GATO! (It has begun)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

So tonight im going to continue configuring/testing my radio system. Ive followed this link to get this configured http://support.caswellplating.com/in...ment/371/25508

Few questions from this article

1) im using figure 2 for my receiver connections, but the differences are that this setup doesnt count for a separate BEC and my setup doesnt have torpedoes (i guess this setup doesnt even consider having bow plane retrackti g either ). So, im thinking about putting the BEC connection to either channel 7 or 8?

2) is there any other changes/considerations that i should make with my gato SAS build?


separate topic

1) torque tub and handling the bow planes pitch/retraction mechanics. This wasnt really covered i. The DVDs. Im able to pick up bits and pieces from pics and other threads. Is there a guide that ive been missing on this part somewhere?

thanks everyone!

1. That block schematic was for the old 'snort' configured ballast sub-system, which required two channels for ballast sub-system operation. For your SAS configured ballast sub-system forget channel-5, as now both the ballast servo AND LPB MPC work off the APC2 fail-safe port through a Y-lead (one leg to the servo, the other leg to the MPC). You can now use channel-5 for your retract servo. Neat, huh! Stick the big nasty BEC in any unused receiver port -- the bus don't mind.

One of these days I should update the SAS SD instructions for the GATO.

2. No. Keep It Simple!!!!!

M

[matthewnimmo]

So tonight im going to continue configuring/testing my radio system. Ive followed this link to get this configured http://support.caswellplating.com/in...ment/371/25508

Few questions from this article

1) im using figure 2 for my receiver connections, but the differences are that this setup doesnt count for a separate BEC and my setup doesnt have torpedoes (i guess this setup doesnt even consider having bow plane retrackti g either ). So, im thinking about putting the BEC connection to either channel 7 or 8?

2) is there any other changes/considerations that i should make with my gato SAS build?


separate topic

1) torque tub and handling the bow planes pitch/retraction mechanics. This wasnt really covered i. The DVDs. Im able to pick up bits and pieces from pics and other threads. Is there a guide that ive been missing on this part somewhere?

thanks everyone!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

yes, I did, Matt. Mike's checking things out at the warehouse.

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

yes, I did, Matt. Mike's checking things out at the warehouse.

M

[matthewnimmo]

@david: did you ever get a chance to chat with Mike about my 75mhz issue?

[matthewnimmo]

Thanks David! I think i have them pretty well set now. Next step is to get my channels set to the right controls on my radio. For example, i dont like how the snorkel pump is the left movement on my throttle joystick. Little affraid that im going to accidently engage that while submerged. Now that ive got the blasted remote in plane mode im hoping thins might work easier (still trying to figure out how to tie specific channels to different switches)

also, how do specify certain functions that are daised together on one channel like the fail safe blow (or do i never really want to engage that unless the failsafe triggers?)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Run the brass pushrod through a greenie abrasive pad, then coat the rod with silicon grease. The microscopic axial scratches on the surface of the pushrod now capture the grease so it will better lubricate the contact area between pushrod and O-ring seal within the seal body.

Keep playing with it, eventually you'll find the sweet-spot where the bends you put into the inboard side of the pushrod permits a low-friction passage of the pushrod through the gland of the seal.

Enjoy.

M

[matthewnimmo]

Definitely having fun, just always cautious that im going to beeak something lol. So working on the brass linkage from the servo horns through the water tight seals. Im learning that im having to bend these to get correct, but no matter how i bend them it seems to always have a bind

thoughts?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

... it was the little on/off switch on the ESC lol. So, the drive has no reverse; i believe thats probably going to be a trim issue seeing that i have to have the stick all the way down to make it neutral. remote is in helicopter mode (or at least that's what is being displayed at the moment. So, the good news is; i think i have everything hooked up ...now its time to make sure things are working from the transimiters perspective trim wise (such as my drives). Going to keep messing with the tx/rx with the 72mhz until David has an answer about my 75mhz option ... at least i'm able to test things out while i wait:)

I'm just glad i didn't melt anything down.

OK ... while I was oozing wisdom, you figured out how to work the on/off switch. Now, take my instructions and line up the ahead/astern points on the ESC with those of the transmitter.

Getting there, almost got it licked, buddy.

Get that transmitter into ACRO (acrobatic) mode -- normal r/c plane stick and switch assignments, which are shared be all vehicles that are not frig'n helicopters. Why WFly makes HELI the default mode is beyound me. Those rascally orientals!

To set ACRO/HELI model you hold the 'menu' button down and you turn on the transmitter then follow the on-screen instructions.

Go get 'em, Tiger! Hav'n fun yet?

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You people!

You gotta get your ESC to talk nice to your transmitter. Here's how you do that:

First, make sure that the transmitters ch-3 (throttle) end-points are set to 100% - 100%.

Turn the ESC ON/OFF switch to the ON position. Put the transmitters throttle stick to neutral, then turn on the transmitter, then turn on the SD, then hit the ESC set button before the pretty green-red lights on the face of the thing stops flashing. Move the transmitter stick to full-ahead, then down to full-astern, then back to neutral. The ESC is now programmed to work with your transmitter. Are the motors now running in accordance with transmitter stick position?

M

[matthewnimmo]

... it was the little on/off switch on the ESC lol. So, the drive has no reverse; i believe thats probably going to be a trim issue seeing that i have to have the stick all the way down to make it neutral. remote is in helicopter mode (or at least that's what is being displayed at the moment. So, the good news is; i think i have everything hooked up ...now its time to make sure things are working from the transimiters perspective trim wise (such as my drives). Going to keep messing with the tx/rx with the 72mhz until David has an answer about my 75mhz option ... at least i'm able to test things out while i wait:)

I'm just glad i didn't melt anything down.

[trout]

Did you clip or remove the red line from your ESC to the receiver? And did you keep the on/off switch on the ESC? If this is a Mtroniks ESC, did you try the reset/configuration?

[matthewnimmo]

So, got everything connected. Turned on the power and the transmitter. The lipoguard iluminated like expected to the instructions (so, i take that as a good sign that i didn't fry anything. But, nothing beyond that is working when i just mess around with my transmitter with toggles, switches, etc (thinking something should twitch or move) Not even my angle keeper is lit up. Silly question, but is my receiver on LOL? I noticed that the instructions have channel 9 for power (but what connector is my power...is it my ESC connection)? If so, do i need to move that down from channel 3 to 9?

Well, i had the connections backwards on the receiver....but i still don't have my main motors running from the drive gear...need to see what's up therre

[matthewnimmo]

So, got everything connected. Turned on the power and the transmitter. The lipoguard iluminated like expected to the instructions (so, i take that as a good sign that i didn't fry anything. But, nothing beyond that is working when i just mess around with my transmitter with toggles, switches, etc (thinking something should twitch or move) Not even my angle keeper is lit up. Silly question, but is my receiver on LOL? I noticed that the instructions have channel 9 for power (but what connector is my power...is it my ESC connection)? If so, do i need to move that down from channel 3 to 9?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Yeah, stick the big ugly, discrete BEC's three-wire lead into any unused receiver port.

The object of the game is this: All the devices draw current off of a single bus within the receiver (other than the ESC, Lipo-Guard, and MPC which also main-lines current straight from the batter). The receiver bus provides all the operating current the devices and servos need to operate, and it provides this current at a constant 5-volts. The BEC is the power-supply for the receiver bus, it's a regulated power supply rated for the maximum current draw of 5 Ampere's. The ESC's BEC can only squirt out 1.5 - 2 Ampere's before it strokes out. That's why we recommend the discrete 5A BEC for the larger SD's -- bigger and more servos mean more current drain off the receiver bus.

M