1/72 Los Angeles Flight 3 in PLA and PVC

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  • Trim Tank Tinkerer
    Lieutenant, Junior Grade
    • Jun 2025
    • 13

    #1

    1/72 Los Angeles Flight 3 in PLA and PVC

    Hey there, I am new to this hobby, but learning a lot from videos, reading and other mentors such as 'He Who Shall Not Be Named'. I ordered the 688 preprinted kit from the Nautilus Drydocks and assembled. I was rushed in the aesthetics due to desire to be utilized at a function and am currently in the process of figuring out what my next steps are to refinish the outside and get it working as an RC conversion. I did add some non-skid but again it was rushed, not fully to scale and has inconsistent texture. Also, being very junior I did not fully understand the concept of scribing when I tried to etch the SHT in, resulting in inconsistent sized tiling and not the cleanest job overall, another item to return to later.

    Review of the kit overall: The kit provides a decent starting point if you don't have a printer of your own to buy the files and print your own kit. Major critiques: there are drain holes instead of ballast tank holes in the bottom, the designer attempted to print some of the scribing into the print, most of which was inaccurate and had to be filled, the plastic joints to the PVC also were poorly sized and had to be filled to make a smooth joining edge. Also the resolution of the print was overall lower, any curved edges in the print needed filling such as the dihedrals, the yokes provided don't work well for securing control surfaces and I am in the process of replacing them, and finally, the pieces are joined with 6 bolts, each of the holes holding the bolts are now cracking, and I am working on fiberglassing over to reinforce (I did not overtighten the bolts)

    Here are some pictures from the early process, I was not as big into the whole chronicling thing originally so I did not take as many pictures, but hopefully there will be more to come. Additionally, Not shown, I fiberglassed the inside of the hull so I could move the drain holes to resemble actual ballast tanks without causing the PLA to splinter when I go to cut into it.
  • Albacore 569
    Captain

    • Sep 2020
    • 619

    #2
    Originally posted by Trim Tank Tinkerer
    Hey there, I am new to this hobby, but learning a lot from videos, reading and other mentors such as 'He Who Shall Not Be Named'. I ordered the 688 preprinted kit from the Nautilus Drydocks and assembled. I was rushed in the aesthetics due to desire to be utilized at a function and am currently in the process of figuring out what my next steps are to refinish the outside and get it working as an RC conversion. I did add some non-skid but again it was rushed, not fully to scale and has inconsistent texture. Also, being very junior I did not fully understand the concept of scribing when I tried to etch the SHT in, resulting in inconsistent sized tiling and not the cleanest job overall, another item to return to later.

    Review of the kit overall: The kit provides a decent starting point if you don't have a printer of your own to buy the files and print your own kit. Major critiques: there are drain holes instead of ballast tank holes in the bottom, the designer attempted to print some of the scribing into the print, most of which was inaccurate and had to be filled, the plastic joints to the PVC also were poorly sized and had to be filled to make a smooth joining edge. Also the resolution of the print was overall lower, any curved edges in the print needed filling such as the dihedrals, the yokes provided don't work well for securing control surfaces and I am in the process of replacing them, and finally, the pieces are joined with 6 bolts, each of the holes holding the bolts are now cracking, and I am working on fiberglassing over to reinforce (I did not overtighten the bolts)

    Here are some pictures from the early process, I was not as big into the whole chronicling thing originally so I did not take as many pictures, but hopefully there will be more to come. Additionally, Not shown, I fiberglassed the inside of the hull so I could move the drain holes to resemble actual ballast tanks without causing the PLA to splinter when I go to cut into it.



    Welcome to the Hobby. Fascinating isn't it. You build a beautiful model then go out and deliberately sink it in water...lol.

    Who's rushing you? (you mention it twice) Punch them in the face, check they are still breathing on the shop floor, drag their body away and TAKE YOR TIME.

    The paint work is the icing fun part of making this cake. The pleasure here is building your 'boat' as well as running it. I have the opposite problem; I enjoy the building I don't want to get my subs feet wet! LOL.

    Use common sense in your early test runs. a swimming pool large enough is best you can see it perform and its behavior when you make certain control inputs and most important you can retrieve it if something goes wrong and you didn't make adequate pre checks.

