Bleed!!!

[Kim Sleep]

Ok, so Im trying to cover up divots in a hull created by gluing the supports to the inside of the hill with glue that effected the surface on the other side. I filled the divots with standard red body filler, and sanded it as smooth as a babys bottom. This was done a month ago, so the Filler was definitely dry.
Ive sprayed the hull with a gray Primer, and this bleed thru has appeared in all the areas where the Body Filler was used.
Ive never seen this before. Should I seal the effected areas with a thin painting of Super-Glue to seal it??
I
...what the hell??

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You never know what paint chemistry you get with Krylon, Rustolium, and the other big rattle-can purveyors of 'primer' -- the *******s keep changing it! I've learned over the years that the only sure-fire, almost benign primer to use is the DuPont 31S or Nason acrylic lacquer based automotive primers. You squirt strange primer at strange painted items to taka-u-chances!

So, how to fix this god-awful mess you got yourself into? Sand it down to even things out. Just enough, don't go nuts. Paint it with a water-soluble acrylic paint to shield what's already on the hull. Proceed from there with primer, paint, and clear coat of same type.






















David

[Bob Gato]

Well-if the red body filler was nitro stan - almost any solvent dissolves it whether it was dry for two days or two years. Krylon regular primer has some strong aersol solvents in its formula (heck it might even melt your plastic if sprayed wet enough)-if I were going to use it, I'd dust it on very light and dry many coats. I do prefer the original, rustoleum automotive (old school in a rattle can) primer(not that new crap 2x)..never had a bleed thru. And yes, as Dave said the automotive lacquers are awesome but you can't get it in small quantities.

PS-nitro stan is a glazing putty, not a body filler...and shouldn't be used for much more then filling sanding scratches - is meant to be used over the primer and will also melt your plastic if you put it on thick enough.

[Kim Sleep]

Holy cap you 2, you have blown my mind!.
I went to Kryolan because the only thing that can be found here in Canada is the 2x coverage paints...and they are JUST HORRIBLE, and will fill ion details in one coverage. I cant seem to get any Lacquer here, except for Black, and White...which sucks.
The place where I filled the Divots was VERY shallow, altho wide...I dont know what the glue was that caused such plastic warping, and the Body Filler was just the run of the mill red BONDO stuff that comes in a tube, off the shelf, nuthing fancy.
While Im no Merriman, I have been painting for what seems like a million years without any of this nonsense...but Im used to just quickly painting stuff that has been blown out of a Vacuum Forming machine, or just Thermoforming...CRAP!, Ill let you know how this turns out!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Holy cap you 2, you have blown my mind!.
I went to Kryolan because the only thing that can be found here in Canada is the 2x coverage paints...and they are JUST HORRIBLE, and will fill ion details in one coverage. I cant seem to get any Lacquer here, except for Black, and White...which sucks.
The place where I filled the Divots was VERY shallow, altho wide...I dont know what the glue was that caused such plastic warping, and the Body Filler was just the run of the mill red BONDO stuff that comes in a tube, off the shelf, nuthing fancy.
While Im no Merriman, I have been painting for what seems like a million years without any of this nonsense...but Im used to just quickly painting stuff that has been blown out of a Vacuum Forming machine, or just Thermoforming...CRAP!, Ill let you know how this turns out!

Yeah. The problems start when strange paint goes over strange paint. The rule of thumb, when paint chemistry was well defined, when the Earth was still warm was, enamel over lacquer -- fine. Lacquer over enamel -- bad Ju-Ju. Now we have epoxy, vinyl, urethane, polyurethane, acrylic (of various vehicle types), Esters, oils (petroleum), fish-oil (old rustoleum), and every other molecule under the sun.

Long ago I went with honest to god automotive refinishing products for their system compatibility, UV protection, abrasion resistance, and support (auto supply houses will color-match to suit any chip you feed their machine) Hobby and box-store rattle caned paint SUCK!

But, if you have to use rattle-can paint, decant it and apply with a proper spray-brush/gun.






















David

[Kim Sleep]

Lets face it David...Im never reaching your level of excellence...no way, no how...Period!

[Kim Sleep]

After a light sanding, and a cover of clear, and another layer of Primer, its mostly been covered up. Thankfully, this will be painted flat black, so it probibly wont show. OOOOOH The troubles I get myself into.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

After a light sanding, and a cover of clear, and another layer of Primer, its mostly been covered up. Thankfully, this will be painted flat black, so it probibly wont show. OOOOOH The troubles I get myself into.

Good. Now stick with that brand/type of paint and clear-coat and it should be smooth sailing from here on in.

David