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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by RCnut
    Tell me what you think of this, I have the original parts that are supplied with the 2340 jet drive (See Pic) Would it not make sense to send you a set of those as opposed to a rough set of mine which are direct (Interior Copys), all I did was fill the two halfs with silicon rubber and pour Resin and Matt over them. They are more accurate as a starting point and a lot cleaner, Just a bit thin lol.
    That would be perfect!

    I would not increase the units height off the deck, only widen the foot-print of its flange where it meets the deck by the inclusion of a flange of increased height and width to take the fastening screws that holds the production unit onto the deck.

    And there would be no copyright infringement -- I will vastly change the units configuration AND function.

    When done converting the vacuformed Graupner intake piece to our special use, I'll use it as a master, make tools, and from those the cast resin parts required by you and others. Provision will be made for a inclusion of an Oilite bearing to support the forward end of the rotor shaft.

    Once all is done I return the modified piece (now a production master) and tooling to you for further production of these PJ intake parts.

    David

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  • RCnut
    replied
    Really rough sketch Open it up in paint and zoom in, lol.
    Attached Files

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  • RCnut
    replied
    I just had a thought, As my lay up thickness can vary, how about a custom made plate that I will lay in place and it would be embedded into the bottom hull. with indications for the screw fixings for the jet? I'll make it up tommorow and take some pics. If you like it then I will cast one up and send both items. In fact I will Do that and set the angle on the jet to make sure it all lines up. What do you think?

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  • RCnut
    replied
    Tell me what you think of this, I have the original parts that are supplied with the 2340 jet drive (See Pic) Would it not make sense to send you a set of those as opposed to a rough set of mine which are direct (Interior Copys), all I did was fill the two halfs with silicon rubber and pour Resin and Matt over them. They are more accurate as a starting point and a lot cleaner, Just a bit thin lol.
    Attached Files

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    It's my intention -- with your permission, of course -- to put to one side of the PJ inlet piece (which, when the work is complete, will become a master form which tooling and resin parts will be produced) a servo operated slide or barrel valve that will take a suction on the hulls interior for de-watering purposes.

    Wait till you build up that foundation (make it at least 1/8" thick), then build a flange perimeter around the bottom (where it attaches to the foundation) of your GRP inlet piece. Size everything so the outlet of the PJ is in line with your RateMaster centerline. The objective here is to make the entire PJ unit removable from your hull.

    Instead of glassing the eventual cast resin valve equipped PJ inlet piece to the bottom of the hull, we'll secure it with an array of small machine screws -- those screws fitting taped holes in the foundation piece. This gives us the opportunity to remove the entire PJ unit for alteration, adjustment or repair. I recommend you build in the same foundation set-up within the hull of that great looking SKY-DIVER of yours. Those two PJ's can be used to de-water that massive hull as well.

    I'll produce all the PJ inlet pieces you desire. With a common piece like this you simply build up the foundations of a specific model submarine to a height that will put the PJ centerline on or close to that of the vehicles nozzle(s).

    David

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  • RCnut
    replied
    I will have to make one up for you, but I hadnt planned to make up a flange fixing to the bottom of the hull, I will do that now. The intake is a copy of the Graupner one But as it sits it will be too high. So its going to need cutting and re seating. I will have a better idea tommorow when the jet gets here. I can make the thickness a bit thinner or thicker depending on how many layers I put down. More info and pictures tommorow.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    would you send me a copy of the PJ intake? I would help me with the slide-valve needed to de-water the hull. Better my work matches yours than burdening you with trying to match my work.

    What is the approximate wall thickness of the lower hull? And will you build up a foundation (flange) in the floor of the lower hull over which the PJ intake duct you've made will screw down onto?

    David D Merriman lll
    835 Holly Hedge Ave.
    Virginia Beach, VA 23452
    David

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  • RCnut
    replied
    Just a teaser, The Graupner jet will be here tommorrow but in the meantime as with the Skydiver jets I made my own intake up (The Graupner ones are flimsey vacformed plastic) The trick here will be to position it so I can get the ratemaster rotating bits to fit inside and still steer the thing.
    Attached Files

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  • RCnut
    replied
    And I take full responsibility looool, BTW I started to clean up the hulls and removed the cabin opening.....Must slow down!!!!

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by Albion
    In strained Troy Tempest voice on the verge of unconciousness "must have it, must have it, uhh"

    I have a complete set of Thunderbirds, must get the stingray set now :(
    Nice work, Albion! Between you and me we pegged the Geek-meter!

    I blame RCNut!

    David

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  • Albion
    replied
    In strained Troy Tempest voice on the verge of unconciousness "must have it, must have it, uhh"

    I have a complete set of Thunderbirds (DVD's that is!) , must get the stingray set now :(, for research purposes only of course
    Last edited by Albion; 07-07-2012, 06:15 PM.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by Subculture
    Could you not cast those bubbles (aquasprites) in the clear resin the ratemaster is cast from? If vac formed they make a nice air trap for a working model (assuming it submerges).
    A solid cast, clear compound curve structure (the Sprite cockpit bubble) like that would refract light like a kaleidoscope.


    A thin walled bubble would register as 'real' when seen in air and through water. If you seal the bubble (two of em') to keep them dry at all times then they merely becomes another buoyant element to compensate for during model trimming.


    Yeah, vacuform those critters.

    David

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  • Subculture
    replied
    Could you not cast those bubbles (aquasprites) in the clear resin the ratemaster is cast from? If vac formed they make a nice air trap for a working model (assuming it submerges).

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  • RCnut
    replied
    These pics show all the parts for Stingray, Note that the Aquasprites will be in clear plastic vac form, Decals will also be included.
    Attached Files

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  • Albion
    replied
    Originally posted by RCnut
    Done! heres the first one out of the moulds, I have to say that I am utterly totally well happy with the results. :D
    Very nice, anything can happen in the next half hour

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