U-Boot type VII/41, Assembly #1

[toppack]

While I was waiting for paint to dry on the Gato, I opened the Revell U-boat kit to study it a little closer and compare the assembly procedure of it to the Gato.
I can see that the U-boat hull is going to be much more difficult to split (top/bottom) and make look as good as I did the Gato.
I was able to hide the split seam gap under superstructure of the Gato but there's no way to do that with the U-boat.
Oh well, that's supposed to be next Winter's project. Just don't know if I can wait that Long? :confused: LOL :D

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Well I started drilling the holes in U-boat hull. There are a great many original holes formed into the plastic already but they are all very small in total area, so I think I'll drill more larger holes at keel. How many are really needed for that model, for good vent/blow action of the Sub-driver?

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I don't think I want to construct the long vent slots, above the saddle-tanks, (of original boats) ? :confused:
That looks way too difficult to modify and still have a strong sturdy RC hull?
(The way Glenn Cauley did his Great display model, See Pic)

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How many holes are really needed for that model, for good vent/blow action of the Sub-driver?

No one seems to want to help me here so I'll just Guesstimate, and give it a try. That's my normal way of doing things Anyway. :p
That usually works out okay. :)

[Albion]

Most of the hull will be flooded anyway. On mine i am opening up the 8 slots on the underside of each saddle tank (4 front 4 back). I think this will be sufficient for diving / surfacing, it is more important to get enough vents in the deck

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Yes I've noticed that there's not many places to hide extra holes in deck/sail, like there is in the Gato model.
I could leave some deck hatches open but that will look strange.

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There are 8 rectangle shaped hatches or something at bottom of each saddle-tank, that I cut out, so I now have 16 more large holes in hull. She should sink Fast Now. ;)
I still haven't got the Idea of 'Making your boat models Sink' wraped around my brain, Yet. :)
I think I'll glue some stainless-steel screen on the inside at those holes so they won't look so open and obvious. Maybe that will keep out large Fish also. :D

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I had already desided to leave the torpedo-doors open, so I'll drill out the 4 tubes, and that will give 10 more large holes (including the 6 in plates above and below doors).
And that will help Flush out those Large Fish and Mermaids that get caught in there. :D

What Mental Problem! ?

[deepseadiver]

let me see more pictures of what your doing im more of a visual man myself. I would say the holes you have all ready placed in the bottom sounds like more then enough. Having the topedo doors staying open i like that idea too.
Jim

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Wow, I thought the rudder-post linkage-arm was difficult to do in the Gato. It's much more difficult in the VII, since there are 2 of them and there's even Less space in the VII hull.
I think I can Link them together with an (L) shaped Arm on one rudder-post but it's going to be a real hassel in that tight space, and still get enough travel of the linkage. :(

I'll take some pics after I get screen-wire attached to inside of saddle-tank holes.
(If it Looks Good, that is) :D

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I noticed another difference, that I didn't expect, in the Gato and VII models. The plastic used in the VII is softer (melts easier) than that used in Gato. (At least it is in the kits I got.)
So drilling holes in VII Gums-up the drill bits faster.
But being softer probably makes it less likely to break accidently. :)

[toppack]

I found some places to drill more hidden holes, for air & water passages up thru sail, at the antenna stowage compartments on both sides of tower.
And under base of upper gun deck.
So it should have enough vent holes in deck/sail, without leaving any hatches open. :)

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I found 2 errors in Instruction booklet for Revell U-boat VII/41. Thought I'd mention them for anyone else building this kit.
On page 12, windows #35 & 36, it shows part # 193 (hand-wheel) being glued to side of gun but should be glued to upper end of seat-bracket #192 and shows the guns seat-brackets (191 & 192) to be glued to gun assembly at the footrests, but should be glued at ends of brackets.
(Shame Be Upon Them!) :D

[toppack]

I think I'll wait about getting the smaller sub-driver for the VII, until my hand improves, and attempt the T-class and the 3.5 SD Next.
Hey, all I need to build IT is a Big Hammer! :D LOL :D
Or 'BFH', as it's known in the Antique Auto hobby. :D

[Nuke Power]

you should do both.