Molch RC - 1:35

[DrSchmidt]

So silicone grease works quite well. Only thing is, that after a longer time without piston movement the piston gets stuck. But I've always been able to wobble it free with the servos. Will test more and see if I can improve this behavior...

https://youtube.com/shorts/q-ZRb81m8MM?si=sKgLGZl7ObgHWNex

The servos for the control planes are attached to the rear bulkhead. I've 3D-printed holding brackets for two KTS servos. Tight fit, looks good as well.

[Schmitty1944]

Amazing work. I will be following this build closely. I worry about the servo driven piston tank. I think that will always be trouble. The water going in and out will wash away the grease and it won't move just when you need it to (especially pushing water out). If it could be geared lower for more torque and less speed maybe? Thank you for documenting and sharing as you go. Very inspiring.

Jason

[DrSchmidt]

My worry as well, that's why I plan to keep it accessible....

[DrSchmidt]

Finished the fixture of the servos for the rear control planes. M1.6 screws and some tiny plastic supports. Small but strong.



Then I prepared the drive motor. Basically I use the same approach as for the pump motor. The end cap is sealed against water using 2 component silicone and the cap itself was attached using epoxy. A difference to the pump motor is that I didn't completely cover the motor with a plastic housing but I left the middle open to get some water cooling as these tiny motor can get quite hot. So it only got the end cap and a base support and was then glued to the rear bulkhead with the servos.





Then I continued with the ballast tank. It's based on a 30 mm inner diameter grp tube. I opened the underside to later have access to the piston of the syringe. Then I glued the bulkhead to the tube. Next step was soldering together a vent tube out of 3 mm inner diameter brass tube. Then I glued the vent tube to the roof of the ballast tank and the rear wtc compartment, that will house the servos. Could have been a bit more straight, but it will work....

[Albacore 569]

Your work is amazing. Like a watch maker. Are you a surgeon? I have a question about the 1/35 scale torpedo with the scraped-out walls.

How will you pass a wire around the batteries from the forward lead to the eventual motor aft. Use a thin (also scraped down) nickel metal strip like used in soldering batteries? Have the nickel strip on the outside of the torpedo and the leads are interrupted. Then somehow when releasing the weapon, it completes the circuit and off it motors away? A magnetic switch?

The batteries will give the model very good longitudinal strength, but thinking perhaps some sort of bumper or buffer in the nose as the plastic might hit the sides of something hard (that's the idea right..lol) and eventually after repeated use make the torpedo leak? The added weight might create enough inertia to crack the nose.

Enjoy these posts, it makes me think.

[DrSchmidt]

No, I'm not a surgeon, I'm a physicist...but I'm also German ;-)

And you have a misunderstanding here. The batteries ate not intended to drive the torpedoes, they are the main battery for the boat itself. The torpedoes will not be releasable, they are just a nice means if getting the batteries out of the way, creating space in the wtc.

[Albacore 569]

No, I'm not a surgeon, I'm a physicist...but I'm also German ;-)

And you have a misunderstanding here. The batteries ate not intended to drive the torpedoes, they are the main battery for the boat itself. The torpedoes will not be releasable, they are just a nice means if getting the batteries out of the way, creating space in the wtc.

Ahhhhhhhhh Smiles. Thank you. Danka.