Alanger Type 23 build

[subcapt101974]

Hi Guys,
I purchased an Alanger XXIII from ebay and it is begging to modded for rc use. I have all my gear like motors, pumps, electronics etc. I will be using a 35mm acrylic tube for the wtc. I turned my own endcaps out of nylon rod. My problems are first to calculate the ballast tank size and second how to mod the hull to accept the cylinder. Not sure if I should make a horizontal cut on the hull to make 2 halfs. Anyone have any ideas?

[roedj]

I have a Special Navy 1/72 Type XXIII and have been giving the same problem some thought. So far, I'm not convinced a WTC is the way to go but rather I've been thinking of building in compartments out of styrene (or ?) and going that way mainly for the purpose of gaining more room to install 'stuff'. A 35mm tube, to my way of thinking, is miserably small for my fingers and other 'stuff'.

Some time ago Mike Caswell was doing a poll or just asking about r/c-ing these models. At the time I was hoping it was going to lead to commercial product but, I guess, the demand and David's time just were not there.

There's a build thread going on over at the submarine forum of RC Groups entitled '1/7 type XXIII R/C conversion'. Check it out.

I'll be watching your build with interest.

My two pfennigs worth,

Dan

[subcapt101974]

Yeah I was thinking of building in compartments also. My servos will be waterproofed with plastidip and an oring installed between the horn and case. The servos will be installed in the wet part of the hull thus saving alot of room in the wtc. I did this with my Robbe U47 with great success.

[roedj]

I would love to see (this means pictures - lots of pictures) just how you waterproofed the servos as there have been other attempts on this and other forums purporting to show how it's done - all with only limited success over time.

Dan

[subcapt101974]

There was nothing special in my opinion in the way I did this. I dont think it was a big deal to accomplish. Simply dunk the servo in plasti dip just a little past the mounts and slide an oring between the horn and case. Of course the oring must be lubed with silicone lube and when the horn is screwed down it has to compress the oring about .015 thats it. The oring has to be nitril not neoprene. The neoprene orings are just to hard to compress to make a good seal. I had my U47 5 yrs with this setup before I sold it. With no problems till that time.

[small sub guy]

I started my Type XXIII in 1/72 scale.
Here are some pics

[trout]

I am seriously jealous. That looks really sweet and a great use of the 1.25" sub-driver! This will be a fun build to watch and learn from.

[small sub guy]

Got my New prop from the prop shop today.
Could not wait to put it in place to see how it looks.
I also cast a sub driver mount.