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Some videos on how to assemble my 3D printer

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  • #2
    Here's a good video on setting the extrusion rate for your Pruza i3 printer.

    I'm still struggling with getting a good extrusion, but it's early days for me, so I'm expecting lots of quirks and failures.

    Here's my first test piece. Scorched, and 'worms'. It looks like the extruder head had a leak, hence the 'worms'. and the scorched look was because the thermister had popped out of the heater block. I'm amazed at the poor design of this, but someone recommended fire cement to hold it in. I need about 1/100th of a thimble full of that stuff.
    Onward! One day! I'll print something useful! Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0855.JPG Views:	2 Size:	157.3 KB ID:	117121
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Kazzer; 10-29-2016, 06:39 AM.
    Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!


    • #3
      I found out why every thing got scorched! The tiny thermister had popped out of the hole in the heater block. It's only resting in there and is easily dislodged. There is a screw hole next to the thermister hole and I guess there should be a small screw to secure the leads, but I can't find one.
      Last edited by Kazzer; 11-13-2016, 06:27 AM.
      Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!


      • #4
        Well! Last night was fun!

        I'd just made a major discovery on how to stop the constant filament jams blocking up my hot-end (yes folks that's what it's called - minds out of the gutter please) It seems that you must let the head heat up first, then press down the ratchet arm on the stepper motor, then push the filament through until it spews out of the nozzle.

        On finishing up, press the rachet arm down, push in the filament until the nozzle extrudes some 2 inches or more, the pull out the filament. Then pull out the extrusion from the nozzle. This will prevent the nozzle being clogged. Just as I figured this out, the fuzzing thing caught fire.

        Unfortunately, the wire was embedded in a loom serving all the switches and stepper motors, so every piece of electronics is compromised
        Click image for larger version

Name:	image_33348.jpg
Views:	181
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ID:	117368

        Now I'm battling with Ebay for a refund. Damn! I was getting good (er - better) at this. My CAD drawing has improved immensely too. If you haven't tried it, download Autodesk 123D Design.
        Free download software to design 3d models for 3d printing and fabrication for Windows, Mac OS X, iphone, ipad
        Last edited by Kazzer; 11-12-2016, 05:24 AM.
        Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!


        • #5
          Bearing in mind that I don't know the first thing about propeller design, I decided to 3d print three propellers with the blades at different pitches. Figuring on what I once saw on a British Seagull outboard, I made the blade flat and rectangular. I then changed the pitch to make 3 different props as a trial. These are going to go on a weed whacker to propel my canoe.

          Here's the design of one of them. (and if I hear ONE chuckle from HWSNBN, I'll set my dog on him!)
          I've yet to find out how to put a twist in the blade, but at least this will tell me which pitch is best for the tiny 21cc engine. I've sent the file out to a local 3D printer who is charging me $7.50 to print this 5" diameter prop. That's C H E A P!

          This is FUN guys, everybody should try Autodesk 123D design.
          Last edited by Kazzer; 11-13-2016, 06:30 AM.
          Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!