Trumpeter seawolf sd leak

[reddevil]

Hi again from Madrid. My SD has begun to have important leaks trough the rear part. If you remember, I changed the shaft and its seal (you kindly send me a new one), but it seems to come from one of the seals, mainly the shaft one, but can't positvely identify it. I've coated all other possible places with sealant, but it keel coming. Any suggestion?
Thank you very much.
Juan Carlos.

[reddevil]

I've dismantled the whole Sub Driver and checked all the seals; seems to be OK, but, keep leaking.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Have you used a flexible hose between the SD's equalization valve (with the Schrader valve removed) and your lips to slightly pressurize the submerged SD to identify the leaks via the location of the air bubbles released?

David,

[reddevil]

(Glups!!!) No. Once again the best is the most simple and poor mortals doesn't realize about. Thank you, Sir.

[reddevil]

The on / off and rudder pushrods seals were the ones that leak and, also trhough a crack in the fore part of the tube, right by the o ring between the dry space and the ballast tank. The problem with the seals easy to solve changing the leaking seals, but How to repair the leak trhough the crack in the tube.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Is the crack originating from one of the securing screw holes machined into the cylinder? A picture would help here. An interim fix is to place some Electrician's tape over the crack.

David,

[reddevil]

Yes, right over one of the screw holes. I'll take a picture.

[Kazzer]

This may be worth a try


Prod 81730

PERMATEX® Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer Wicking action silicone "seeks the leak". Flows into hidden and hard-to-reach areas. Forms a tough, waterproof, durable, clear seal that is resistant to weather, extreme temperatures, vibration, shock and most shop chemicals. Fills surface voids and irregularities. Temperature range -80°F to 450°F.

Suggested Applications:
Windshields, sunroofs, windows, headlamp assemblies, marine glass, RV vents and windows.

[reddevil]

HEre Are some pics of my subdriver wwith the cracks.




I also send you a pic of what I've done with the rear bulkhead. I've changed two seals with own made. No bubbles now through them. The black sealant cord is to avoid the tendency of this bulkhead to move when closing the sd, even though you operate the schrader valve at the time.


It looks like the water leak is smaller but keeps coming from the rear, because when I balance the sd fore and aft, the water appears coming from the rear. But THERE ARE NO BUBBLES now from any of the items astern, and I've made the check with the motor running.

A copule of pics more from my small shipyard: The two fishes I'm dealing with now, and the wtc for the bigger one, a wiew of a supply ship of my former company, scratch made up from original drawings, scorted below by a SEAWOLF.
Have a nice day.

[reddevil]

Yesterday I put a reply with the pictures. Received a message telling me that it'll be posted after forum's moderator survey, but havent' appeared.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Yesterday I put a reply with the pictures. Received a message telling me that it'll be posted after forum's moderator survey, but havent' appeared.

Your post with pictures came in just fine. And good work on the scratch-built ship, by the way.

You have an old style SEAWOLF SD. Would you be up to transferring all your gear into a new, smaller, better designed SEAWOLF SD? If so, send me an e-mail with your mailing address. DMeriman@aol.com

David,

[reddevil]

Aye aye, Sir. E- mail sent.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Very good. Got it. We'll fix you up.

David,