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My type VII build

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  • My type VII build

    My type VII build.
    http://forum.sub-driver.com/album.php?albumid=33
    Last edited by pjdog; 08-24-2009, 08:29 PM.

  • #2
    You used a stern plane bell-crank with a very long moment arm -- how was stern plane response? And the turning radius of your Type-7, how tight is it, were you able to turn in that pool?

    ... AND GET RID OF THAT AWFUL SQUADRON 'GREEN STUFF' PUTTY!!!!!!

    David,
    Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 06-25-2009, 03:44 PM.
    "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

    Comment


    • #3
      have you thought about making telescoping drive shafts. It made things so much easier for me. How much foam did you end up having to cram in yours. How is your roll stability?

      Comment


      • #4
        Squadron 'green stuff' putty

        David:

        What would I use if not 'SQUADRON 'GREEN STUFF' PUTTY'. Only other stuff I've seen is 'SQUADRON 'RED STUFF' PUTTY'. I've never built a plastic model so I'm a virgin (with plastic).

        The rudders where a BIG failure. They where so tight they didn't move. They would break the magnets hold. When I got home I started work the rudders. The starboard rudder worked fine, smooth but the port was a dud. So tight. I worked on them all night last night. Me Thinks maybe I've got it . Going to try again later today. I made a new bell crank. I've got more throw now. Also got the long awaited micro toggle switch with little rubber bootie. attached is a picture of the first local switch I found and the DIGI-KEY micro. Glad I saw yours before I put the big switch in. I like these switches.

        jack
        Attached Files

        Comment


        • #5
          drive shaft couplers

          Rouge sub:

          I did see your drive couplers even before I started the rc sub thing and liked them. That was back in January. I even bought hardware to make some when I started collecting sub stuff. I made an attempt with square brass tubing. However I was not happy with them. After my first day in the pool I will make another attempt. Fighting in that small TYPE VII area to install the couplers is a night mare. Most the time the magnets would grab the pliers from me and I'd drop the couplers. Anyway I will make a set of spring load couplers. I already have the hardware to do it. I've just got so much to do in the rc sub world I'm overwhelmed right now. But I'm making lots of progress.

          Had to cram all the foam I could get in the stern. Don't think you could get any more in. I really don't have anything to compare it to but I think it's stable. Dives level and returns level. Doesn't lean port or starboard.

          Jack
          Last edited by pjdog; 08-21-2009, 10:56 AM.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by pjdog View Post
            David:

            What would I use if not 'SQUADRON 'GREEN STUFF' PUTTY'. Only other stuff I've seen is 'SQUADRON 'RED STUFF' PUTTY'. I've never built a plastic model so I'm a virgin (with plastic).

            The rudders where a BIG failure. They where so tight they didn't move. They would break the magnets hold. When I got home I started work the rudders. The starboard rudder worked fine, smooth but the port was a dud. So tight. I worked on them all night last night. Me Thinks maybe I've got it . Going to try again later today. I made a new bell crank. I've got more throw now. Also got the long awaited micro toggle switch with little rubber bootie. attached is a picture of the first local switch I found and the DIGI-KEY micro. Glad I saw yours before I put the big switch in. I like these switches.

            jack
            Don't buy consumables (other than glue) from the hobby-shop. Only thing you get from them is crap tools and consumables, magazines, glue, and bad advice issued by some snot-nosed kid with studs in his/her lips, and an attitude.

            Here's the filler you need to get: Nitro-Stan glazing putty. You'll get it from your local automotive refinishing supply house (check the Yellow pages).

            I should finish up the Type-7 fittings kit masters this weekend -- orders and a recent cold pushed things back. Mr. Caswell is all over me on this, so mum's the word, please.

