The Metcalf P Class Re-Build

[jeep4grog]

Since the Subdriver is on it’s way. I guess it’s time to start the build thread…

I started this last year just before my stroke and wasn’t all that successful in building the do it yourself WTC as I wished. So, after listening to some sound advice from a friend in the Cleveland Boat Club, I ordered Dave’s masterpiece Sub-Driver.

I looked into the Gato kit for the bow plane riser, but the Brits do it different (see Pic). I want to try an match that look and function.

I have some damaged wash needles from a Bosch Ampoule washer from work. I think they look a lot like the original snorkel mast on the p class boats. It is hollow and 316L-SS so should last a long time. I will use the pump I already have. It’s a Gast, 10DC diaphragm pump and should work well for the snort. Pics here too.

I have a Robbe F-14 Navy controller so I think I have enough channels to do all I want…

[jeep4grog]

My Subdriver has arrived, thank you Mr Merriman!!!

Now the work begins...

[Deep Diver]

r

Since the Subdriver is on it’s way. I guess it’s time to start the build thread…

I started this last year just before my stroke and wasn’t all that successful in building the do it yourself WTC as I wished. So, after listening to some sound advice from a friend in the Cleveland Boat Club, I ordered Dave’s masterpiece Sub-Driver.

I looked into the Gato kit for the bow plane riser, but the Brits do it different (see Pic). I want to try an match that look and function.

I have some damaged wash needles from a Bosch Ampoule washer from work. I think they look a lot like the original snorkel mast on the p class boats. It is hollow and 316L-SS so should last a long time. I will use the pump I already have. It’s a Gast, 10DC diaphragm pump and should work well for the snort. Pics here too.

I have a Robbe F-14 Navy controller so I think I have enough channels to do all I want…

Good Day
There is a good diaogarm in a book on the "A" class I do think it is called "The Alliance" on the workings of the bow planes, the Sub museum in Gosport U.K may have a copy, or if you e-mail them they may just send you the detail that you require.:)

[jeep4grog]

I am trying to see if I can fit 2 ESC's, 3 additional servos, an 8 channel receiver, and a SubTech SES-3 switch in the Subdriver. It looks like it will all fit, but it will be tight. I am planning on having independent control of the motors. Once it is all laid out and the wiring figured out, I will take pictures.

I am also working on the shaft struts. I have to pick up some 5/16” brass tubing today to start assembling them. I will solder brass struts to the tube, put oil impregnated brass bushings in the tube to support the shafts and they should look and work like the real thing.

Pictures will added be as soon as all the parts are assembled and the real build begins…

[jeep4grog]

I am building the shaft struts so while waiting for the epoxy to dry, I was beginning the install of the ESC's and stuff in the Subdriver.

I noticed that there are no capacitors on the motors. Do I need to add them or are they installed in the motors?

Thanks!

[junglelord]

I believe that surpressor capacitors are always needed on motors.
I will let Mr Merriman correct me if thats wrong.
I was told that anyway.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I believe that surpressor capacitors are always needed on motors.
I will let Mr Merriman correct me if thats wrong.
I was told that anyway.

Indeed they should. If the gent whe has a SubDriver without them would give me his address I'll get two sets of cap's off to him. Sorry about that.

David,

[jeep4grog]

It's OK Dave I have caps I can install. I just wanted to check first. Some of the newer motors have them installed internally now and I didn’t want to double up.

I finished the shaft struts yesterday. It was a real interesting project...

I tried to solder these together, but couldn't get the solder to stay or flow. That K&S brass wouldn’t let it stick? Acid cleaning and/or sanding the parts didn’t help either. I tried brazing, but that was too hot for the thin brass and it kept collapsing and changing shape, next was some aluminum welding rod, that was a mess too. It wouldn't flow well, so I gave up and used JB Weld and that worked. Leanred a few thrings....

Good thing this stuff comes in 12" lengths. Gave me lots of material to practice with.

