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M1
Whilst the quality of the parts received is good (and despite the fact it was pre production version), there is a lot of scratch building with this model, and a lot of creativity required. So I’m looking forward to choosing more of a kit next time! But it’s a pretty unique subject, and should look great once finished, especially in the two tone wavy livery. I read that at one time the three boats each used different experimental colour schemes, blues and greens, I bet no one has details of these colours do they? Research is a combination of the few photos available on line and small reference book on the M class subs, most of which seems to cover M2 after the hanger was added I also have the documentary on the sinking of M1. However the photos and drawings do not all reflect the same features. Aside from the major changes of M2 and M3 I cant imagine in the short life span of these boats that there would be much change to explain the differences im seeing, so it comes down to creativity and making the best interpretation of the data I have.
Step one was to clean up the rough hull parts and create a clean seam to join together. The joining took some time as the hull was not quite square, and so I epoxied bit by bit, and added reinforcing plasticard to the outside to hold it all together. I then left the assembled hull for a few months, partly due to work work load, but also in the hope it find its shape.
Next came the U cut, I tried using the outside table, but was far from flat So as getting decent timber in this country is a pain, I went to Ikea and bought some shelf seconds for a few bucks. Then using the shelf as meat in my Hull / table sandwich I tie wrapped the hull to the table, and then got the hull upright on the shelf by placing rules across the hull (flat bits) and using the vernier calipers to measure distance from rule to shelf until all was square, then pulled the ties tight to lock the hull firm (not too tight to deform the bow and stern)
Whilst the recommended Merriman device for hull cuts is more desirable, I mounted my proxon mini drill in its drill stand, set the height, and thus had a comparable tool for slicing and dicing.
Once the hull was sliced, I proceeded the lay glass strips inside the hull join and epoxy these in place, and then remove the various reinforcing bits stuck to the outside of the hull
My cut was at waterline level, which seemed a good idea at the tie, however I think I will stick to Cl in future as it makes lining the hull join up easier.
I wanted the WTC as low in the hull as possible, so using a 2.5” tube of approx the same length as the Sub driver (which wasn’t in my hands at this time), I placed the tube in the lower hull on top of two lumps of blu tack at the points I planned to fit my sub driver supports. I pushed the tube down until both ends had bottomed against the hull (this hull isn’t flat bottomed). I measured the thickness of blu tack after squishing and this gave me the height of the sub driver mounts at these points. Then using my hole cutter I cut a 2.5” hole in some Lexan sheet, cut this in half, and sized it according to my blu tack, and voila sub driver foundations.
Based on the drawings, it appears that the part just below the gun is flat not curved (as moulded) so I cut away the moulded part, and also a hole in the upper hull where the sail will sit. Also added floor to the sail and the strange wing like affairs that sit forward of the cockpit. I initially extended the cockpit floor outside the sail to form a flange on the outside as shown in the drawings, however after studying what few photos I have, I realised there is NO flange! So I then had to cut this away. Lastly I have started to prepare the sail for drilling holes for the masts and scopes.
More to come!
Any good ideas on adding bilge keels?
Also what servos are preffered for the Fox sub driver?
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