Acrylic Vs. PVC Tubing for WTCs

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I noticed that Clear PVC (polyvinyl chloride) tubing is made in the sizes needed for our WTCs. I think that it would be less likely to Crack (at screw-holes, etc.), like Acrylic (plexiglass) does.
PVC seems to be about the same price as Extruded Acrylic (less than Cast Acrylic).
Has anyone tried clear PVC or know why it would not be good to use?

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I found one possible negative about PVC pipe. The Clear is Not completely clear, it has a Blue tint. I don't think it's enough to block vision, but not sure if you are looking for small condensation droplets?
I'm not sure if it's all blue like that or just some companies make it that way, but I think it's all blue?
Click Pic:

[Kazzer]

PM Merriman about it. He told me why Lexan is best, but I forgot it. I just know it is and that's that!

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Yes, I know that Lexan is much more durable than Acrylic but it is also much more expensive. So I was hoping to find a plastic that was in the 'Happy Medium' range on both cost and durability. ;)
I just didn't realize there was Clear (or almost clear) PVC pipe, before, and was hoping it might 'Fit the Bill'. :)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Yes, I know that Lexan is much more durable than Acrylic but it is also much more expensive. So I was hoping to find a plastic that was in the 'Happy Medium' range on both cost and durability. ;)
I just didn't realize there was Clear (or almost clear) PVC pipe, before, and was hoping it might 'Fit the Bill'. :)

Play it cheap, or play it smart. You make such a large financial investment (gear and time) with that r/c submarine. You then contain most of that investment in a material prone to cracking and leaking. Does that make sense?

Don't be penny wise and pound foolish.

R/c submarining is not a poor man's game!

Go with Lexan.

David,

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David,
Do you know of anyone who has tried clear PVC?
I'm thinking it may be just as good as Lexan, for a lot less cost, for what we are doing?
I think the PVC won't crack with temp changes, the way Acrylic does, when the very low temp ballast-propellant hits it, which is the main problem with acrylic, that I've seen?

[Nuke Power]

well you need to ask yourself "how much do i really need for this project?"
My guess would be at most 36in of material. The best price I have found for 36in of lexan tube is about 30bux

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog_name=usplastic&category_name=68&product_id=24993

Your sub is worth 30 dollars worth of material.

[Nuke Power]

oh... never use acrylic

[Nuke Power]

No david uses lexan in all his tubes as does everyone else that offers them.

US Plastics Does sell by the foot I have done it. If you still cant get it try mc master, they will be about 2 more a ft.

"Everybody keeps trying to 'change the Subject'" ..... hmmmm

Well ignore us and go get your pvc. If it works out for you great. If not you have to re invest the money. I am sure the clear PVC is atleast similar to the the other stuff.

Just dont use acrylic/plexiglass.

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No david uses lexan in all his tubes as does everyone else that offers them.

What! I thought David said they were Acrylic ?
If Lexan, I sure didn't know it would crack as easily as mine did ???
Now I am confused.
I was trying to find something more durable at low temp. :confused:

Just Joking about changing the subject.

[Nuke Power]

lexan is used for stuff like bullet proof windows. Its about as good as it gets. Acrylic cracks just by breathing on it. Lexan isnt metal though. It is still plastic and will crack if you treat it bad.

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Well, I went to Sub-drivers page of website but could not find anything about type plastic used. I'm pretty sure I saw Acrylic in print somewhere, tho ? Must have been in one of the forums.

It is still plastic and will crack if you treat it bad.

That's the thing, I did Not 'Treat it Badly', but it still cracked. :(
and I don't like being accused of doing so. :(

[Nuke Power]

trust me is lexan. Ive see the stuff show up and then get cut to length by David.

Last time I cracked lexan, I was cutting it with a miter saw and I hit it the the wrong way. The only other time i was gluing in guide rails with CA and when I hit it with kicker the heat made it snap. I tried this again on another piece and did not have the same results. The only thing I can guess is that the plastic had a pre loaded defect that finally gave way from the added heat.

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Yes, when it's extruded into a cylinder, stresses must be induced, in some areas of it, that just can't handle heat or cold. It seems to be okay otherwise. The propellent/blow gas IS Very Cold.
I'll keep looking for data on the PVC and deside which to try after I get the Nautius kit.
Thanks,

[Kazzer]

Wikipedia says:

Lexan is similar to polymethyl methacrylate (Plexiglas/Lucite/Perspex) and is commonly described as acrylic in appearance, but is far more durable, often to the point of being described as "bulletproof", depending on the thickness of the sample and the type of weapon used.

As such, I figured it was methyl methacrylate. This material is used for making Coran work surfaces and industrial floors. The watery liquid is mixed with peroxide to kick it off, and then mix sand or aggregate. It flows out like a soup and then, quite suddenly sets. Within 15 minutes of pouring it out and raking it over a floor, you can drive a truck over it. Stinks like hell!

The Coran/Silestone installers bond slabs together by running a small amount of mixed resin between the two slabs. The liquid actually melts the edges of the slabs and WELDS them together, unlike epoxy, which will not melt or liquify once set.

This material is also used in those little kits that repair cracks in windshields. We sell them under the Permatex brand. I had a cylinder that was badly crazed and cracked and I ran some of the liquid over the crack and because it is very watery, it permeated into the crack and welded it back together. I then tried it on the crazed part of the cylinder and it seemed to make the crazing worse initially, but after an hour, it had set up and was quite solid. I think I applied too much material and it loosened up the crazed joints initially.

http://www.caswellplating.com/permatex/permsealants.html