Doodah Day's Seawolf Build

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  • jlday1256
    Lieutenant
    • Jun 2011
    • 78

    Doodah Day's Seawolf Build

    I have been meaning to post my progress with my Trumpeter Seawolf and 2" SubDriver. I have had the kit and all the applicable pieces parts for almost a month and loving the experience so far.

    I am a retired USAF Lt Col. Airplane driver (KC-135) and a RC sailboat buff. I have been doing rag boats for about 4 years (although I took a year out due to an auto accident - left me somewhat disabled). Anyway, the subs have always been a fascination for me, the real ones and well as what I have seen on the web. I was looking for something that I can work with on days when there is no wind and am not a speedboat fan. Subs seemed like a natural. Not a performance hobby, more of a technical mechanical work.

    The Trumpeter kit is a nice kit. According to Merriman, it has good scale features, although some need some minor tweaking (transducers, bow plane position, Pump Jet).

    I took allot from Merriman's suggestions. It has been a long time since I worked with a plastic kit and his suggestions on adhesives, fillers, and building have been more than helpful. If you are new to subs (both appearance and the WTC/wet hull concept), you have your work cut out for you (I have always hated that expression, it seems it would be harder if someone hadn't cut your work out for you). Anyway, some observations on the build:

    For the first week or so, your life is cutting holes. Seems to go against everything I have ever done with boats. Of course, these are meant to sink anyway. Hole cutting is made easier with a Dremmel tool, a good set of grinding and cutting bits, and a set of small files.

    Merriman's technique for "welding" plastic (grinding a groove, heating sprue and pulling it into a string, using a plastic cohesive to bond it into the groove) is spiffy and works great for those parts that you would never wan't to come apart. I have also become a believer in cyan adhesive and baking soda as a way to build up areas, especially around bearings. I have been thinking about using it to hold super magnets to hold down the top of the sub for access (rather than screws). I already purchased about 20 cylinder magnets from gaussboys.

    The additional fitting, rudders, planes, PJ, provided in the fittings kit are fantastic. Nice finish, easy to work with material, and it really makes the build go quicker than trying to fabricate them yourself. If you are serious about this, you need to snag one.

    Mine came without the prop, which caused some confusion for a few days (since I am new to this and I have this "how does it all work mentality) it really threw me. Caswell and Merriman got me a replacement ASAP. That was a real moment of enlightenment when it arrived. Nice design.

    I have become fond of using Bondo with denatured alcohol. You can apply Bondo to the model and use denatured alcohol to smooth it out before it dries. Saves allot of sanding and it helps the Bondo penetrate small cracks. Also, it does not affect the plastic.

    I will try to post some "as - is" pictures here soon. My life has moved from cutting openings to sanding. Rudders and all planes are attached. Half of PJ is attached as is internal motor bearing. Working on appearance so that I can start with the SubDriver assembly.

    Learning the WTC concept and assembling the SubDriver is like drinking from a fire hose...I have to admit, the videos have been more than helpful to get a better feel for the SubDriver .
    Last edited by jlday1256; 07-22-2011, 11:11 AM.
    Doodah
    If you ignore the problem long enough, it will go away. Even flooding stops eventually!
  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    Moderator
    • Aug 2008
    • 12353

    #2
    Pictures!......
    Who is John Galt?

    Comment

    • greenman407
      Admiral
      • Feb 2009
      • 7530

      #3
      jlday1256, thanks for the advice on bondo and denatured alcohol, I will try that.
      IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

      Comment

      • jlday1256
        Lieutenant
        • Jun 2011
        • 78

        #4
        Pictures to Follow

        Originally posted by Merriman
        Pictures!......
        - Will have some up by this weekend!
        Doodah
        If you ignore the problem long enough, it will go away. Even flooding stops eventually!

        Comment

        • jlday1256
          Lieutenant
          • Jun 2011
          • 78

          #5
          Pictures

          Originally posted by jlday1256
          - Will have some up by this weekend!
          Took a few pictures last night and will load up tonight. Got the new part to hold the gas bottle from DM. Great idea versus the strap...a threaded ring that fits on the gas filler and screws it to the top of the WTC. Needs to be screwed in tightly to insure full contact with fitting on gas supply.

          For what it is worth, if you are a newbie with subs and the SubDriver, I recommend the "Dr. Joycelyn Elders" method of discovery...just play with it (do a search in Wikipedia for her). Take the seals off the bulkheads and assemble the innards. Play with vent/blow mechanism...Play with the servos, motor, all the pieces parts. As Dave says, "All will be revealed". It is all a very simple and elegant solution. If you have to mess with the SubDriver and contend with the seals at the same time, it can be a pain. You also need to learn how to assemble things through the various holes and openings. Long needle nose pliers and a good set of hemostats are handy (so is being married to a nurse). Be sure that when you finally get everything where you want it, you remember to add the seals. If you want to see how it all fits together, review the videos with DM. Especially how to adjust the ballast and the post flight videos.

          I may have a better way (due to my own clumsiness) with a portion of the stern planes. There is a small circular portion that the control rod passes through connected to the fixed portion of the stern plane. They are small and somewhat delicate. I inadvertently snapped one in half in the process of handling. Once I knew that it was damaged, I fiddled with the other half and noticed that it snapped off easily.

          My solution was to add a small sliver of sheet styrene (1/32 thick, I think), a bit bigger than the airfoil shape of the plane, glued to the outer edge of the fixed portion of the stern plane. I also added one to the other "good" side. I then drilled holes to allow entry of the rod on he movable portion. I will have a picture of this.