    Make several decisions early in the process on painting. How weathered do you want your sub? Fresh from the builder's yard. or a little weathering, or a Russian filthy toilet. lol.

    Many videos from Who it shall not be named' is an expert on weathering too. It's an art. I prefer a clean boat with a little weathering, understated.

    Glad you're learning the art of model subs. Not many have the courage. Don't be like those rc car hobbyists that are not hobbyists but just future brake pad change mechanics (Brakes are important too mind you, don't be mistaken) that just assemble miniature car parts from stores masquerading as a hobby shop where everything has been done for you and there's no creativity or problem solving.

    My USS Permit (SSN-594) 1/96 static model. I still miss my Floquil paints.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	Permit-3.jpg Views:	0 Size:	51.8 KB ID:	188848
    Last edited by Albacore 569; 06-29-2025, 06:12 PM.

    Comment

    • He Who Shall Not Be Named
      Moderator

      • Aug 2008
      • 13404

      #3
      Welcome aboard, Michael. Let the beatings begin!!!
      Who is John Galt?

      Comment

      • RCSubGuy
        Welcome to my underwater realm!

        • Aug 2009
        • 1937

        #4
        Just a note... that product isn't advertised as anything it is not. For people wanting a museum quality kit, look elsewhere. For those looking for a good quality starting point, this is the ticket. Some of the complaints are not from the files themselves, but the printing process, which lets it down.

        Set expectations first. Ask questions first. Research first.

        Comment

        • Trim Tank Tinkerer
          Lieutenant, Junior Grade
          • Jun 2025
          • 13

          #5
          I understood that this kit was just a launching point, I was commenting on some of the features that I am changing as I do the build.

          And for an update, I haven't posted in a while.
          Here are some of the latest things I have been working on with the boat:
          Made a rudder movement arm with He Who Shall Not Be Named
          Since then also been working on adding bullet connectors and wiring up various aspects of the electrical distribution in the boat.
          Next Steps: Scree the tailcone to match the propeller
          -finish wiring
          -make up servo connections
          -Program Receiver

          Comment

          • Trim Tank Tinkerer
            Lieutenant, Junior Grade
            • Jun 2025
            • 13

            #6
            Got the wiring in and all components work! Nice to know I still know how electrons work, even if it ain't pretty.

            The one thing I had particular annoyance with was the fact that the ground on the mission switch wasn't labeled so I 50/50 90ed it. Thank goodness I have fuses in the circuit. The wiring to the mission switch was neater before I realized that, now I need to make a cradle for the battery and get the servo arms hooked up and the receiver connected.

            Comment

            • Trim Tank Tinkerer
              Lieutenant, Junior Grade
              • Jun 2025
              • 13

              #7
              Met up with He Who Shall Not Be Named again who helped me scree my tail cone to match the prop that I got from prop shop UK and enlarge the access to my tailcone which will be much appreciated. I also swapped out the momentary switch for an actual on/off switch. Not the most elegant but quite robust and I don't anticipate having any problems with it.
              Attached Files

              Comment

              • Marylandradiosailor
                Lieutenant

                • Nov 2021
                • 59

                #8
                TTT, could you perhaps give the part number for the prop shown in the above photos? I kinda like the looks of it!

                Comment

                • Trim Tank Tinkerer
                  Lieutenant, Junior Grade
                  • Jun 2025
                  • 13

                  #9
                  Hey, I got it from Prop shop UK. Here's the link and the description that you can match in the propeller section. They have a lot of variation of standard skewback propeller designs.
                  We supply a large range of model boat propellers. Most propellers are made to order however we do keep a selection of popular scale props.

                  MS/28/7/RH/BR

                  Comment

                  • Marylandradiosailor
                    Lieutenant

                    • Nov 2021
                    • 59

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Trim Tank Tinkerer
                    Hey, I got it from Prop shop UK. Here's the link and the description that you can match in the propeller section. They have a lot of variation of standard skewback propeller designs.
                    We supply a large range of model boat propellers. Most propellers are made to order however we do keep a selection of popular scale props.

                    MS/28/7/RH/BR
                    TTT thanks for the pn

                    Comment

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