Sub Driver for D&E Skipjack - size?

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  • roedj
    Captain
    • Sep 2008
    • 563

    Sub Driver for D&E Skipjack - size?

    David,

    I probably missed a memo somewhere but the Sub Driver I got with my used Skipjack is 3" OD. The replacement SD25J(A or K) is 2.5". Is this correct?

    My God man, my fat little fingers need more room not less.

    I probably don't need a new Sub Driver, although the old one has seen better days, but I thought I'd get some experience assembling a new one which I may be able to use in more then one sub while trying to salvage as many parts from the old Sub Driver as I can.

    Aside from my whining about the smaller size is the new one pretty much a "drop in" replacement for the old one? I realize that the sub will have to be rebalanced and new push rods made and new saddles made and... Forget what I said about "drop in".

    BTW, I know I'm on thin ice here but you know what would be really neat? If the tube between the battery compartment and the engine room passing through the ballast tank was large enough to pass a standard Futaba connector then electronics could also be mounted in the forward compartment with the servos in the back. I've done this on another sub and it's slicker then owl (droppings). I mounted the receiver up front to get it as far away from the motor as possible. The extended length of servo control cable did not seem to cause any trouble, YMMV.

    Dan
    Born in Detroit - where the weak are killed and eaten.
  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    Moderator
    • Aug 2008
    • 12349

    #2
    LOL. As you figured out in the middle of your above screed, the 2.5" SD will take a bit of work to integrate into a boat configured for the 3" SD.

    A fair request about the over-size conduit tube. But, doing so reduces the floodible volume of the ballast tank. So, suck it up, cut and splice wires if you want more gizmo's up front.

    David,
    Who is John Galt?

    Comment

    • Subculture
      Admiral
      • Feb 2009
      • 2126

      #3
      Or just (carefully) remove the pins from the plug and pass them through, then reassemble at the other end. Simples!

      Comment

      • roedj
        Captain
        • Sep 2008
        • 563

        #4
        Sir,

        1) I have not had historically a lot of luck reassembling connectors so that they actually work again, and
        2) Even if I could do it, if you mount the receiver in the front, all of the servo cables must go through the pass-thru tube to the servos in the back (4+ channels worth) and DM's tube just isn't big enough (sorry if that sounded a bit personal there).

        Dan
        Born in Detroit - where the weak are killed and eaten.

        Comment

        • He Who Shall Not Be Named
          Moderator
          • Aug 2008
          • 12349

          #5
          And, in an instant, the topic goes careening off the cliff.

          David,
          Who is John Galt?

          Comment

          • Subculture
            Admiral
            • Feb 2009
            • 2126

            #6
            Ha!

            You can always make a custom loom. The positive and ground wires are common, so you would only need a separate signal wire for each channel used.

            Perhaps that may fit. Never tinkered with one of Dave's cylinders, so I'm not familiar with the intricacies.
            Splitting connectors and reassembling is a piece of cake- all you need is a flat bladed watchmakers screwdriver and a bit of dexterity.

            Comment

            • roedj
              Captain
              • Sep 2008
              • 563

              #7
              Originally posted by Subculture
              You can always make a custom loom. The positive and ground wires are common, so you would only need a separate signal wire for each channel used.
              Sir,

              I knew that but had not taken it into account. That is a very good idea. Thank you.

              Dan
              Born in Detroit - where the weak are killed and eaten.

              Comment

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