D&E 1.25 Sub Driver assembly???

[MrMopar]

I just purchased the Revell Skipjack SD and fittings. Are there any instructions available anywhere? Seems to be an orphan as I can not find any info anywhere. I am not new to RC or scale models, but I am new to submarines, and it would be a big help if I could at least get some info on where/how to modify the model's hull, and some detailed pictures of the SD assembly.

Thanks in advance for any help available.

[jlday1256]

I was in the same position with the 2.0 and Seawolf. There is a lot of information on the Caswell site that you just need to read/watch and absorb. To the best of my knowledge there are no: 1. do this, 2. do this, 3. do this, instructions for assembly. Even some of the Cabal reports that Dave Merriman has done for the Seawolf, are incomplete and have images missing. Right now Dave is cleaning up from Hurricane Irene (he is in Norfolk). But, he is very responsive to thought out questions. Don't expect him to hold your hand all through assembly.

Watch some of the videos on the SubDrivers, then, I recommend that you take a day, or a few hours at least, get together everything that you have (parts for the 1.25), and free lance it. You will find the basic design simple, elegant, and it will make sense (only eventually). I think some of the best information on the concepts involved and assembly are with the videos. Don't look for just the 1.5s, look at all the sub driver information. Initially, you will feel like you are drinking from a fire hose, but it will all come together.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I just purchased the Revell Skipjack SD and fittings. Are there any instructions available anywhere? Seems to be an orphan as I can not find any info anywhere. I am not new to RC or scale models, but I am new to submarines, and it would be a big help if I could at least get some info on where/how to modify the model's hull, and some detailed pictures of the SD assembly.

Thanks in advance for any help available.

Let me know your questions and I'll address them here in the form of a picture how-too, with text.

David,

[MrMopar]

Let me know your questions and I'll address them here in the form of a picture how-too, with text.

David,

Thanks for taking the time to respond. I will try to keep things simple and to the point. It would be of immense help if I could get a picture of the assembled 1.25 subdriver that is of sufficient resolution that it could be studied (enlarged) showing placement details of the components. I can be e-mailed though this forum.

Explanation of how you mounted the servos in the servo box (mounting tabs, some kind of rail, etc.

Best way of mounting the lexan covers on the servo box (permanent or are they intended to be removable).

Any info/dimensions on the required cuts for the actual Skipjack model. I know how to set one up to scribe a desired cut line and make the actual cuts, I just want to make sure I cut it in the right place the first time.

Location of desired CG.

With this info, I should be good to go, I have been modeling and converting models to RC (cars and a lot of surface boats/ships) for over 40 years, so I don't want to give the impression that I am looking for a step by step instruction book. That would take a big part of the fun factor away!

I did a lot of research on your products and those of others, and I was very impressed with the quality you put into your products. I don't have any issue spending $$$ for quality. I went through the Caswell site and purchased nearly everything for the 1.25 subdriver except a receiver at this point. I also purchased quite a bit of additional hardware and components and a small SNORT system as I plan to do some serious building of some smaller scale subs over the winter. Right now besides the Skipjack, I have a vintage 1/180 scale USS Flasher, a 1/144 scale German 206A, and should have the three 1/144 scale trumpeter kits (Gato, Seawolf, Kilo), and a Dragon 1/350 scale Ohio class (have not seen physical size of that one yet) in the next week or so.

I am looking into micro minature components for these and will be looking to build in as much function as is possible into each.

I would be very interested also in some longer sections of the 1.25 lexan tubing, possibility of getting an interim bulkhead to allow additional sections to be added, and a blank aft bulkhead that I could play around with some dual drive configurations.

As I mentioned before, I have MS, so my outdoor physical activities are somewhat limited anymore, and since I love tinkering and I just put in a new 27' diameter pool for the wife, I might as well use it for a personal submarine diving zone. It gives me over 4 feet of water depth. While a 1/72 scale Gato would likely be easier to build because of the size, the minature subs are a much better fit for my diving domain and provide more of a challenge.

Thanks for getting back to me.

[Kazzer]

MrMopar

You should enter this into our competition. Do a step-by-step build with lots of photos. It will help us and encourage other, so you'll get extra Brownie Points. (Shouldn't that be Cub Points?)

[MrMopar]

MrMoparYou should enter this into our competition. Do a step-by-step build with lots of photos. It will help us and encourage other, so you'll get extra Brownie Points. (Shouldn't that be Cub Points?)

Which one? I assume the Skipjack. I can certainly do a step by step, will look into entry requirements.

With the 2011 contest ending in a couple months, I would just be getting started, so would be better to start a build thread for 2012 contest. Can start basics soon, but not sure where would be best to post.

Deal on other kits went south (deep sixed), so likely ordering trumpeter 144th gato, kilo, seawolf, chinese 33g, and revell viic kits tomorrow so I can get an idea of their layouts this fall.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

MrMopar,

MS is a *****. I assume you're not in a chair yet and that you can still get your elbows off the table. Yes, the smaller model submarines are a good choice, both for the pool size you have and the ease of assembly and use for the weak.

Sorry for the delay in getting to you, I've been busy with some production and other work of late and only today found the time to address your questions with the care they deserve.

