The Project has Begun: Revell 1/72 Gato build

[redboat219]

Revell 1/72 Gato Subdriver specs

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I'm way late on the update but here is some progress. I've mostly completed the ballast chamber of the wtc. I also have the bow end cap rigged and ready to install. I'm currently working on the motor bulkhead and the stern dry compartment. I'm also working on designing some of the parts from the old conversion kit in cad to 3d print. I'm doing it the hard way due to not being able to get the parts. I've also completed a prototype torpedo and launcher and tested it in spar time when waiting for parts. Those are too much fun to play with. Still need to design and print a snort valve, as well as get back to work on the hull. But it's been too bloody hot in the shop. Now for a few questions, 1: what was the over all length of the original wtc? 2: what is the spacing between the torpedo launch tubes? And lastly, Are there any dimensions for the torpedo tube mount?

Don't even think about weapons and wood planking till this model is in the water and working surfaced and submerged.

Basics...

... and only when you have a handle on the basics, go for the fancy ****.

Crawl, stumble, walk, jog, run, then... and ony then... sprint.

You ain't ready to sprint, kid.

David

[Qwenther]

I'm way late on the update but here is some progress. I've mostly completed the ballast chamber of the wtc. I also have the bow end cap rigged and ready to install. I'm currently working on the motor bulkhead and the stern dry compartment. I'm also working on designing some of the parts from the old conversion kit in cad to 3d print. I'm doing it the hard way due to not being able to get the parts. I've also completed a prototype torpedo and launcher and tested it in spar time when waiting for parts. Those are too much fun to play with. Still need to design and print a snort valve, as well as get back to work on the hull. But it's been too bloody hot in the shop. Now for a few questions, 1: what was the over all length of the original wtc? 2: what is the spacing between the torpedo launch tubes? And lastly, Are there any dimensions for the torpedo tube mount?

[JohnDora]

Another question. My Revell Platinum version comes with thin timber decking, self adhesive for the main deck and the conning tower. Anyone experience of how it behaves if it gets wet? I tried a scrap on a piece of plastic and have submerged it under water for five hours and no lifting/ parting of adhesive nor deterioration is noticeable. Thanks!

[RCSubGuy]

10” x 2.5” external is about 25cm x 6cm dia internal or about 700 g?

1/16" wall yields 2.375" ID.
44.3 cubic inches or 725g

Yes, my bad.

[Qwenther]

Finally, I have something that looks like progress. I've accumulated a lot of the components going into the wtc. And after many nights of head scratch, impatiently wait on machines, and throwing things, I have at least a few near finished wtc bulkheads, and some of the valves and tanks that go in it. The SAS float valve and the emergency blow tank are still a wip. I've found in my stash of stuff an old 72mhz Eclipse 7 Transmitter that I could use for this build. With 7 channels to play with I should have enough for all the "bells and whistles".

[JohnDora]

10” x 2.5” external is about 25cm x 6cm dia internal or about 700 g?

[Qwenther]

The cylinders I spec for both the Ark VII and the Gato is 2.5" (64mm) diameter and 10" (25cm) in length. Approximately 1000ml capacity.

That's a useful piece of info, thanks. I've been pondering that same question. I was gonna thinking of going for a full 12" tank, but 10" makes my life easier and leaves more room for the battery and other electronics.

[JohnDora]

Thanks Bob, I had to add two 2.5 cm dia additional cylinders within the model ballast tanks for my Arkmodel VIIc to give additional ballast. For the Gato, using the same WTC, I'll add a 6 cm or so dia additional tank in front of the WTC. With the VIIc it's been a success - the water pipe flows 'in series' thru' the two tubes. Both are connected by a 'u tube' that goes beneath the WTC - this avoids air locks.

[RCSubGuy]

The cylinders I spec for both the Ark VII and the Gato is 2.5" (64mm) diameter and 10" (25cm) in length. Approximately 1000ml capacity.

[JohnDora]

I'm building a Gato, started in May this year. Please what capacity is your ballast tank? I'm using an R&R one that fits my Arkmodel VIIc U-boat, it has about 530g capacity, extended with auxiliary tanks as it was too small for the VIIc..

[Qwenther]

Several modelers have successful RCed the Gato with DIY/scratchbuilt parts.

https://youtu.be/mQgM8ewF9jg

I've looked at a lot of these references and have found some useful info from them, especially the part of replacing the bow plane axle and control rods with brass. I thought about doing that anyway. I also intend to use as much of the original model as possible. That said there are still a few parts of the conversion kit that would still be useful, about half the resin cast parts(Parts "A-I,K"). So, I'm still gonna beg, in which case, how? Where do I go to do the grovelling? Also. I need gears. I've found through a lot of reading of HWSNBN's posts that the gearbox on the motor bulkhead has a 3:1 gear ratio using a 36t spur gear that looks to be about 3/4" OD ish and a 12t pinion on the motor shaft. He's said he got em from stock drive, and it looks like he uses those spur gears for almost everything. I know it's been asked but is there a part# for the spurs? I've read all the posts and pdf refs from stock drive and cannot find em. I'm using cad to mock up all the bulkheads to 3d print and having the gear sizes would help. That and I'll need the gears in the long run anyway, and for more than just the gearbox. Or, would it be wiser to go to direct drive? I'm going to use brushless motors about the same size as the original brushed ones anyway.

[redboat219]

[redboat219]

http://www.cliffhangershideout.com/Gato/Gato-log-1.html

[redboat219]

Several modelers have successful RCed the Gato with DIY/scratchbuilt parts.

https://youtu.be/mQgM8ewF9jg