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Hello i'm new.

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  • Hello i'm new.

    Hi All

    I've been interested in making/building a R/C submarine for some time and whilst looking for some information about modeling with R/C sub's i have stumbled across your site.

    To be completely honest i haven't done much at all with R/C stuff, though i have done a fair bit with modeling Star Trek starships.

    So now i'm interested in going one step further and getting into R/C submarine's - though i'm a little lost as where to start.

    i do like the
    U-Boat Typ VIIC/41 if that's somewhere that i can start.

    Hopefully you can help me out and point me in the right direction



  • #2
    The Revell Type VII is a neat model, and actually a 'collectors item' as it is out of production by Revell now. I have a number of these in stock, along with the fittings kits.


    Another starter model is the D&E 212

    Let us know if you need any more help.
    Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!


    • #3
      Another recommended kit is the Trumpeter 1:144 Kilo. That kit is well suited to RC and is an easy build.

      You'll want to think about what you're most comfortable with regarding materials. The basic options are polystyrene and glass reinforced plastic (GRP).

      The Type VII and the Kilo are both off-the-shelf polystyrene models that can be adapted to R/C use. Caswell sells David Merriman's fittings kits for these two models. The fittings kits have been engineered to make the conversion to R/C process so much the better. The fittings are mostly resin, with some cast white metal bits. These get grafted onto the stock kits, often improving accuracy as well as functionality.

      The other assembly option is GRP, which most would call fiberglass. The D&E 1:96 212 is a good example of a small kit engineered for R/C. Working with GRP is different than with polystyrene, at least as far as the chemistry is concerned. The D&E 212 does have an excellent set of instructions, something that should take the pain out of the learning process.

      The 1:72 Type VII is about twice as long as the 1:144 Kilo (which in turn is pretty close in size to the 1:96 Type 212). The fittings for the Type VII are more challenging than those for the Kilo because there are more parts for the Type VII and tighter confines to deal with. Another point in favor of the Kilo is that it's still in production and cheap to boot, so if you don't like the results, you can buy another hull and fittings kit. WTCs and the associated electronics are the expensive part of the hobby.

      What's different about R/C from scale modeling is that performance matters. You want to think about where you'll be using the sub before you get your heart set on one. If you're using a public pool, lack of size matters. You want something that will turn a tight circle and maneuver freely in the space you have available. Otherwise, you may as well stick to a static model. (I'm not saying you have to have a dinky R/C sub--just that a very large boat with bad handling characteristics could be a frustrating choice in a small pool.)

      If you're not going to play in the pool, it's a different ballgame. Bigger = easier to see, which is a real advantage.

      Lucky for you, you can find just about any size boat you'd like at Caswell.
      Last edited by Outrider; 11-25-2010, 07:55 PM.


      • #4
        R/c Submarining is not the place to start out. Too hard. Start with something simple, like r/c cars, boats, planes, and helicopters.

        Crawl, then walk and eventually, run.

        You don't jump out of the Virginia running ... you'll trip on the damn cord! Same with this game.

        Get some r/c time under your belt driving the simple stuff.

        "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"


        • #5
          Yeah I agree pretty much with David but I would lean more to a simple maritime subject over land and air options.

          A good start in the marine RC modelling world would be a simple tug boat kit.
          This will teach you the basics of:
          - a radio controlled system;
          - water tight integrity;
          - ballasting and weight distribution;
          - controlling a radio controlled device in a marine environment.
          It will also require you to do some basic RC assembly, which if you haven't done it before is quite a bit different to assembling a static display kit.

          You can buy the little Dumas Carol Moran Tug online for under $100 - that's but one example. That pretty much comes with everything except radio gear.
          Having a good understanding of the basic radio controlled devices and their limitations is the best start you can make.

          John Slater

          Sydney Australia

          You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
          Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.



          • #6
            Look you lot, if the guy wants a model sub then quit with the scare stories and help him out. Look Blackorchid, get a kit from D&E, you wont go far wrong but read the instructions and build it to them, don't deviate, don't think you know better ( you don't) just read, digest and do the work and all should be well. Years ago I produced some sub kits and they were not easy to build but the guys who followed the instructions to the letter ALL got a good working sub. Some thought they knew better and f***ed it up. One or two of these idiots were leading lights at the time and bad mouthed the kits cuz THEY couldnt read I guess. Check out this site and you will have a good choice of model to choose from just dont be too ambitious first time out.
            A type VII is a LOT of work, cutting the holes will drive you mental alone. The second best feeling known to man is when his r/c submarine surfaces safely for the first time and if you dont know the best feeling then you shouldnt be playing with model boats just yet.


            • #7
              I pretty much agree with Ron, but I think you should get straight into submarines, if that's what you ultimately want to do. When I started there were few people selling WTCc complete and I chose the wrong one, it being a sort of 'experimentation kit', but with gas, which was a nightmare. To make matters worse, I chose a rather poorly laid up fiberglass model. There I was, trying to make a WTC and struggling with trying to be a real model maker, having to make many parts from scratch with poor instructions.

              Things have much improved since then, and so I'd recommend that you buy a plastic injection molded model, and a ready made Sub-driver. Try a Trumpeter Kilo first, a nice pool boat that should be easy to build, few holes to file out too. There's only a few parts to glue, so you'll have it built in no time. Best of all, it's about the cheapest boat out there. Next choice, the D&E German 212. I hope this helps.
              Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!


              • #8
                There you go then, I'm not on my own. Take no notice of David(Oscar the Grouch)Merriman. He just doent want to do the work. When your boat is done and working you can then have a look at other more ambitous projects but whatever, your gonna have a ball. Keep in touch with us lunies on here and dont sail in lumpy water.


                • #9
                  Well i certainly haven't given up on my plans
                  I have purchased the VIIC/41, I've nutted it all out and am well into installing the fittings kits for it.

                  I shall keep you all updated.


                  • #10
                    Post some photos then please.
                    Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!