There's not much major construction left on this boat. There is mostly working through the inner components of the boat. Installing the Subdriver and the prop shaft. I've ordered a propshaft from the UK but it's taking forever to get here. I'm kind of held up with e few aspects of the build because I'm waiting on a accessory for my lathe that will allow me to use my keyless tailstock chuck to be able to drill holes in brass parts for either propeller shafts and also the brass collar I want to make for the fore planes. This Arbor is holding up everything.
Once I get hold of this I can start developing the design of the propeller. As seen in the photo's it's a really interesting double four bladed offset design. I don't know what the benefit of a design like this would be. I will probably design and build mine in two stages.
Anyway... The subdriver that I am using is the same as the one in the Resolution. The diameter is the same however the driver will not sit as high in the hull as it does in Resolution. The reason for this is because the valve that sits on the top of the ballast tank had plenty of clearance within the missile hull of Resolution. This allowed me to place the Subdriver higher in the hull and as a result moved the motor shaft which is in the lower half of the rear bulkhead higher and the resultant dogleg coupling had less bend. Mike has very little clearance at the top of the hull. The small pipe that extends up above the valve has had to be bend forward in order to clear the underside of Mikes rear hull just behind the sail. needless to say the dogleg will be greater on mike.
The shaft will be reasonably short as a fair distance will be taken up with the double dogleg universal coupling.
I've drilled holes up into the bottom of the teardrop profile on the hull where the sail fits. This is for draining and trapped air to escape once dived. Through one of the holes the air pipe for the subdriver air line extends. Another small hole is for the small bolt that is mounted in the sail and attaches via a nut into the hull effectively securing it. I do this simply so that sail can come of for easier transportation.
The reactor coolant scoops underneath the hull need a little bit of sanding and then a light grey primer spray. Once I have done this I will be gluing to their required location on the undersides of the hull. They will eventually be painted in an anti-foul red that is found on almost all Russian Subs. I have decided however to give the anti-foul the 'north Atlantic' treatment. It will be a faded terracotta shade. Looking at the top of the hull I am determined not to make the hull absolutely black. Having a look at heaps of dry dock images of soviet boats it's clear that the black is more of a gunmetal grey black.
I wanted a weathered look all over. I was tempted to ask Scott (Hardrock) for a favour, even though I owe him a few and get him to weather it has he is "da weathering meister ". I couldn't quite find the right dark grey that I wanted. Something that looked black but wasn't quite. So I decided to do something a bit unusual and see if it would work. I simply got a can of black and a can of grey primer and used them at the same time. After going over the whole of the upper hull and waited for it to dry. A nice hot 30 degree day, done in no time. The actual result looks way better than I expected.
Once I get hold of the propeller shaft I will install that and then reasonably soon should be the first in the water shots of her running. I have also been working on a website to look at selling kits. If you are interested they are selling for $140 AUD plus p&p . Contact me.
David H
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