Arkmodel 1/48 scale type vii uboat model

[greenman407]

I need another submarine like I need a HOLE in my Head! Now that thats been expressed let me tell you about my newest project. I saw one of Bob Martins Youtube videos about a kit he has been working on. Im very excited about it so Im in the stages of getting one from him as he is selling them. That takes the guess work out of Dealing with the Chinese manufacturer. Checking with HWSNBN hes thinking a 2&1/2" cylinder should work, but he hasnt seen one of the models yet.
So why am I buying this kit? TO BUILD OF COURSE! Whenever I get enthused about a new kit and get it, then it helps motivate me to continue on with other projects that I have already commited myself to. For example...right now I need to be working on my Scaleships Oscar retrofit. And I am, but I also need to finish my 1/72 Revell Gato, my Nautilus Drydocks Disney Nautilus and my Mamas Pitsilis SKYDIVER. All projects that have been started and have been interupted for various reasons. Here is the links to a couple of Bob Martins videos on the subject.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TX7_yVASuRw
Heres the second chapter:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=koGuTPB4F1U

[greenman407]

Silentrunner777 is the first person besides Bob Martin to get one of these things that I know of. Hes impressed which helped further my confidence in getting one.

[silentrunner777]

I will start working on mine over the next few days. It would appear that once the control surfaces are built, the slop tends to disappear, will see. I'll get some pics posted up so HWSNBN can guestimate a WTC size. I am leaning more towards a 3".

Michael

[Albion]

I need another submarine like I need a HOLE in my Head! Now that thats been expressed let me tell you about my newest project. I saw one of Bob Martins Youtube videos about a kit he has been working on. Im very excited about it so Im in the stages of getting one from him as he is selling them. That takes the guess work out of Dealing with the Chinese manufacturer. Checking with HWSNBN hes thinking a 2&1/2" cylinder should work, but he hasnt seen one of the models yet.
So why am I buying this kit? TO BUILD OF COURSE! Whenever I get enthused about a new kit and get it, then it helps motivate me to continue on with other projects that I have already commited myself to. For example...right now I need to be working on my Scaleships Oscar retrofit. And I am, but I also need to finish my 1/72 Revell Gato, my Nautilus Drydocks Disney Nautilus and my Mamas Pitsilis SKYDIVER. All projects that have been started and have been interupted for various reasons. Here is the links to a couple of Bob Martins videos on the subject.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TX7_yVASuRw
Heres the second chapter:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=koGuTPB4F1U

I like the fact theres someone else with too much on his plate, except for the fact you keep making progress.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

OK, the first guy to get his hands on this kit:

Determine the maximum length a 3" and a 2.5" cylinder will go in there. The after end must be no less that 5" from the forward end of the stern tubes (propeller shaft fairings). And let me know the distance between shafts.

Weigh the sail. Weigh the hull and divide that number by 3, that number representing the approximate weight of the above waterline portions of hull. Weigh all the do-dad's that mount above the waterline. Add it all together and I'll assume that number to be close to the weight of the water the ballast tank has to hold. The specific gravity of fresh water and polystyrene are close enough to make this work. A little geometry and I'll know the length of the ballast tank for the diameter SD we settle on. I'll crank in a ten-percent fudge factor (better too much ballast tank than too little!).

I have two-motor, two-shaft motor bulkheads for the 3" and 2.5" cylinders. The other components are common and also on hand. I could have a beta test unit out within three days of getting those numbers.

It would look something like this:



This, of course, is the Revell 1/72 Type-9. A good stand in for a 1/48 Type-7, so follow along and see what I'm talking about

[greenman407]

Bob Martin is presently out of stock and thinking about ordering more. If anyone wants one let Bob know so that yours will be getting ordered as well. Dave, the moment mine hits the door I'll start getting you your info

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Bob Martin is presently out of stock and thinking about ordering more. If anyone wants one let Bob know so that yours will be getting ordered as well. Dave, the moment mine hits the door I'll start getting you your info

First in with the dope I'm demanding will be the first victim ... er .... beta tester.

M

[type7]

I don't have the numbers yet but I have started looking into this. Bob Martin shared that he used a 2.5" sub-driver because it can be dropped in from the top. The kit construction makes it difficult to do it any other way without making extra cuts to the hull. I dropped in my gato sub-driver into it and it looks to be about the right size. Any longer tube would be difficult to fit since the hull necks down at the front. The plastic is thicker on the Arkmodel type VII than the revell kits so it will seems like it will need about the same water volume in the cylinder. Looks like a gato or type IX snorkel will fit in the conning tower. Now all I need is another snorkel. Have you considered selling them separately?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I don't have the numbers yet but I have started looking into this. Bob Martin shared that he used a 2.5" sub-driver because it can be dropped in from the top. The kit construction makes it difficult to do it any other way without making extra cuts to the hull. I dropped in my gato sub-driver into it and it looks to be about the right size. Any longer tube would be difficult to fit since the hull necks down at the front. The plastic is thicker on the Arkmodel type VII than the revell kits so it will seems like it will need about the same water volume in the cylinder. Looks like a gato or type IX snorkel will fit in the conning tower. Now all I need is another snorkel. Have you considered selling them separately?

No, that kind of stuff bogs down the catalog and becomes an inventory nightmare. E-mail me. dmeriman@aol.com

M

[silentrunner777]

I will have a scale next week to weigh this out. The WTC can be installed quite easy through removal of 3 bolts holding the rear section. The deck is completely removable, but under the deck are the upper hull support beams. A 3.5" WTC slides right in, but is limited by length. A 3" WTC would fit if not over 24" length O.A. This is allowing 5" from the prop trunks to the rear of the WTC. 1 hull reinforcement brace in both the center hull and aft section would have to trimmed out to allow the cylinder to fit, Same mods with a 2.5" , but it could be up to 26" LOA.

[greenman407]

If the internal volume of the ballast tank on the Gato Subdriver proves to be too small to lift the Arkmodel, it can be increased by moving the forward bulkhead of the ballast tank forward, increasing the ballast tank volume but reducing the battery compartment size. You could then buy two smaller LIPO batterys and hook them up in parallel to restore your battery capacity when using the smaller space. The present dimensions for the spaces in the Gato Subdriver is 11&1/2" for the ballast area and 5&7/8" for the battery area. Not a big deal.

[trout]

Looking at the picture with the 3" cylinder, it maybe too large. Not much room for ballast or foam. 2.5" might be a better way to go.

[type7]

Yes, 2.5" looks like a better way to go. The aft end does attach with 3 screws however the mid section overlaps the aft and the bow section overlaps the mid section. This means that you have to dis-assemble the hull into many small pieces to get the sub-driver out if it is too big to drop in thru the deck. Someone did not think this through when they designed the kit.

[type7]

Greenman, you are right about the volume change but with this system there needs to be enough air volume inside the sub-driver to fill the center buoyancy tank to surface. I think it is close to the limit right now even with a small battery up front in the cylinder. The sub-driver will have more than enough power to drive the Type VII.

[greenman407]

Ok......I think I see where you are going with this. Mine has the emergency gas ballast system in place so I wasn't worried about that so much