Started Skipjack now WTC query

[Jocurran]

I have ordered the fittings kit and easy driver WTC which appeared to be in stock on the website but apparently not, so whilst waiting for these I have started work on the kit cutting holes etc in the meantime.
However I would like some advice, should I go ahead with the easy driver WTC or just change and go for the 3.5 SAS as being the most cost effective option in the long run. I want to stick with the 2.4 Ghz radio for the moment for various reasons and if I fitted the SAS Driver and extended antennae into the periscope would the SAS driver operate to bring the sub back to the surface on loss of radio signal (hope this is not too confusing)
Also Still not found the Skipjack WIP thread yet so would appreciate some direction

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I have ordered the fittings kit and easy driver WTC which appeared to be in stock on the website but apparently not, so whilst waiting for these I have started work on the kit cutting holes etc in the meantime.
However I would like some advice, should I go ahead with the easy driver WTC or just change and go for the 3.5 SAS as being the most cost effective option in the long run. I want to stick with the 2.4 Ghz radio for the moment for various reasons and if I fitted the SAS Driver and extended antennae into the periscope would the SAS driver operate to bring the sub back to the surface on loss of radio signal (hope this is not too confusing)
Also Still not found the Skipjack WIP thread yet so would appreciate some direction

Get the SAS SD and there will be no need to ever look back.

In submerged trim the boat, dead in the water, will float with about half of the sail sticking into the air -- this represents about two-ounces of reserve buoyancy. Box compression will reduce this the deeper you go, so don't count on it to bring your boat up if it goes deeper than five-feet.

When using the 2.4gHz gear, as soon as the periscope-antenna goes under the motor will stop do to loss of signal. The boat will slow, and because it is slightly buoyant, will once again stick the periscope-antenna above the surface, where the radio signal is once again received by the model and you're back in control.

Additionally (and this is the direct answer to your question), when the signal is lost, the model slows, the fail-safe kicks in and the SAS operates and uses some of the air within the SD's cylinder to blow ballast water.

Keep in mind: if the model slows when completely underwater, without your direction, the fail-safe kicked in and the LPB starts sucking air from within the SD's dry spaces and dumps it into the ballast tank. This creates a slight vacuum within the dry spaces. You are then compelled, once you regain control, to broach the entire sail so the open snorkel induction valve can admit air into the SD, breaking the partial vacuum produced during the fail-safe event.

The manual you need to study is a PDF. You'll find it here: http://support.caswellplating.com/in...l-instructions



M

[trout]

Jocurran,
Here is a link to my build of the Skipjack, it follows the instructions listed above. Here is the link: http://forum.sub-driver.com/showthre...Skipjack-Build
If you have questions there is a bunch of guys here to help you!
Peace,
tom

[Jocurran]

Thanks to both of you for your information, Trout I have copied yours and Greenmans Builds and have Dave's PDF Build Instructions which I am finding to be great guides.
Dave thanks for the comments about the SAS SD compared to the easy driver I have decided to change my order to the SAS SD but up to now have not been able to do so as I am not getting a response to my messages to Sub-Driver I guess the 13 hour time difference between NY State and Western Australia is not helping

[Jocurran]

Now I have the 3.5 sub driver I have a query about the snorkel float, reading greenman's excellent build thread there seems to have been an updated float (grey colour), the one I have is the longer (pink colour) float which seems to have some problems can anyone clarify this for me

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Now I have the 3.5 sub driver I have a query about the snorkel float, reading greenman's excellent build thread there seems to have been an updated float (grey colour), the one I have is the longer (pink colour) float which seems to have some problems can anyone clarify this for me

What's the problem???? Can't help you if you don't explain!

Both versions of the vertically oriented float work.



M

[trout]

The pink foam version works great. If you are concerned you have an earlier version, do not fret. I used the pink one in my Skipjack and it works great.

