The Metcalf P Class Re-Build

[toppack]

Jeep4grog,
I see that you are using 2 speed-controls???
Are you trying to use motors for steering instead of rudder, or both?
Do you know that you can connect the motors in parallel on a single Speed-Control?
I have that type SC and it will handle the current of 2 of those motors with no problem.
Man, there's a lot of wires to connect up with 2 SCs! :D

[jeep4grog]

I have a Robbe Navy F-14 Radio (6 channels installed) with the dual throttles installed, so... Why not? I should get better control at slow and reverse speeds.

It's a static diver, with a snorkel and gas, why not finish it have dual trhottle control? I started life as an electrician... I like wires and stuff like that!

If it was easy, anyone could do it and it wouldn't be special.

[toppack]

I have a Robbe Navy F-14 Radio (6 channels installed) with the dual throttles installed, so... Why not? I should get better control at slow and reverse speeds.

It's a static diver, with a snorkel and gas, why not finish it have dual trhottle control? I started life as an electrician... I like wires and stuff like that!

If it was easy, anyone could do it and it wouldn't be special.

Okay, Great, :)
I thought you knew what you were doing but Just thought I should check.
Those are Good sealed speed-controls. I'll drink to THAT!

[jeep4grog]

I NEVER claimed that I knew what I was doing... :):)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I NEVER claimed that I knew what I was doing... :):)

Then you'll fit in just fine here.

Speak with AUTHORITY, and they'll believe anything.

David,

[Albion]

At the risk of opening old wounds, that may already be healed. Very suprised about the K&S tube, been soldering the stuff for years , never a problem, maybe a duff batch?

I assume you were using , a BIG enough soldering iron, or using a torch so as to get the heat in there?

When racing slot cars, which often had oilites soldered into them, i would place the bearing on a heat resistant surface with a paper towel underneath the bearing. Place hot iron onto the bearing, and the towel would draw the lubricant out of the bearing (not the graphite of course). The bearing would then solder more easily. Afterwards you could add lubricant back into the bearing. Typically these bearings have a low quality lubricant in them, and doing this would not only help solder the bearing but improve life and performance of the bearing

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

At the risk of opening old wounds, that may already be healed. Very suprised about the K&S tube, been soldering the stuff for years , never a problem, maybe a duff batch?

I assume you were using , a BIG enough soldering iron, or using a torch so as to get the heat in there?

When racing slot cars, which often had oilites soldered into them, i would place the bearing on a heat resistant surface with a paper towel underneath the bearing. Place hot iron onto the bearing, and the towel would draw the lubricant out of the bearing (not the graphite of course). The bearing would then solder more easily. Afterwards you could add lubricant back into the bearing. Typically these bearings have a low quality lubricant in them, and doing this would not only help solder the bearing but improve life and performance of the bearing

A variation on this is: After you've cooked or vacuumed the oil out of the sintered bearing (an open cell structure to the metal is the mechanism that holds and distributes the lubricant to the moving shaft within the bore of the bearing), you refresh the bearing with the new oil by dunking the dry bearing into a small container of the oil, and subjecting that to a 28-inch vacuum. Wait for the foam to fall, break the vacuum, and you have a completely saturated bearing.

David,

[Albion]

OK neat....

[jeep4grog]

Well heck yes I did use enough heat. I started with a soldering gun, went to a MAPP torch and ended up with an Oxy Acetylene torch to braze the parts… It way too thin and wouldn’t stay in shape. I think it was the flat stock. The solder would stick to the tube, but just ran off the flat stock. The bearings are not soldered in. I cut a small groove into them and pressed the tube into the grove. They lined up well and the shaft rotates freely.

Another way to “recharge” the oillight bearing is to put a cup of light oil into a tall can and heat it by placing it into a pot of boiling water. Put the bearings into the hot oil for about 15 min and it will soak in. Not as good a David’s method, but if you don’t have a vacuum pump it will do in a pinch.

[jeep4grog]

Wow time flies...

Getting cold in Ohio again so it's back to finishing the sub!!

We spent the summer working on the new house and building a second garage on the property to have a place for the '40 Packard re-build my wife and I want to start.

In late Feb the sub hull had an major accident and was knocked off the workbench in the garage. It split the hull and damaged all the planes on the port side as well as destroying the rudder. I had to re-glass the hull and make all new planes and a rudder. It all came out pretty well.

The Sub Driver is almost complete and the shaft struts, planes and rudder are installed. Now it's time to fit the SubDriver in the hull and hook everything up. It will have functioning forward planes too!!

I also finished off a section of the basement and added a project room for the wife and a place for me to build.

My next project is on the way from LA. I found a Robbe U47 with "blown" electronics for $250. It’s built but needs some work and TLC. Does The Magician Dave have a recommended Sub Driver for this one? I would like to make it a static diver too...

[jeep4grog]

Here are a shot of the Robbe U-47 that is coming.

A Red lead bottom? What was he thinking???!!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Unfortunately, if I remember right, the cylinder of that kit is a vital structural element, the armature in fact, off of which all the hull frames and other foundation pieces are glued. Sorry, pal, you're stuck with that tube as your water tight space.

David,

[jeep4grog]

Bummer,

Guess it's an Engle tank or I will see if I can figure out a modified snort/gas/balast tank type of system. If all else fails, it stays a dynamic diver

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The kit supplied direct-drive motors were awful. Go with two geared 380-400's. Use about 3000mAh of Lithium-polymer battery and you'll have plenty of room for an inside hard tank so you can make it a static diver.

David,

[jeep4grog]

This might be a question for Kazzer?

I see you sell the same size P Class hull that I am resurrecting (and as we all know, necromancy is a sin and I am sure I will pay for this).

I did pick this up used and in need of a complete rebuild. I have no instructions and I was wondering if you could give me a "quesstimate" of how much lead weight I should start with in the hull.

I have the 3.5” Sub driver that Mr. Merriman made me last year.