets. Thats it. Tomorrow I will glue the two halves together with model airplane glue., with rubber bands to hold things together, leaving the control surfaces rods in place.Leave a comment:
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Here we go with todays pitiful little bit of work.As you can see, Im not satisfied with one bellcrank, Ive got to have two of them. Reason being the relatively great vertical distance between the rudder linkage and the rear planes linkage. Since we are using 1/16" brass wire(spindly) there will be too much flex for my liking. This way the control inputs can be straight on for the most part. Excepting of course the bow planes which are more towards the middle of the boat as respects the vertical, therefore requiring a 45 degree bend to get it there.
Also since we are a little bit cramped for room Ive had to cut the Klikons overall length down to get them in there and still have room for operational control. So, as you can see ,the first bellcrank is for the bow planes and the second one is for the stern planes. With care, enough room can be found, although it is a bit tight. Oh and by the way, the drive shaft is the old Albacore shaft that I made up for the original Subtek kit. After I modified the Albacore to be "DUOPROP" It would no longer fit. So....waste not what not....I saved it for a future day. Today was the day, perfect length.Last edited by greenman407; 03-08-2014, 05:24 PM.Leave a comment:
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Thanks, tomorrow we will see what can be done about the stern control surfaces before we button it up for the next stage.Leave a comment:
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Nice linkage, greenman407!!
Amazing what can be done when you have a substantial amount of available
"real estate"! Super clean installation!!
She's right, Mate!!Leave a comment:
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Thanks Tom. Since the Seaview is stalled for the moment, I pulled this off the shelf. For the front planes, here is the linkage in place.Leave a comment:
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Mark, really creative work. I like the way you are running the pushrod through the wtc holders. Should be a clean looking install!Leave a comment:
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A little bit of for-thought might have saved me from this. If I had thought about it ,I could have drilled these holes in before I had glued in these battery WTC supports. Oh well, a extra short drill bit and a right angle drill attachment saved the day. These holes are for the linkage that will operate the bow planes. I want it all installed before I glue the halves together and work on cutting out the top. In the next picture I am sizing up the location and all the particulars for the belcrank mech. for the afformentioned bow planes.Leave a comment:
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I want to get everything sorted out first as to cyl. locations and control surface linkages installed, before gluing the halves together. That way I dont have to fiddle with trying to do that with my hand sticking thru the access hatch that I will cut in later. Its easier to do it now. Here you will notice that the ballast endcap with gas cyl. protruding is going to eat up too much space. So, Im going to turn that copper vessel around and let the long end stick into the cylinder. All I have to do is seal up the discharge line on the one end and move it to the other end. Since the ballast tank is going to be 7" long , that copper vessel might not be enough. If thats the case, we will make a bigger one. We will try this one first. If the ballast tank is too big we can either cut the cylinder down and make it shorter or we can shrink the effective size of the ballast tank by putting a round piece of foam inside the ballast tank, reducing its volume.
Last edited by greenman407; 02-11-2014, 10:19 PM.Leave a comment:
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Here we go with a wee bit or two. I ordered a length of the 2&1/2" tube and finally got the nerve to cut it into the two pieces that I needed. One for the battery WTC and one for the Ballast and drive WTC. I got the two endcaps on but I need , of course, to install the ballast bulkhead with vent valve and mechanism.Also ,I need to make the servo and equipment trays as well. I bought some alluminum sheet metal from the hobby store and I have a few ideas as to how Im going to do it.Leave a comment:
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Because my Subdriver is going to be two piece, I needed 4 extra Subdriver holders. So I made them out of some 1/4" Poplar that I had lying around. After coating with Polyurethane, they will be glued in as well. Here you can see the projected rough fit of the unit. From this it would appear that the rudder will be driven from the top right(camera view) push rod seal. The Rear planes from the next in line to the left and the front drive planes will be operated via a belcrank mech. from the left one. I mapped out a line 1/2" over from center on the port side Subdriver holders where a hole will be drilled for running the pushrod forward for the planes. Because of the length of the run I will probably reinforce it with a piece of brass tube for the trip forward. Just thinking outloud.Leave a comment:
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Prop shaft bearing. First clean out the mounting area with your Dremel and test the fit. Youll find that it will only go in one way and fit.Leave a comment:
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Sorry about all the extra pictures. Something is WACKY.Last edited by greenman407; 02-06-2014, 05:48 PM.Leave a comment:
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Pictures wont post tonight using either Google Chrome or Microsoft. Ill try again tomorrow.Leave a comment:
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