British T-class

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It's just one problem after the other. :eek: :mad:
I got the small black servo reversers, I tried one and it worked but it did not stop the jitter problems, but after trying many things I found that by switching functions of clannels 5 and 6, the problem went away. Which is very strange! :confused:
I then noticed that one of the propulsion motors output shaft was not turning. I found that the motor was turning tho, so I took appart the gear-reduction assembly on it and fount that it had a loose set screw in gear on motor shaft.
After getting it all back together i found that the vent/blow servo (ch-1) would Not work now. It seemed that for some reason that reciever channel or it's connector had now quit, so I switched everything over to another reciever.
Now everthing worked including the vent/blow servo, except now the snort pump would not turn off, which is on an E-switch(ch-7).
That was the last straw, I couldn't take any more Fun for tonight.:(

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Jittery servos sure do draw a lot of current.
I'm glad I put a good heat-sink on the voltage-regulator in forward WTC.
While trying to trouble-shoot the problem it was getting Very Hot, because of the excess current.

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I found another type servo reverser. It's sort of the Cadillac model, made by Futaba. It also has a signal-noise filter circuit, which i think I'll need.
It's larger than the others but I have enough space in the 3.5" SD.
I got one on eBay at a low price so thought I'd give it a try also.
Click Pic:

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Opto-Isolated to eliminate radio noise. Operates 2 devices from one channel. Independently turn on and off 2 devices up to 20 volts @ 4 amps. Selectable fail-safe feature. Selectable momentary or latching feature for each device

If you are suggesting an E-switch to be used to solve my problem, that is a 'Completely Different' thing.
E-switches are for turning devices on/off (such as lights, pump-motors, etc.). It's just a remotely actvated Switch.
I'm trying to connect 2 servos to 1 reciever channel, for mechanical activation of 2 linkage arms at opposite ends of the sub. I had to do it that way since I ran out of reciever channels for everything I wanted to put into model.
I'm hopeing the reverser circuit will isolate it the same as the E-switches do.

Caswell sells a very good E-switch called MERS for single device and the ES-2 for 2 devices on same channel.
I did order and recieved my first ES-2 from them. I bench tested it today and it's working great. :) I'll try it in the SD tomorrow.

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Well, No help from you guys, so looks like 'I'm treading a New Path' .:rolleyes:
I'm having Fun Now! I'll drink to THAT!

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I found the yellow one at Tower and the black one on eBay for half price.
I like the connector layout of the black one better, so I ordered 2 of those.
Has anyone used either of these Y-cable Reversers?
Click Pic:

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Well, i found out that my recievers do NOT like for two servos to be connected in parallel on one channel. Tried 3 recievers.
As soon as I connect up the 2nd one all the servos start 'Dancing the Jig'. :confused:
I put my O-scope on one of the other channels to monitor it and there were strange intermittent pulses everywhere.
Since I need to reverse one of the servos anyway, I'll see if the reversing-circuit isolates them so they won't 'Start having a Dance contest'. I'll need to order one so will have to wait to check it out.
I've seen Y-cables with a reverser in one leg already, I'll try to find one. I think Tower-Hobbies used to sell them.
If that don't fix it, it's gonna be in a 'world of hurt'. :rolleyes:

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I used RepairItQuik. You must have gotten all the Quickwood, mine's still on backorder?
I've already increased the size of the rudder, maybe that will help some with the turning radius.
I increase the rudder area about 25% from scale, on all my ship models, doing the same on the subs also. I may just tie a frying-pan on the tail of this one tho! :D

[Kazzer]

I also used the epoxy to modify the forward torpedo-tube door areas, since they were not realistic looking at all and needed major changes.

That epoxy is Great stuff! :)

Which epoxy Rick? Quickwood? That's my favorite!

As for the speed of the boat, scale it down from the original spec. I figure it should run at about 1.5-2 mph - a slow walk. My S Class looked pretty good in the water at that speed - very realistic. They need a hell of a turning circle though. I may cheat and pop a small Raboesh bow thruster in to help on the turns! :o

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I was able to route the prop shafts directly to flex couplings attached to 3.5" SD.
I had to relocate the fairing holes thru hull tho, by sanding away the fairing almost completely and using the handy-dandy RepairItQuik sculpting epoxy I got from Caswell to reconstruct them. They only protrude from hull about a 1/8" more than they did. I used the epoxy both inside and outside to hold stuffing-tubes in place.
Everything at shafts fits and looks great now. :)

I also used the epoxy to modify the forward torpedo-tube door areas, since they were not realistic looking at all and needed major changes.

That epoxy is Great stuff! :)

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I got the scale 3/16"-shaft propellers for the T-class. Wow, they look Small on the 1/48th hull.
I can certainly see why the original boats were so Slow, having to run props that undersized.
But I'm not building a speed boat
and the Raboesch props are very high quality, as usual. :)

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After studying pictures of Tally-ho more closely, I've desided that she did Not have DP guard fins. I don't think any of the Group-3 T-class subs did.
So now I can't deside if I Need the handles or not ???? :confused:
(I could design some other way to remove it.)
There's Always some History-Changing Decision to be Made! Censored

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Okay Thanks,
I guess I'll put them on. I was going to make that area between them removable anyway, to inspect T-launcher triggers, so the fins will be handy to use as handles when removing and installing it. :)

[Kazzer]

I think their correct name is 'dive plane guards'. I've seen them on all S & T Class earlier boats, but when they were streamlined, they were all removed.
I made mine from brass sheet.

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Mike,
In this picture of a British T-class model I've found several errors and problems.
The one I'm curious about tho are the fixed vertical fins, on top of deck, above dive-planes.
I don't think any of the T-class subs had these but it's difficult to tell since in all pics the DPs are in up position. I saw a picture of a S-class that appeared to have them. Did all S-class have those short fixed vertical fins? And maybe some of the T-class?
Very strange that they were needed there, unless they were a safety-bump-stop for the bow-planes ???
Click Pic: