Tweet
My sub model has a solid hull with no way to split it. the top of the hull has nothing on it and I have to make decking and cover it. I am cutting the decking from 1/8 plastic. I am have glued a few blocks to the inside of the hull so that I can screw the fore and aft permanent deck to the sub. I am wondering how I can attach the 3 foot removable center section and stiffen it up to sit flat on the hull. How should I attach it so it is easy to remove but will hold firm while in use the hull is only 3/8 of an inch thick along the top
-
-
Pictures!!!!Who is John Galt? -
you can't see the blocks that are mounted on the side but they are about 1 inch square and 3/8 thick. I am drilling into the 3/8 thick side to attach the fore and aft deckingComment
-
OK, your proposed thick plastic deck will be way, way too heavy. Use the same wood-glass construction as you did for the hull.
I assume this is a free-flooding type r/c model submarine. Tell me about this removable center section: is it a box, cylinder, what?
David,Who is John Galt?Comment
-
the mounting block I am gluieing to the hull is 1 inch square by 3/8 thick so I can put a small screw throught it. the decks are cut out of 1/8 thick plexi. it will lie flat on the top of the hull. the center removable section will have a conning tower and deck mounted on it but will also be flat except for those two things. it is a very old kit from the 80's and not as well detailed as the newer kits, especially the hull details. mostly finished in late 80's but I was side tracked. Lost plans but rembered enough to finish it 4 years ago and it sank on its maiden voyage, too many leaks in watertight compartments would develop. you could hear joints stress and crack while lifting it. bought your wtc and took crowbar to inside. remaking every wooded fixture out of plastic, redesigned dive planes. even fore plane guards. I can not remember if this was said to be a type 7 or 9, I think at the time it was just advertised as a german u boat. only the deck is removeable everything else stays put. the deck gives me access to put the wtc inside. I have to figure out how to stiffen center deck but be able to secure it so the flow of water on the conning tower does not dislodge it but so it is easy enought to acess when I need tooLast edited by robert lipsett; 05-23-2010, 11:59 PM.Comment
-
the wood in the center of the sub was what was left of the original water tight bulkheads. the glassing was an attempt to keep the center ballast tank from leaking into the water tight chambers with no sucess. I just cut them to make a cradle for the cylinderComment
Comment