Skipjack 1/72

[greenman407]

Point well taken. You can tell I dont do it for a living. But it holds the Propel and Ive gotten much better since then. That bottle is 3 years old.......EXCUSES EXCUSES! Would you like to hear a few more?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Point well taken. You can tell I dont do it for a living. But it holds the Propel and Ive gotten much better since then. That bottle is 3 years old.......EXCUSES EXCUSES! Would you like to hear a few more?

... YOU PEOPLE!

M

[greenman407]

I am happy to report that after the modifications were made I reinstalled my ratty looking copper cylinder back into the Sub-driver, along with a homemade diffuser/atomizer thingy. I then tested it for leaks and for operation. I can already tell the difference. The blows are more controlled and I get many more of them. Thanks Dave for the construction info. Using the componants of a purchased SAS Subdriver, I constructed this one almost three years ago to increase ballast and battery compartment sizes. When drilling the holes for the screws that hold the forward ballast tank bulkhead, it was accepted practise to countersink the holes so that the screws could be recessesd. Well one of those holes has started to have cracks radiating out from it.So, I filled up the hole with thin CA. I hope that will stop them from getting any bigger. If not.....I will make another one. However this time there will be no countersinking of screw heads. I think that its better to let the screw head remain on the outside, you just have to seal around them with CA. Now Ive got to get the forward ballast bulkhead back into position. Not an easy task considering the battery confinement rails I CAed into place. Not so much room to work with.

[greenman407]

Shes ready to go. Just add water

[HardRock]

Is your camera busted, Mark?

[greenman407]

Nah, just nothing worth taking a picture of. More in the future

[Bubblehead]

I'm getting all the parts I need to build the Moebuis Skipjack. So far I have the model and the 3.5" easy sub-driver. Again professing my ignorance in building an operating sub, I've come to the part in the instructions where I have to do some soldering and other complicated stuff to install the receiver antenna atop the sail. I don't plan to completely submerge the boat, so is all this really necessary? Help!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I'm getting all the parts I need to build the Moebuis Skipjack. So far I have the model and the 3.5" easy sub-driver. Again professing my ignorance in building an operating sub, I've come to the part in the instructions where I have to do some soldering and other complicated stuff to install the receiver antenna atop the sail. I don't plan to completely submerge the boat, so is all this really necessary? Help!

YES!!!!!!!!

M

[Bubblehead]

That was not the answer I was hoping to get, not sure what to do now. I guess I should have researched this all out before I took this on, but it sounded like this would be an easy build, easy for some not so easy for others like me. Any one have any suggestions, ideas, any way to get around this problem so that I can go ahead with the build?

[Bubblehead]

May be in my last post I asked the wrong question. I'm going to run the boat in brackish water, no ballast tanks or torpedoes, just basic operation, can I get by using the 24-75mHz system antenna or do I have to use the 2.4gHz antenna sub system which for me is too complicated to make?

[Subculture]

These questions should really be on a new thread rather than hijacking Mark's. However , running in brackish water will require the receiver aerial to be above the surface at all times, else you will lose the signal. Also worth pointing out that salt water really attacks any metal parts in you boat, so I would consider running sacrificial anodes, and also giving the boat a good rinse after sailing with fresh water.

[Bubblehead]

Sorry, I'm new to forums and didn't know I was doing something wrong, I'll try and do better in the future. It was not right of you to assume that I did this on purpose. I'll try again in the appropriate place.

[trout]

Bubble head,
I do not think Andy was saying you did do it on purpose. He was making a friendly suggestion. It looks like you took his advice and all is forgotten.

[Bubblehead]

Thanks, what I was confused about is that the the instructions called for the use of a co-axial cable while providing one less complicated and what I'm hearing is that the co-ax is not needed for the application I plan to put it through, if I'm wrong please correct me.

[trout]

2.4 GHz needs coaxial cable, MHz frequencies do not.