These are straight and the shaft rotates freely in it. All I need to do is give them a little grinding to finish them off. I think they will look pretty much like the originals once installed and painted.

[toppack]

Yes they look very much like the originals,
Lookin' Good! :)

[Kazzer]

When I did my S Class, I just used 1/8" brass rod as the strut, ran a 4BA thread on it (hey it's a British boat) and then drilled a hole into the bearing and tapped that out. No glue, no soldering - tight as a drum!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

It's OK Dave I have caps I can install. I just wanted to check first. Some of the newer motors have them installed internally now and I didn’t want to double up.

I finished the shaft struts yesterday. It was a real interesting project...

I tried to solder these together, but couldn't get the solder to stay or flow. That K&S brass wouldn’t let it stick? Acid cleaning and/or sanding the parts didn’t help either. I tried brazing, but that was too hot for the thin brass and it kept collapsing and changing shape, next was some aluminum welding rod, that was a mess too. It wouldn't flow well, so I gave up and used JB Weld and that worked. Leanred a few thrings....

Good thing this stuff comes in 12" lengths. Gave me lots of material to practice with.

These are straight and the shaft rotates freely in it. All I need to do is give them a little grinding to finish them off. I think they will look pretty much like the originals once installed and painted.

Brass and other copper bearing alloys are the easiest to solder. Did you attempt to solder with those Olite bearings in the bearing tube? If so, the oil expanded with the heat and leached out and migrated onto the outside of the tube and contaminated the joint between tube and struts, spoiling the wetting action of the molten solder.

David,

[jeep4grog]

No Mr. Merriman,

I have been working in maintenance long enought to know that!
The bearings were not in the tubes when I tried the solder. I think it's whatever that K&S brass was made of. I have some brass shim stock from another project and it can be soldered. Any brass I have from McMaster works fine.

Since I thought I was losing my mind (there isn't much left anyway...) I tried a few other pieces. No problem. I cant get anything to stick to that brass flat stock except the epoxy!?!?

Putting the Subdriver together today. Caps are in, adding the 2 ESC's and wiring.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

No Mr. Merriman,

I have been working in maintenance long enought to know that!
The bearings were not in the tubes when I tried the solder. I think it's whatever that K&S brass was made of. I have some brass shim stock from another project and it can be soldered. Any brass I have from McMaster works fine.

Since I thought I was losing my mind (there isn't much left anyway...) I tried a few other pieces. No problem. I cant get anything to stick to that brass flat stock except the epoxy!?!?

Putting the Subdriver together today. Caps are in, adding the 2 ESC's and wiring.

Sometimes I find myself dealing with idiots. I now have some appreciation for your skill level. That won't happen again.

K&S typically uses 'cartridge brass', I don't know the alloy for sure, but I think the copper and zinc has a bit of manganese in there -- anyway, it solders good. But maybe they sent you some stuff packaged incorrectly?

David,

[jeep4grog]

I may never know the answer. I purchased the brass at my local hobby store... and it sheds solder like a duck sheds water!

On to the next subject:
I have two sets of props. One the Raboesch (The #157 right and left) and a set from Harbor Models (their model # 1717 right and left). I have pics. The harbor model props are a bit larger and have a more pronounced pitch. Any suggestions on what set to use? It seems the Harbor Model props will give me more push with less speed.

As a side note, the Subdriver is getting busy too...

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I may never know the answer. I purchased the brass at my local hobby store... and it sheds solder like a duck sheds water!

On to the next subject:
I have two sets of props. One the Raboesch (The #157 right and left) and a set from Harbor Models (their model # 1717 right and left). I have pics. The harbor model props are a bit larger and have a more pronounced pitch. Any suggestions on what set to use? It seems the Harbor Model props will give me more push with less speed.

As a side note, the Subdriver is getting busy too...

Hell ... I don't know.

Sea-trials will tell the tale as to which set works best.

David,