Bronco Type XXIII build

[Monahan Steam Models]

Nick,

The type XXIII is a nice little boat, builded mine a few years ago, have enough miles under the belt with driving her with joy, you mentioned the waterline cut, i went for the radial cut, profided by Bronco itself, she is coupled together by using magnets, it will take a few seconds to take her apart and retrieve the SD without using any tools.
As for the torps, i also went that way, take care to get your launcingtubes as far to the hullside as possible, there is not enough room when you use the Bronco torpedo bulkhead to clear the torpedo doors.

Manfred.

Manfred,

I must’ve read and re-read your type XXIII build as well as Tom’s and David’s 3 or 4 times now over the past couple years. Great stuff. In fact I have all three of these builds book marked so I can return to them as reference.

I’ve gone back and forth debating to do the water line cut or using the kits original split as you have done. Both have their advantages. I think if I were to use the split in the hull as you have successfully shown, I would also allow all four hull sections to be separated like you have done with you build as it is the most logical and beneficial means of working on the boat.

Thank you for the heads up regarding the torpedo tube spacing placement. I have not gotten that far in my initial study of the kits components to have noticed that. I realize that you were able to use your 1/35 electric torpedoes from your type VII in your type XXIII. The Bronco kit G7E torpedoes are nice but seem a bit fat for 1/35 scale. They seam closer to 1/32 scale. That being said, I’ve been thinking about possibly using them anyway and making them functional.

How do you like the SAS system on your boat? I was thinking of keeping this build a snort system as I really appreciate the features of this type of design.

Nick

[MFR1964]

Nick,

The type XXIII is a nice little boat, builded mine a few years ago, have enough miles under the belt with driving her with joy, you mentioned the waterline cut, i went for the radial cut, profided by Bronco itself, she is coupled together by using magnets, it will take a few seconds to take her apart and retrieve the SD without using any tools.
As for the torps, i also went that way, take care to get your launcingtubes as far to the hullside as possible, there is not enough room when you use the Bronco torpedo bulkhead to clear the torpedo doors.

Manfred.

[redboat219]

BTW: Somebody could use those torpedoes for a static display (combined with the RC sub) of e.g. the sub being refurbished with fresh torpedoes.

IIRC this boat had a unique technique of loading the torpedoes from the front with the help of a special rig.

Manfred (mfr1964) made a loading cradle for his Type XXIII.

https://forum.rc-sub.com/forum/builder-threads/2413-converting-the-bronco-type-xxiii-to-rc/page25

[tifosi12]

BTW: Somebody could use those torpedoes for a static display (combined with the RC sub) of e.g. the sub being refurbished with fresh torpedoes.

IIRC this boat had a unique technique of loading the torpedoes from the front with the help of a special rig.

I used some of the leftover conning tower parts for the Type II sub Bob sells as 3D files on his website. Happens to be the same scale.

[tifosi12]

Wow! I see atleast 3 sets of torpedo tubes.
Maybe you can still salvage one or two hulls using the technique David just described.

Yeah, those hulls now live in a landfill somewhere.

[Monahan Steam Models]

Wow! I see atleast 3 sets of torpedo tubes.
Maybe you can still salvage one or two hulls using the technique David just described.

I believe what Tifosi12 is saying is those boats are on forever patrol

[redboat219]

Wow! I see atleast 3 sets of torpedo tubes.
Maybe you can still salvage one or two hulls using the technique David just described.

[tifosi12]

Here are my left over Bronco kit pieces. Some are still in their plastic wrapper. What's missing are the hulls, which I tried to cut time and again and failed at it time and again.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David can you discuss the technique for making the cut surfaces match and level to minimize the visible seam.

You build up material lost to kerf by either gluing on a cap-strip of comparable thickness.



Or you apply a filler (traditional Bondo type or CA-baking soda grout) between masking tape dams that you later block sand down to the appropriate height.



David

[redboat219]

David can you discuss the technique for making the cut surfaces match and level to minimize the visible seam.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

If I recall correctly from David's Revell Gato RC conversion DVD when he made the longitudinal cut to the hull using a Dremel he didn't do it in one continous running cut from bow to stern instead he made intermittent cuts along the hull like a set of dashes --- --- --leaving small sections of plastic supports that connected the top and bottom sections to prevent the hull buckling. Once the required length of cut to the hull was achieved he then went back and cut those columns.

... And it was not one continuous feed of the cut-off wheel into the work. The parting of the hull halves was accomplished through short, quick stabbing strokes, stopping when the plastic got gummy from excess heat. And the magic trick, that assured a perfect cut and minimal material loss to kerf: a rock steady moto-tool holding fixture that fixed the blade in height. And a rock-solid mounting of the hull to the work surface so it does not scoot around as you make the equatorial cut.


David

[redboat219]

If I recall correctly from David's Revell Gato RC conversion DVD when he made the longitudinal cut to the hull using a Dremel he didn't do it in one continous running cut from bow to stern instead he made intermittent cuts along the hull like a set of dashes --- --- --leaving small sections of plastic supports that connected the top and bottom sections to prevent the hull buckling. Once the required length of cut to the hull was achieved he then went back and cut those columns.

[tifosi12]

You might also check online for some extra decals. They do exist for this type of sub and its scale. The ones that come with it are somewhat limited and not the easiest to make stick to it. This is all that remains from my project:

[tifosi12]

The original plan to split the hull was going to be carried out with the same method David and Tom used in their original builds as I already have all the tools and materials to attempt this method. My hesitation going ahead with that method is mainly what you have described with the heat build up and also the parts moving or flexing during the cutting. I’ve used my dremel to make cuts in plastic models in the past with good results but the heat and vibration is a real problem.

What I plan to attempt to make the cut now is to first carefully scribe a line horizontally down the side of the hull using a flexible metal straight edge as a guide. I’m thinking I will bond the forward and rear hull sections of each side together first and make the cut to each hull half while it is laying flat and secured down to a build board. If successful in creating a single straight scribed line, I may then decide to finish the long cut carefully with a razor saw.

Well that’s the plan currently. Now let’s see how bad I actually screw it up!

Again, good luck.

I glued the front and rear sections together as well. Your approach with it lying down is probably better than mine where the Dremel was in the drill press and I moved the hull along (kinda like cutting lumber). And a razor saw also sounds better. I hope you succeed.

[Monahan Steam Models]

The original plan to split the hull was going to be carried out with the same method David and Tom used in their original builds as I already have all the tools and materials to attempt this method. My hesitation going ahead with that method is mainly what you have described with the heat build up and also the parts moving or flexing during the cutting. I’ve used my dremel to make cuts in plastic models in the past with good results but the heat and vibration is a real problem.

What I plan to attempt to make the cut now is to first carefully scribe a line horizontally down the side of the hull using a flexible metal straight edge as a guide. I’m thinking I will bond the forward and rear hull sections of each side together first and make the cut to each hull half while it is laying flat and secured down to a build board. If successful in creating a single straight scribed line, I may then decide to finish the long cut carefully with a razor saw.

Well that’s the plan currently. Now let’s see how bad I actually screw it up!