Resurrecting a D&E WTC 3 skipjack after 13 years

[Peter W]

I personally would remove the paint before using CA you will get better purchase. You will also need to then fully seal the CA with paint etc otherwise when it gets wet it will fall off.

Peter

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

boiling water for the resin stuff.

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

boiling water for the resin stuff.

M

[llangston1]

Well after digging through the archives and junk in the garage I managed to find some original parts and information that came with the sub. I have the original D&E manual and the Greg Sharpe Skipjack numbered drawing. However there is no legend for the numbers so I have no idea what the numbers items are. Does anyone have a legend for that drawing? I also found the bag full of the original hull and sail parts (zincs, cleats, bollards, periscopes, masts, etc). I would like the know what goes where on the model and how do the metal parts attach to the painted hull and sail? Do I need to scrape off the pain or will CA attach through the paint. Do the cleats need to be recessed so only the horns are above the hull surface? which scope or antenna goes on which mast? other than the larger snorkel mast the rest all look petty much alike except for their length. Also several of the masts are slightly warped probably due to years in the hot garage. Any suggestion on how to flatten them so they are straight? Will heat soften them enough so that weight will flatten them out? I don't want to melt and ruin them. Here are some pics of the parts I found.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I'd like to get that TX but it might need to wait for Christmas! Does it convert between ground and air freqs? I might want to do both in the future?

Yes it will -- the RF section on that transmitter is a removable module. You can plug in any band

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I'd like to get that TX but it might need to wait for Christmas! Does it convert between ground and air freqs? I might want to do both in the future?

Yes it will -- the RF section on that transmitter is a removable module. You can plug in any band

M

[llangston1]

I'd like to get that TX but it might need to wait for Christmas! Does it convert between ground and air freqs? I might want to do both in the future?

[Slats]

Site Technical issue in this thread: -, why is David's posts appearing doubled up? i.e. 2 posts of the same one after the other.

J

[Slats]

Site Technical issue in this thread: -, why is David's posts appearing doubled up? i.e. 2 posts of the same one after the other.

J

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Buy this: http://www.sub-driver.com/electronic...ansmitter.html

Buy it NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Buy this: http://www.sub-driver.com/electronic...ansmitter.html

Buy it NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

M

[llangston1]

I am not sure my old Tx has end point adjustments. I have an old Futaba Attack 4 radio and servo package that I bought back in '96 when I got the sub kit. I have no manual for it.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Nice work on the hull.

1/16" pushrods recommended.

When you put this beast in the water, use your transmitters end-point adjustment feature to dial channel-3 (throttle) down to 30%-30%. Jack it back up as you learn how to drive this bullet. This things a rocket.

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Nice work on the hull.

1/16" pushrods recommended.

When you put this beast in the water, use your transmitters end-point adjustment feature to dial channel-3 (throttle) down to 30%-30%. Jack it back up as you learn how to drive this bullet. This things a rocket.

M

[llangston1]

I am still working on my old 1:96 Skipjack resurrection. Slowly but surely its coming back together. I got the hull painted and am still working on the WTC. I have replaced the old ballast tank vent and blow valves since they were leaking and need to do some final adjustments on those. I have a question on control rods. Can you use 1/16th brass rods or are they considered to be too flimsy for control surfaces? The original rods were larger (3/32?) but had the plastic snap on ball joint connections that I am replacing with the newer magnetic connections. I need to replace the rods that connect to the rear control yokes but don't have any 3/32 rods but I have several 1/16th rods. Here are some pics of the painted hull.