U-Boot type VII/41, Assembly #1

[toppack]

I'll finish the smaller VII later, hopefully after my hand improves from Stroke paralysis.
I have to use a lot of clips, clamps and vises to hold things and they tend to damage the very small delicate parts.

[Outrider]

Hey just as an idea i was looking around for another deck just for venting during diving and I came across a wooden deck made by nautilus models. It has holes everywhere and I think it'll be good but I'm not sure. Does anyone have any experience? Because it's wood I am afraid that more wait is required or some other problem will arise.

The link:

http://www.nautilusmodels.com/U-02/turm2.htm

[Nuke Power]

Stay away from wood at all cost with working boats. It will only end in failure. I have also seen people use the photo etches brass deck for the working models. It makes the thing so top heavy it is unstable and will never achieve scale waterline.

[Outrider]

So then should I just get a dremel tool and go along the deck cutting out holes to achieve what I'm looking do?

[toppack]

I just put holes hidden inside tower.
Only a couple of small holes in deck (at bow and stern), as long as the large vent areas above saddle-tanks are opened up (between hull and superstructure). Don't take out too much plastic there tho or it will weaken the hull too much.

[Nuke Power]

To get what you are trying to achieve a Mill or drill press with an X Y table would be best. I didnt even bother though and it looks pretty good I think. Making all those slats wwill weaken the main deck. Ofcourse that only comes into play depending on how you are constructing your boat.

[toppack]

I thought I would do a little work on my VII, while waiting for Mike to get my model-T parts ready to ship.
Since I need to have the tower removeable, for access to the video-camera mounted in it's base, I found a place to hide the single screw holding it to deck, down under the hatch/tube on upper-gun-deck.
The first pic below shows head of screw (in center of pic), gun-deck is removed.
Second the deck is installed with hatch/plug laying on top of it. I used a short peice of walnut-dowel for the plug, sealed with CA glue.
Third is hatch/plug installed. It fits very tight but is removable for repairs to camera if ever needed.

I'm still having problems with this dang digital-camera.:(

[Nuke Power]

Dont forget to paint/seal any joints you use CA on.
Have you tested the camera module to see what kind of foam it is going to need to stay afloat? Also what does it weigh? On a model this small that amount of weight, that high up, can destabilize it and prevent it from achieving correct trim. I had to GUT mine. Everything that didnt need to be there was removed.
Also a good thing to remember is never use wood.

[toppack]

My VII is just started construction, no flotation installed.
I put in the same light weight video-camera, in the same location, in the Gato I just finished and it worked out great. Since the cameras are mounted in base of tower, almost to deck level, and there's No WTC weight around camera, they are not top heavy. A least it wasn't in the Gato and it will be a long time before I'll do any in-water flotaion testing of the VII, to find out for sure, since I plan to shelve it when I get the T-class parts and finish the VII at a later date.
Since you changed the subject, I guess you didn't like my hidden screw Idea? ;)

[Nuke Power]

Am am just offering the insight that I have. YOu surely must have noticed the size diffrences between the 2 boats.

[Nuke Power]

I have never owned the video system so I could not tell you forsure. I am just saying that the 7 is a delicate balance act.

[toppack]

. I am just saying that the 7 is a delicate balance act.

Yes, I understand completely and appreciate the suggestions. :)
That's one of the reasons I'm switching tracks, over to a larger scale project, and saving the Mini-Balancing-Act for later. :D

[toppack]

I went ahead and installed the 1/8" prop-shafts and tubes in the VII. It was much easier to do than I expected. I used the plastic struts from kit, with no problems. I was afraid they would brake while drilling them but I drilled very slowly and they did great.
I've been working on it to keep from worrying about the T-class order. ;)
At this rate I may have the VII finished before the T-class parts all get here. :D LOL :D

[Nuke Power]

how did you do the shafts? Show pictures.

[toppack]

how did you do the shafts? Show pictures.

I drilled out the hull and struts so stuffing-tubes fit snugly in them and glued them in. I soldered some brass wire onto brass tubes, inside hull, to keep them from spinning or moving and I'll put a big wad of epoxy inside hull around tubes and wire to hold everything in place and to make it ridged. To correct for shaft misalignment to SD, I'll probably use 2 sets of U-joints. One set at internal end of stuffing-tubes and another set at SD output shafts, with intermediate shafts.
I'll use the small Robbe (hose type) shaft couplers. #1445
Those couplers are good to use for low torque motors since they have a safty factor of spinning if the the prop hits something or gets Locked up in something, but don't loose grip otherwise.
Hopefully the props are with the order that's coming. ;)
I'll take pics when completed.