32nd Parallel's Type XXIII

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  • trout
    replied
    Apparently you cannot turn of the signal. It is built into the RX. All that can be done is set it. The other caution is there is not a delay in the signal lost, it is instantaneous. It has been 5 years since playing with this, but if I remember correctly, you attach a battery to the RX (aa pack or NiMh pack or regulated power or your power while in the sub) with the TX off (red LED will flash on the RX, the instructions say 16 seconds. I do not remember) . Then move your TX sticks and all your controls on the TX to the positions you want when signal is lost, hold them in that position then without letting go, turn on TX. Once the two communicate, it is set.

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  • cliffhanger67
    replied
    Originally posted by trout
    I found the instructions on how to do it.
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]20019[/ATTACH]
    Not sure I understand this instruction. So what should be the input to disable or command for fail safe desired. The example is the one to use? Sorry, not very savy at this. Thanks.

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  • trout
    replied
    Originally posted by MFR1964
    Hmmmmm, you're in trouble Tom, nothing is worse when David wants to hug and starts saying sweet words.


    Manfred.
    I am not too worried, I figure it was the fumes he has been sniffing. Makes one delirious (at least that is what I am telling myself) ;-)

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  • Scott T
    replied
    Thanks Tom. I always thought it looked like a cool way to do the servos but never knew
    how they set it up. That is some neat designing. Thanks for the pictures.

    Scott T

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  • trout
    replied
    Originally posted by Scott T
    How are the servo shafts sealed against water in this type of water tight compartment?
    O-ring inside, o-ring outside or both, and how they secured them?
    Scott,
    The seal is an o-ring.
    Here it is:
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    The o-ring is in its own channel and the arm is tightened down to hold it all together.
    The other cool part is how the servos are installed transitions from the outside motion to the servo.
    The servo has a square mounted on the top.
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    It slides into the end cap.
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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by trout
    um, awkward. You have been in your cave a little too long. Go on a date night with Ellie. LOL email sent.


    Perhaps I should have phrased that a bit better....

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  • MFR1964
    replied
    Hmmmmm, you're in trouble Tom, nothing is worse when David wants to hug and starts saying sweet words.


    Manfred.

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  • trout
    replied
    um, awkward. You have been in your cave a little too long. Go on a date night with Ellie. LOL email sent.

    Leave a comment:


  • Scott T
    replied
    Tom,
    How are the servo shafts sealed against water in this type of water tight compartment?
    O-ring inside, o-ring outside or both, and how they secured them?


    Scott T

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Tom! I love you ... have my baby!!!!

    E-mail me when you can, pal.

    David

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  • trout
    replied
    I found the instructions on how to do it.
    Click image for larger version

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  • trout
    replied
    You can program where you want your servos to go upon signal loss.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    The WFly receiver has a built-in fail-safe of its own. When it looses the transmitted signal, the receiver generates it's own 1.5ms pulse that it sends to all servos and devices made up to its output ports -- effectively placing all servos and devices to 'neutral' on loss of the transmitted signal. Fine for airplanes, helicopters and boats. Not so for model submarines that employ fail-safes that must see a zero pulse-train if they are to work.

    We're working with the good WFly people to re-write the receivers micro-processor code to disable the receivers fail-safe feature.

    David

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  • trout
    replied
    Did a little spring cleaning. I like silicon, but I have resistance to it as well. It goes back to a time in the late 70's early 80's when I sold, installed, and repaired alarm systems. There were some installers that would slap a contact up (and not use the screws) with silicon. Always looked sloppy and unprofessional to me. So that little pet peeve still haunts me today. I will put it out there it is just me and no reflection on those that use silicon to install things. I needed to install a new antenna wire to see if I could improve reception.
    The original antenna was 40+" long because the original frequency was different than the one I installed. So to better match the wFly receiver, I put in the wFly's shorter antenna.
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    As i did this, this section
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    was just begging to be worked on, plus I needed to realign the shelf the on/off switch was on. The tray had slid to a point I could not easily get to the switch. So off came the old silicon.
    Here is the bulkhead that held the two pieces together.
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    It took a chunk of time to clean it up.
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    There were pins installed to keep the cylinders from separating while charging with propellent. The downward pushing could cause the areas to shift apart. Those were hidden under the band of silicon, not like this one on the other end.
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    Test fitted the end and the new o-ring would not make contact all the way around. Hence, why silicon was probably used.
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    Wrapping two complete wraps of teflon tape around the channel and putting the o-ring back on made the o-ring have enough contact to form a seal.
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    Trimmed the tape and installed the pins.
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    Sometimes silicon is necessary, like sealing the pins in.
    Now I think I will do the engine end cap.
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    Overall, it was a fun time prepping the subs.
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    Interestingly, the wFly RX when it was installed, the SubTech subsafe (signal loss safety device) stopped working. On another post there is a discussion of getting the wFly encoded to work with Kevin's ADF2....I wonder if that is why this stopped working? The wFly can be programmed if it losses signal, but it only knows instantaneous safety measures there cannot be a delay programmed in.

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  • trout
    replied
    I believe you are correct this one is more recent. Mike added about 2.5" to it to model the extension done on the 1957 Hecht.

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