          The styrene is more pliable and although this extends the total width of the measurement of the sub across the stern planes by about a total of 1/16", it makes for a more durable part that the control rod goes through. This is also the reason I have been slowed down taking pictures.

          Hull alignment is about to make me crazy. Not from a "needs bondo/filling" status but more of a twist status. It would almost help to have a complimentary set of saddles on the top half. I am experimenting with small tabs around the edges that will be backed with super magnets.

          Hull has the first coat of primer (hoping that it will add substance and to prevent the hull twist). Thinking along the lines of marking. I don't want the usual box art marking with the red hull and various shades of black/gray. I want to go more with an operational marking, no conning numbers, flat/sort of shiny black. I want it to look like an evil instrument of national security policy, not a shelf model. I have seen the tutorial for the anechoic tiles but am not convinced that they would be visible on this scale. Any thoughts? I have a few operational pics. The anechoic tiles seems to add a shininess to the surface, rather than flat.

          Also, this boat will be used in a pond. Any thoughts about using some plastic mesh to protect the SubDriver from "pond scum"? Yea, I know, screen doors in submarines....
          Doodah
          If you ignore the problem long enough, it will go away. Even flooding stops eventually!

          Comment

          • jlday1256
            Lieutenant
            • Jun 2011
            • 78

            #6
            Pictures

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            Doodah
            If you ignore the problem long enough, it will go away. Even flooding stops eventually!

            Comment

            • jlday1256
              Lieutenant
              • Jun 2011
              • 78

              #7
              Fifth picture is repair to stern planes.
              Doodah
              If you ignore the problem long enough, it will go away. Even flooding stops eventually!

              Comment

              • Peewee
                Lieutenant, Junior Grade
                • Jul 2011
                • 15

                #8
                A nice repair,
                Ian
                Sane? who knows, who cares?

                Comment

                • jlday1256
                  Lieutenant
                  • Jun 2011
                  • 78

                  #9
                  Some explanation on the photos. Top and bottom hull halves are just laid together. Am still working the fit aspect. Shot of rear bearing and half cut in stern. Sub Driver assembled without seals to experiment with assembly and fit. Note the black tape on bottom (substituted with locking ring sent by DM yesterday). First coat of primer added to firm up hulls, seems to give them more rigidity. Will be working the tab/magnet combination to remedy fit.
                  Doodah
                  If you ignore the problem long enough, it will go away. Even flooding stops eventually!

                  Comment

                  • jlday1256
                    Lieutenant
                    • Jun 2011
                    • 78

                    #10
                    Last night I started "messing" with the blow system, adding canned air and using a spare receiver/transmitter to operate the blow valve. Seems to be a leak in the system. Managed to jizz up the lexan tube with too cold propellant. Will need to remove pieces parts and clean inside, investigate leak. Will continue with indexing tabs PLUS magnets tonight. 4 days of construction since my nurse is on for 4 days.
                    Last edited by jlday1256; 08-03-2011, 02:33 PM.
                    Doodah
                    If you ignore the problem long enough, it will go away. Even flooding stops eventually!

                    Comment

                    • jlday1256
                      Lieutenant
                      • Jun 2011
                      • 78

                      #11
                      Weekend (that would normally be spent in builder activity) spent in Apalachicola Florida. Oysters were superb. Intend to re-initiate build on Tuesday. Issues that need to be addressed: 1) Blow mechanism - getting it together but need to get a better handle on adjustments; 2) Alignment - had the sub sitting in the boathouse (AKA the non-air conditioned shed that sits behind my house where I do all the boat/hobby work) strapped together, in alignment, hoping that some slow baking would assist in alignment. Also will revisit alignment indices and installation of super magnets. 3) Look closer at snort. It appears that a portion may be damaged, misaligned inside.
                      Doodah
                      If you ignore the problem long enough, it will go away. Even flooding stops eventually!

                      Comment

                      • jlday1256
                        Lieutenant
                        • Jun 2011
                        • 78

                        #12
                        Leak on valve inside. Allowed super-cooled propellant to leak out into tube. Seems that the "cap" that is normally soldered to the tube (on the aft ballast bulkhead with the blow servo) was not soldered completely around.
                        Spent my working time analyzing and repairing. Now I need to figure how to clean up the lexan tube.
                        Last edited by jlday1256; 08-05-2011, 01:53 PM.
                        Doodah
                        If you ignore the problem long enough, it will go away. Even flooding stops eventually!

                        Comment

                        • jlday1256
                          Lieutenant
                          • Jun 2011
                          • 78

                          #13
                          WD-40...Dupont says Hexane will clean it...Hexane = WD-40...or toothpaste
                          Doodah
                          If you ignore the problem long enough, it will go away. Even flooding stops eventually!

                          Comment

                          • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                            Moderator
                            • Aug 2008
                            • 12353

                            #14
                            Any Cracking of the cylinder resulting from the quick-freeze. I'll replace if necessary.

                            David,
                            Who is John Galt?

                            Comment

                            • jlday1256
                              Lieutenant
                              • Jun 2011
                              • 78

                              #15
                              I looked closely, no cracks. Just a white-ish stain. Will try the Hexan to remove it. As the propellant warms, will I get more of a blow from it? I am just testing the system and probably bleed it off too soon to get a good read but it seems that the tank doesn't hold much.
                              Doodah
                              If you ignore the problem long enough, it will go away. Even flooding stops eventually!

                              Comment

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