Albacore continued

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Andy, I could not get to those sites. Anyone else haveing that problem?

[Subculture]

Have you heard of x2y components?

I found out about these a few weeks back when searching out some information on better noise suppression.

Basically they do the job of the three capacitors, only much, much better. They've been around since the mid-nineties, and apparently are used in a lot of equipment, and are used extensively in the automobile industry. There are some very good technical documents on suppressing motor brush noise, and it shows in the free pdf download the main sources of emission and what to look for in a quality motor.

http://www.x2y.com/

http://www.x2y.com/techlib.htm#dcpub

[MFR1964]

Mark,

I did the same trick with the 212, placed the adf in front with the batteries, mine was also twichy near the e motor, i certainly would place the third capacitor, to me three capacitors is always standard configuration, it keeps the buggs out.

[greenman407]

Well it may not be bad after all. I put a Caswell ADF2 in place of it and it does the same thing. They dont like it when I turn on the two drive motors. Im working on it. Im thinking about putting it upfront with the battery and speed control in the forward compartment. Im also trying to isolate the ADF2 from the vibration of the two motors. I can swap out another ADF2 and see if it makes any difference. The only other thing I can readily think of is the motors come with two capaciters instead of three. The one that normally goes across between the two terminals is missing.

[Subculture]

The Thor Manfg. APC became twitchy.

I have one those. It uses an ADXl202 accelerometer sensor to measure the level, and that feeds directly into a pic microcontroller. These were one of the first sensors of this type to come on the market. They're pretty rugged and reliable so I would be surprised if it has gone bad, although not impossible. might be worth checking the little trim pots used to select the sensitivity and adjust the level position, if one of those has gone a bit scratchy it could cause problems.

Also might be worth giving the board a scrub with some acetone or isopropanol, as beign an exposed board it could have picked up contamination. If the sensor itself has gone bad, it's probably not worth repairing- the ADXL202 has long been surpassed and I can only find them surplus where they sell for well above their value. The manufacturer, Analog devices might have a pin for pin replacement, but I don't know for sure.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Rest! The toys can wait.

David

[greenman407]

Caught the flu bug wednesday night. Ive been stuck in bed all thursday. I plan to get back after this thing on Saturday. Ive been working on hooking up the stern planes and getting everything else ship shape. After wiring up the dual Speed 400 motors I could immediately see that the Thor speed control wasnt going to cut it. So I ordered a Marine 15 amp job from Caswell along with a BEC with more capacity than my Dimension Engineering unit and an extra ADF2. Saturday afternoon Ill be heading to the water to trim this thing. Its coming along.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

By "Float" I percieve that you mean holding them up by means of a guide? What about a piece of plastic tubing extending out past the magnet like a sleeve so that if they disconnect, its still inside the sleeve?

Perfect!................................

[greenman407]

By "Float" I percieve that you mean holding them up by means of a guide? What about a piece of plastic tubing extending out past the magnet like a sleeve so that if they disconnect, its still inside the sleeve?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Though dynamically ballanced, those X-planes will present, in some situations, a big load on the linkage. You are advised to 'float' the control surface pushrod so it won't fall to the bottom of the stern if the magnetic coupling temporarily breaks. It the magnets will re-unit as soon as you move the transmitter stick in the appropriate direction. Word to the wise, Mark.

David

[greenman407]

The Thor Manfg. APC became twitchy. Thatll never due. Out with the old and in with the new. Ive got a Caswell/Mcleod unit that Ill put in there. Should have the WTC finished Tommorrow night. Then Ive got to make two drive shafts and hook up the planes. Ive always used positive conn. ball joints. Since these are going to be hooked up down in the bottom I think Ill use the magnetic connectors that Caswell sells. Thatll make it easier. Then its on to trimming the boat for submerged trim and then for surface trim.

[greenman407]

So, after the Gears are set up a little its put together with Brass 6/32" screws. After carefully measuring the distance available within the rear compartment, the alluminum servo tray is modified since its too long now with the two motors taking up more space that the single motor did with the different end cap.




Also now the Tray is cut where you see the pencil pointing as it gets attached on the side of the end cap instead of on the rear.

[greenman407]

Here we are with the motors mounted to the motor mount using screws and blue loctite. This required marking and drilling the holes and then countersinking the heads so that they dont stick out. If they do then it will interfere with the motor endcap going together. To attach the brass gears to the motor shafts I roughed them up a bit with the dremel cutofff wheel and then using "Sleeve Retainer" I glued them on. This stuff is mean! Youve got about 30 seconds to get it in position before you will not be able to move it.

[greenman407]

[greenman407]