Bronco Type XXIII build
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The cable passes through a small hole in the groove of the pulley and the brass offset screw tightens down on the cable. -
thank you very much David. It is just the type XXIII from Bronco that I have to cut .Leave a comment:
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hello, may you give me some suggestion to make a proper cut of the hull in the vertical plane? like the very intersting suggestion I have read for the horizontal. Thank you in advanceLeave a comment:
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Hope you'll get my parts soon. Looking forward to your next steps be that a horizontal or vertical cut.Leave a comment:
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Yes I believe it would be possible by fabricating components to make this happen. This is where the hull cross section documentation is useful. It is one of the designs I am considering currently in the pre-build planning stage.Leave a comment:
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Thanks. I have not 100% decided on how I’m going to split the hull yet. Meaning vertically using the kit’s provided split or horizontally making a water line cut. For now I am taking the opportunity to document the hull cross sections in 3D CAD while the hull is still intact. This info may be useful later in the build.Leave a comment:
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Nice. How will you join to 2 ends together?
Last edited by redboat219; 08-24-2021, 06:02 AM.Leave a comment:
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Took some measurements of the type XXIII’s hull cross section at the kit’s vertical split today and from there created a solid model bulkhead in CAD. Printed it out in white ABS filament. Here’s how it fit the hull.
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There is a German RC sub kit supplier Maximus-Modellbau who utilizes the vertical hull break on the Type XXIII but he doesn't use the kit's separation instead he a new cut further aft and use a bayonet style locking mechanism to hold the fore and aft hulls together.
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Nick,
My torps are made from aluminum cigartubes, light and allready in the shape of a torpedo, you only have to construct the rearpart, those Bronco torps are indeed not really scale and a tad fatter than 1:35 scale.
As for the SAS, it works fine, only added a droplet catcher in the design of David, that nice whoosh you hear, when leveling the pressure, tends to suck in fine waterdroplets from the rubber seal at the SAS schnorkelhead, using snort is also a good working option, it depends on what you want for yourself, i went bananas with my boat, me like Rube Goldstein.
Tifosi,
The vertical cut was a gamble, i wanted to try that first, it made the design of the SD somewhat different, David gave me a warning about this, trimming the boat was a bit of a nightmare, but turned out well.
Using magnets only won't work, they are not that powerfull with sheer-action, only pulling straight gives you the best strenght, my SD inside acts like a backbone, prefenting the sheer-action, with my Ko Hykoteki i added some pins to give me more strenght, but that boat is a complete different design.
Manfred.👍 1Leave a comment:
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Interesting approach with the vertical cut. I used that for my Type VII and tried magnets as well, but they weren't strong enough to hold it together. I had to add screws.
Given the difficulty of making a horizontal cut, this might be a good approach since the boat is already horizontally split.Leave a comment:
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