Mike and I developed the 1.25 SubDriver just for those 'smaller' plastic model kits of submarines out there -- only recently, with the advent of the small ADF and other devices from Kevin McLeod; the super-selective receivers from Sombra Labs; and MTroniks little ESC, has such a small WTC been possible.



You wanted some shots of the 1.25 SD, here they are. So far we've only gone to market with the 1/230 SKIPJACK SubDriver. When time permits we'll develop dedicated 1.25 SD's for the other 1/144 and 1/350 sub kits out there. Note that the standard single-motor motor bulkhead can be adapted to produce two counter-rotating outputs -- from this single motor bulkhead you can drive one or two shafts. And I've included shots showing off different sized servo boxes -- the longer one is configured as an X-tail mechanical mixer which is what is needed to control the tail-feathers of the Revell 1/144 Type-212 sub kit. I've also provided shots showing off the devices you'll need to outfit your SD, MrMopar.



Though not in production I've included a shot of the SD that we're testing in the Revell 1/144 Type-214 sub kit -- this one features a ballast system. However, you can forget using a gas type ballast sub-system in these tiny SD's! The blow valve, plumbing, and on-board bottle required are items that just don't scale well in the smaller sizes. So, keeping with the idea that these smaller submarines are 'pool toys', and will not be lost in deep water, we're using a LPB to empty the ballast tank on future versions of our 1.25 SD.



You wanted to know the bow and stern cut points to convert the Revell 1/230 SKIPJACK to r/c work. The following shots should help you out. Put the center of gravity in the center of the boat.

[MrMopar]

Thanks for getting back to me, the info will certainly help a lot. If you have them, would like to see some close ups of a gas system as I have numerous subs to play around with. Yes, MS is a *****, but there are others who are far worse off, it's not generally terminal. I am still able to walk, but somewhat limited. Fatigue is the biggest issue. But back to the subs. From the pics, I would say the cover plates over the servos are semi-permanently installed. What adhesive was used? I am intrigued with the end cap on the 1.25 long version with the LPB installed.

I would also be interested in some "adapter" caps to stagger tube sizes. For example, going from 1.25 to 1 inch tube, or other size combinations.

Right now I have the following sub kits;

DML 350^th scale Typhoon (20 inches)(wide hull)

Revell, 350^th scale “Kursk”, (17.75 inches) love this sub, wish it was a bit bigger scale. While there is room in the hull, the prop shafts are directly in line with the rear dive planes (horizontal). I may have to offset the shafts down just a bit to clear a horizontal shaft for the dive planes.

Dragon, 350^th scale set of the USS Dallas and a Soviet Alfa. While not marketed as being from “The Hunt for Red October”, it’s age and box art sure appears that it was aimed at that market. These are both small, Dallas about 12 inches, and the Alfa at only 8 inches, but nice cylindrical hulls, single screw.

Revell 230^th scale Skipjack with D&E 1.25 Sub Driver and Fitting set.

Nichimo Wolfpack IX-C, 200th scale, highly detailed, (15 inches)

Revell, 1/180^th scale, USS Flasher SS-249, US Navy WWII Gato Class Fleet Submarine, 21 inches long.

Academy Models U-Boat 1XB 1/150th Scale, 20.5 inches long. This is an old kit, originally designed as a motorized diving submarine. The hull construction is interesting, several parts combine together forming different compartments. Will likely cut out all internal structures to make room for a WTC. One nice feature, it has molded in slots in the bottom for the supplied ballast bars. Deviates from original that it is only a single drive, but for a “scale looking” unit to run around in the pool, it should work out okay.

Nichimo, 150^th scale Japanese type B1 submarine. Also originally designed as a motorized unit, appears to be highly detailed. About 21 inches long, but only about 1.5 inches wide.

Trumpeter 144^th scale 1944 GATO (26 inches). This is also one I am looking forward to, a little bit bigger scale, should work out nice. Too bad no fittings set available for this one.

Revell 144^th scale U206A, German U-Boat (13 inches!) This is one I had for a long time, it is small, but should work out okay, the single shaft helps. Forward planes are weird, one curves up, and opposite curves down. Must have been to counteract torque roll??? Not sure how these will work out!

Revell 125^th scale U99, German U-Boat. (21 inches) hull has almost no molded in detail, it's almost smooth.

If you want any specific dimensions, or test fit for anything, let me know.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Sorry, I don't have any 'adapter' bulkheads.

I've got most of the kits you've listed and have studied how to adapt our 1.25" cylinder to work in each case.

Wish I had the time, but don't.

Got specific questions, ask away and I'll help.

David,

[MrMopar]

Will there (or is an) end cap be available for the 1.25 with the LPB fittings as shown in the pics?

Is the longer 1.25 servo section and internal o-ring cap available?

Is there a blank 1.25 end cap available that can be drilled/machined by the builder for various drive setups/fittings? I would be very interested in getting all of the above.

What is the smallest prop you cast that would be available?

Have you looked at the Special Navy 1/72 German Type IIA? Looks like a nice kit, is on the Christmas list..

I am really anxious to get started this fall after we finish the garage remodel before it gets cold here!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Nope, that stuff's not available yet. Just the one SD for the small SKIPJACK. I'll get to 'em when I can. But, not this year.

David,