Seaview - LPB hook up

[dave_mcwhite@cox.net]

I ordered the Small LPB system from Caswell Plating for my Seaview model. The directions that came with the Small SNORT unit shows how to solder the the Mini Pump Controller on to the Pump and then how to connect it to the RF Reciever (SL-8) and to power. But at the Seaview Web Page David Merriman posted, it shows that he doesn't use this controller at all. He replaces it with a SUB ES1 Electronic Switch instead. What should I do, throw away the Mini Pump Controller that came with the unit? And purchase the SUB ES1 Electronic Switch? Or stay with the Mini Pump Controller? And if I stay with the Mini Pump Controller, do I Power the controller from the 5V side of the ESC with BEC (That came with the Seaview Sub Driver) or do I power it directly to the Battery 7V leads? I noted David made sure he isolated the red wire of the ES1 switch from pulling any motor current off the reciever bus. Do I need to do something similar if I keep the Mini Pump Controller?

Any comments appreciated.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I ordered the Small LPB system from Caswell Plating for my Seaview model. The directions that came with the Small SNORT unit shows how to solder the the Mini Pump Controller on to the Pump and then how to connect it to the RF Reciever (SL-8) and to power. But at the Seaview Web Page David Merriman posted, it shows that he doesn't use this controller at all. He replaces it with a SUB ES1 Electronic Switch instead. What should I do, throw away the Mini Pump Controller that came with the unit? And purchase the SUB ES1 Electronic Switch? Or stay with the Mini Pump Controller? And if I stay with the Mini Pump Controller, do I Power the controller from the 5V side of the ESC with BEC (That came with the Seaview Sub Driver) or do I power it directly to the Battery 7V leads? I noted David made sure he isolated the red wire of the ES1 switch from pulling any motor current off the reciever bus. Do I need to do something similar if I keep the Mini Pump Controller?

Any comments appreciated.

Those shots were taken before Kevin's switch were available. The ES1 Electronic Switch is not recommended. Use the MPC offered through the Caswell catalog.

Do not disconnect the MPC red wire.

(your stuff goes out tomorrow -- I was delayed till I secured some white metal for the bell-crank you needed).

No, you power the MPC off the battery, NOT off the receiver bus -- see the below schematic:

[dave_mcwhite@cox.net]

Powering the Sub Failsafe Module?

David,

Thanks for the schematic on how to wire up the variouse electronic components. However, the Sub Failsafe device that you refer to as just "Fail Safe" has a seperate Power lead into it too. Your schematic doesn't show what to do with that Power Lead? Do I connect it to the + & - wires from the battery, like you do for the ESC/BEC and LiPo Guard and LPB Switch? So there are now 4 devices directly connected to the battery?

Sincerely,

Dave McWhite

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David,

Thanks for the schematic on how to wire up the variouse electronic components. However, the Sub Failsafe device that you refer to as just "Fail Safe" has a seperate Power lead into it too. Your schematic doesn't show what to do with that Power Lead? Do I connect it to the + & - wires from the battery, like you do for the ESC/BEC and LiPo Guard and LPB Switch? So there are now 4 devices directly connected to the battery?

Sincerely,

Dave McWhite

Nope, the type fail-safe circuits I'm talking about only draw their power from the receiver bus, not directly off the battery; the fail-safe does not parallel off the main battery cables.

Look at the schematic again.

(Your stuff went out today, look for it Tuesday or Wednesday -- thanks for being patient with me).

David,

[dave_mcwhite@cox.net]

Sub Driver Failsafe

Thanks David.


For clarification: I should cut off the small 2-wire plastic power plug from the end of the two wire Power cord that exits from the "Sub Driver Failsafe"
(Item "GTFS" that I purchased from the Caswell WEB page. For your INFO you should include a description of what this power line is for and where to hook it up to with the sale of this item. The enclosed instructions do not mention the need for power at all).
Then I should find another plastic fitting that matches those used to plug cords into the RF Reciever (i.e. SL-8 I purchased). Taking note to put the red and black wires in the matching (2 of 3 cable slots available), and then plug it into the RF Reciever.
Since I purchased the 8 slot SL-8 reciever I have two open slots #7 and #8 which I am not currently using. Plugging the Dub Driver Failsafe's power wires into one of these two open slots should work right?

Also I wanted you to confirm that I should not be running from the LiPo Guard to the failsafe feature of the ADF and then into the Sub Driver Failsafe unit and finaly into the Ballast Servo. As I origionaly planned.
OR
But what your diagam suggest is don't use the ADF's fail safe at all, but only use the Sub Driver Failsafe between the LiPo Guard and the Ballast Tank Servo, is that correct?

One last question, how does the Sub Driver Failsafe know the RF unit has lost signal? Does it get this from the LiPo Guard or does it it's knowledge by tracing the data wire back up thru the LiPo Guard and to the SL-8 connection? And what purpose does the independant power cord from the Sub Driver Failsafe unit provide? Shouldn't it get it's power thru the 3 wire feed from the LiPo Guard and back up the the same RF Receiver? Or is there a limit to how much power each connection (1 to 8 in the SL-8) can provide, and that by placing too many items in series there may not be enough power to finaly feed the Ballast Servo?

Sincerely,

Dave

[mickelsen]

David,

Your schematic shows a 10A fuse on the motor. I haven't seen that anywhere in the Seaview before. Do you use one in the Seaview? Where and how do you mount it?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David,

Your schematic shows a 10A fuse on the motor. I haven't seen that anywhere in the Seaview before. Do you use one in the Seaview? Where and how do you mount it?

If you're using the MTronics or other ESC that has internal over-load protection, forget the fuse.

The schematic presented was generic.

David,