Newbie no more - Building the Revell 1/72 Gato

[Subculture]

A shaft needs to be threaded using a lathe really. You mount the shaft in the chuck, and use the tailstock to ensure the die is square, spin the chuck by hand and gradually wind in the tailstock to push the die up against the tip of the shaft. Trying to do it the way you are is a recipe for disaster.

[Kazzer]

Good grief! It looks like a slaughterhouse there! Seven shafts messed up? What are you doing? :-)

Perhaps this is a good argument for not using brass shafts?

[trout]

The Props are on!

Let me digress....... In the beginning there were several choices for propellors. I went for the Raboesch prop. They are pretty, but it is threaded. So, fellow newbies, use the ones in the fittings kit! I was enticed by the bright, shiny, brass props. So I bought them. After some time it was shared that the thread is 5-40. Jay aka beeryboats lent me his die (an amazing man!). For the life of me I could not get threads on without destroying the shafts by twisting, gouging, bending and well you get the idea. Maybe you don’t. Here is a picture of the threading attempts.

This does not do the damage justice because some of the shafts had a cork screw in them and others I cut and re-used. I destroyed two sets of shafts plus a lot of brass rod. I had a second fittings kit set aside for the next Gato.
While searching around, I found mention of two types of dies (there are more than that, but for my purposes two), hex and adjustable round. The hex was mentioned for rethreading and repair. The slotted was for threading rods.
Jay used the hex. With brass, after countless tries, I could get a so-so thread on (Jay you are the man!), but destroyed it with twists. To get any kind of straight thread, I would have to taper the end considerably to get it to work and clamp the heck out of it. Steel shaft just would not happen. Once I discovered the info on the adjustable round, I went ahead and got it and a handle.

I played with the adjustable round, first on brass then on my last shaft from D&E fittings kit. The brass also gave me an idea of how much thread the prop actually took. Now I felt confident to put a thread on the ones David very generously made for me. The other key thing I discovered is using the right vise (DUH!). I have a shop vise that rotates on a ball to allow me to adjust angles and it has a smooth surface on one jaw and a v groove along the length of the other jaw. Prior attempts using a regular vise and locking pliers to prevent the shaft from spinning in the vice led to this, another picture of shame, the twisted shank.

Once I used the smooth vice’s v groove, that stopped me from needing to use the locking pliers and prevented the torque from reaching the area the Dumas coupler connects to. Are my shafts perfect? One came out great. the other has a slight offset (caused by uneven pressure from one side allowing the die to travel slightly off-center). It should be O.K., I will see how it works later. Need to move on!

[trout]

Couldn't resist the urge to add the hand hold.

After looking at lots of pictures of subs, I kept seeing the forth step at the bow, so I drew mine in from a pattern I made off of the Revell Gato line drawing in the instruction book.
Then drilled out the initial opening.

Using a small half round file, began opening the opening to match the pattern. At the same time, I would alternate with grinding out the back of the opening.

I made the top way to high, so I added a little Nitro Stan filler around the opening to correct some shape issues I had, then wet sanded the area.

I will worry about the primer paint a little later.

[trout]

Crud. Thanks David for the info.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

White (open-cell) Bad!

Blue and Pink (closed-cell) Good!

David

[trout]

@Jay, thank you, I do not have a foam cutter. Great suggestion.

@Mike Thank you! I think I am O.K., unless the pink has better bouyancy characteristics. Your thoughts are valued! White vs. Pink, sounds like a movie I remember...hmmm.

[Kazzer]

Anybody want to sell me Pink Foam? I searched and to no avail. I talked to a Home Depot and they can special order it for ~$1,500 (it appears there is a minimum order to get it in). Is there a different source or type?
Thank in advance!

Am I too late here?

Send me an address and I'll mail you some. FOC

How much do you need for this boat?


Owens Corning Foamular

[beeryboats]

Tom, if you don't have a hot wire foam cutter, you can try an electric carving knife to cut the stuff. It works really well on the white stryofoam board I used on the train set, it should work ok for the pink stuff.
Jay

[trout]

Thank you tsenecal! I went on-line ordered a sheet (about a half hour after you posted). The store called me to tell me the bad news. The sheet was damaged and they were so sorry, but they would give me a discount (it was only $8 and some change with tax) When I got there (my first shock was how big 4'x8' really is), the lady offered it at half off if that was o.k. - I said sure, if I must. I have enough foam to build the 1/72 Typhoon Akula - oh heck let us go 1/32!
Again thank you for the great direction! another piece off my list!

3/4 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Foam Insulation Model 310873 Store SKU 483214 Internet/Catalog SKU 202530470

[tsenecal]

check and see if they have "R-Tech Foam Insulation" sheets. the homedepot website claims it is available in las vegas in different thicknesses from 3/4" to 2" in 4' x 8' sheets for $8 - $19... I haven't looked for it in my store here, but it looks like some of the styrofoam stuff i have used in some of my subs.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202530470/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

[trout]

Anybody want to sell me Pink Foam? I searched and to no avail. I talked to a Home Depot and they can special order it for ~$1,500 (it appears there is a minimum order to get it in). Is there a different source or type?
Thank in advance!

[trout]

Thank you Jay! We will continue to hope for the best. The toughest part is explaining to Sam (7) about what is going on.
I ordered the pre made cables to go between G and J servo connectors and RX. This is temporary as I hope that sometime in the future I will get the WFLY 8 Ch radio and a Sombra Labs Receiver.

There is a feeling, I cannot express adequately, when I came to this point. The connecting of the Propellor shaft to the WTC. I hope this feeling happens with every sub I build. I will AGAIN mention get the DVD by David. He goes through this step so well! I am doing it only because of what he teaches.
Take a measurement between the end of the propellor shaft’s Dumas coupler and the WTC Dumas coupler. Cutting the aluminum tube is so simple. Who knew? Yes, I know you did. All I had to do is roll the edge of my x-acto along at the point I wanted my cut, and bend. It snaps at the place it is scored.

Cut the nylon Dumas coupler in half, insert one half in each end, and test the fit. It will look something like this.

Next using 1/16” bit, drill through the tube and nylon coupler.

Tap a piece of 1/16” brass rod through your newly created hole.

I trimmed the ends close and hammered it down using a jeweler's hammer. The black marking was used to make sure the end did not shift prior to being drilled.

Two shafts ready for install.

And of course, here they are installed.

[beeryboats]

Tom,
Sorry to hear about your dog. We've had more than our share of dealing with pets over the years. I feel for you. As for a test tank, mine is frozen or will be in about two days. In your area I can't believe you, or a friend, don't have one in the yard. I'm not rushing the build as I won't see fluid water for months now.
Jay

[trout]

I posted a question to Sombra Labs (they were very quick to respond) and buying a RX to work with my antiquated Futaba system is a no go. and some sad news, my budget just taken a hit. My dog has cancer and we will be doing a surgery in a couple of weeks.