Doodah Day's Seawolf Build

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Pressure increases with temperature, content does not increase with temperature. You can jam more liquid in when the bottle is cool -- Charge, then quickly discharge (lowering bottle temperature), charge again. You'll get more in there that way.

David,

[jlday1256]

Got it. Thanks.

[jlday1256]

Snort

Note to all, when testing the SNORT pump, be sure to keep it away from your lips...just sayin...

I was testing, got it a bit close to the mouth (hands full, testing for airflow). That little sucker puts out quite a bit of airflow!

[jlday1256]

Oooohhhhh kay. Weekend spent on the blow valve. Learned allot from repairs and taking it apart (and the valve in the bottle). Tightness helps on both. Use a pair of tweezers and tightened them down. Lo and behold, bottle holds about 10 - 15 blows. Works like a champ! I could reverse engineer the system (do I hear China calling?). Just kidding Dave.

Hexane (WD-40) does not work cleaning the Lexan cylinder, nor does a variety of cleaning products. Any suggestions? Started laying out power cables, snort tubes, etc. Couldn't get it all together until the blow ballast situation was solved.

Tried a sample fit on the super magnets on the hull halves (taped temporarily). WORKS! Thinking about how to permanently attach them. Will use about 6 along each side with indexing tabs.

Am also experimenting with a satin/flat black finish. Did some research on anechoic tiles, scaled measurements (they seem to be 10 - 12" square). Came to the conclusion that on a 1:144 boat, they would be barely visible. But, I want to go with the "wet/flat" black appearance, operational markings. Conning tower is smooth with doors and hatches filled. I did use Dave's suggestion and smoothed the transducer squares along the hull. Pictures tomorrow.

[greenman407]

jlday1256, I work next to Macdill airforce base in Tampa Fl. When you drove KC-135s did you fly out of Macdill? I see them taking off all the time.

[jlday1256]

Macdill

jlday1256, I work next to Macdill airforce base in Tampa Fl. When you drove KC-135s did you fly out of Macdill? I see them taking off all the time.

My main bases were Grissom, Griffiss, and Vance (plus various other cats and dogs). I was at MacDill for about a week in 1992 supporting the training wing there. Got to fly an F-16 as well as my KC-135 flights. KC-135s at that time were not assigned to MacDill, so they would send one TDY (temporary duty) there for a week. It allowed folks in the F-16 upgrade training to extend their time over the gulf. Man, wish I was assigned to MacDill....

[jlday1256]

Super magnets purchased were small cylindrical magnets (3mm X 9mm). Did a few experiments on attaching them to the inside of the hull with some sheet styrene. Tried the Cya plus baking soda method (messy) but seem to have great promise in Cya-ing the magnet inside a plastruct tube cut to 9mm. Used filler type of CYA. Plastic forms a good bond with the metal. I can then glue the plastic tube to the hull.

Also, built up the Snort (soldering the controller to the pump) and it tested OK. Would have done more but DANG...the heat was too much. Spent more time in the house painting a doorway.

[jlday1256]

Spent the weekend giving up on super magnets as the sole method of securing the upper hull. Will use a hybrid of super magnets and Merriman's screw/tab on stern. The plastic boat is just too long and the plastic too thin. Results in some twist to the hull that is difficult to contend with. Latest problem is softness in plastic of bow plane dumbbell. Used light pressure to screw it to the control rod and it stripped. The other end seems ok. Will secure with CYA and re-drill. May be a problem with material mix.

[jlday1256]

Still working the twist issue. Last night I got medieval with some heavy grit sandpaper and super magnets. I think I am close to getting this d&%n hull together. As I wait for the various parts to dry, I have been putzing around with the SubDriver. Location of pieces parts is a serious question. Trying to figure an optimum location for the snorkel pump and the receiver. Now I need to get the dang ADF in there too. Dis cut off and hotwire the old switch per DM.

[jlday1256]

Hull Twist Fix

OK, after a fairly long layoff due to my most recent re-marriage (high school sweetheart from 40 years ago) and a battle with a pinched nerve (makes it difficult when you are walking with a cane already), I have finally reengaged with the hull twist. My solution was to add a band mid hull, just forward of the middle transducer. The band is permanently attached to the upper hull and uses a screw/nut combination much like the aft screw suggested by DM. This effectively pulls down the top hull against the bottom half.

I now have a three point connection system to keep the halves together. Used flat-head screws that I deepened the screw slot with a hacksaw blade (used the blade by hand for more control). I then ground the head down with a Dremmel bit so that it is a lower profile screw. Painted the same satin black as the hull, it should fit flush and not be real apparent.

It appears that I need a bit more substantial shim behind the nose to align that seam, but no screws. This should end my hull alignment experience. Now I can concentrate on some final fittings in the Subdriver and linkages.