[Jocurran]

I don't have a problem yet as I am just about to start on the build up of the sail, I was just a little confused after reading Greenman's build thread about which one was the current float it was appearing to be the grey one in my reading of the thread but of course it looks as though I was wrong (not for the first or last times I suspect) thanks for helping out guys��

[Jocurran]

I don't have a problem yet as I am just about to start on the build up of the sail, I was just a little confused after reading Greenman's build thread about which one was the current float it was appearing to be the grey one in my reading of the thread but of course it looks as though I was wrong (not for the first or last times I suspect) thanks for helping out guys

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I don't have a problem yet as I am just about to start on the build up of the sail, I was just a little confused after reading Greenman's build thread about which one was the current float it was appearing to be the grey one in my reading of the thread but of course it looks as though I was wrong (not for the first or last times I suspect) thanks for helping out guys

You're doing fine. Keep blasting away with the questions. If you get stupid, I'll say so. You've plunked down a lot of money, and you don't want it sunk on the bottom because you got the induction side of the SAS wrong -- I hear ya, pal.

Too many guys played it cheap (WTC) and lost their boat in short order. This is the one game where you're precious r/c vehicle can be lost forever only feet from the shore-line! Careful is good.

M

[Jocurran]

Thank you Mr Meriman, just to let you know that the packet of very useful bits have just arrived so I can finish the drive shaft and push rods and finish the Skipjack hull off.
I have another query as I am well on with outfitting the sub driver now, but if I connect the Balast Servo and LPB on to one receiver channel with a Y lead when the control is operated the LPB runs fine in both directions but the servo does not move at all. I am using a Robbe FC-16 and the throttle on a slide rheostat so I have spare channels to split the 2 units which way do I go?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thank you Mr Meriman, just to let you know that the packet of very useful bits have just arrived so I can finish the drive shaft and push rods and finish the Skipjack hull off.
I have another query as I am well on with outfitting the sub driver now, but if I connect the Balast Servo and LPB on to one receiver channel with a Y lead when the control is operated the LPB runs fine in both directions but the servo does not move at all. I am using a Robbe FC-16 and the throttle on a slide rheostat so I have spare channels to split the 2 units which way do I go?

Time to break out Occam's Razor:

1. Does the servo work? plug it into another channel or to a servo-setter

2. If the servo works, you have a bum Y-lead

3. Is the ballast sub-system servo linkage jammed?

Sorry to be so late with the parts, but glad they finally made it to you.

M

[Jocurran]

Just got around to testing again, as per Occams razor
1) the Servo works plugged into a receiver channel as does the LPB when plugged into a channel
2) If both plugged into Y lead LBP works no movement on servo, if servo or LPB plugged into Y lead on their own they work and work in either Y as tested s Y lead is OK
3) servo linkage appears to be moving and operating valve.
4) have tried both 5 & 6 volts from the BEC with the same results
Is there any problem operating the LPB and ballast servos from different channels as shown in one of your circuit diagrams, I thought of using the slider for the LBP and a stick for the ballast servo

Good report. Bad results. This sounds like a job for Superman! ... err ... I mean Kevin McLeod.

Kevin! Help!

M

[KevinMc]

Just got around to testing again, as per Occams razor
1) the Servo works plugged into a receiver channel as does the LPB when plugged into a channel
2) If both plugged into Y lead LBP works no movement on servo, if servo or LPB plugged into Y lead on their own they work and work in either Y as tested s Y lead is OK
3) servo linkage appears to be moving and operating valve.
4) have tried both 5 & 6 volts from the BEC with the same results
Is there any problem operating the LPB and ballast servos from different channels as shown in one of your circuit diagrams, I thought of using the slider for the LBP and a stick for the ballast servo

Good report. Bad results. This sounds like a job for Superman! ... err ... I mean Kevin McLeod.

Kevin! Help!

M

Huh? What??? Me?????

What receiver are you using?
I wonder if there's not enough signal to drive both the servo and the pump controller in parallel. An "active" Y-lead would do the trick I bet, but I'm not sure if anyone makes one. If you're happy to use separate channels there's no down-side I can think of to doing that, I just like to keep my setups as simple as I can to operate.

Let me know about the rx, we'll get it figured out!

[Jocurran]

I'm using the Robbe Futaba R118F Reciever, 8 Channel, 40 MHz Receiver