            David,
            "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

            Comment


            • #7
              type VII rudders

              David:

              Just got home from using Susan's pool. The rudders work good. Not perfect but good. I'll take your advise on the filler and check the car shop suppliers in town. The type VII turns in 2/3 of the pool at slow motor. So that's pretty good. I don't like the Dumas couplers. They keep giving me trouble. I'd like to get a hose to fit the motor end and dog bones for the drive shaft end. I think it would be smoother and quieter and less trouble. Boats to fast but that's fixed with the left stick.

              Looking forward to your soon to be released stuff.

              I've got a motor in the type VII S/D that sometimes requires a little push to get it running. After I spin it he seems good for the day. But almost always requires a spin in the beginning of a run?

              Jack

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by pjdog View Post
                David:

                Just got home from using Susan's pool. The rudders work good. Not perfect but good. I'll take your advise on the filler and check the car shop suppliers in town. The type VII turns in 2/3 of the pool at slow motor. So that's pretty good. I don't like the Dumas couplers. They keep giving me trouble. I'd like to get a hose to fit the motor end and dog bones for the drive shaft end. I think it would be smoother and quieter and less trouble. Boats to fast but that's fixed with the left stick.

                Looking forward to your soon to be released stuff.

                I've got a motor in the type VII S/D that sometimes requires a little push to get it running. After I spin it he seems good for the day. But almost always requires a spin in the beginning of a run?

                Jack
                Good turning radius then.

                Yeah, with that SD the boat's overpowered, just go easy on the throttle -- but, you've already figured that out.

                Dog-bone installation is a *****, I know. Work out a set of spring-loaded ones and life will be good again.

                How's depth control?

                Sounds like a flat spot on the problem motors commutator or a dirty brush face. Spray some WD-40 into the can and run the thing a bit.

                David,
                "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                Comment


                • #9
                  the dog bone noise seems amplified in these plastic hulls and gives real rattle. If you look at some of Mr M previous work you will see some dog bones that are attached!! silicon sealant applied to the propshaft end to effectively glue the dogbone to the coupler but still providing flexibility. oi belive the intended benefit is to avoid the need for three sets of hands when inserting a twin Drive WTC. i havent dotn that to mine yet, but think it will dampen out some rattles
                  Next time someone points out it takes 42 muscles to frown, point out it will only take 4 muscles to b1tch slap them if they tell you how mnay muscles you need to smile:pop

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Depth control

                    The stern plans are not good. I looked at your Cabel reports on the type VII build and guessed at the length of the shaft for the stern plane control arm. I guessed wrong. I'm not getting enough travel. In fact the travel is very slight. I started the type VII before I had a S/D and radio so I didn't know how much throw I'd have from the servo. I was going to use a four channel Futaba (am) for the boat. I'm kind of stuck cause I don't see how to shorten the arm to increase travel? I mean I can't put another hole in the arm lower in the hull. That's something I should have done before installing the arm just in case.

                    I did increase the throw on the rudders. I'm putting up a pic.

                    Jack
                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by pjdog; 06-26-2009, 12:06 AM. Reason: picture

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by pjdog View Post
                      The stern plans are not good. I looked at your Cabel reports on the type VII build and guessed at the length of the shaft for the stern plane control arm. I guessed wrong. I'm not getting enough travel. In fact the travel is very slight. I started the type VII before I had a S/D and radio so I didn't know how much throw I'd have from the servo. I was going to use a four channel Futaba (am) for the boat. I'm kind of stuck cause I don't see how to shorten the arm to increase travel? I mean I can't put another hole in the arm lower in the hull. That's something I should have done before installing the arm just in case.

                      I did increase the throw on the rudders. I'm putting up a pic.

                      Jack
                      Good job cobbling together that rudder linkage. yeah, you would see very little travel on the stern planes what with that very tall bell-crank.

                      You did good with what you had at hand.

                      No, you can't go any lower on the bell-crank because of the tapering, tight, skeg. You might consider punching a hole through one side of the hull, making up a bell-crank atop one of the stern planes, and going that route to increase stern plane throw. Ugly, I know, but a pragmatic fix for you.

                      Guess I better get hot on that fittings kit, huh?

                      David,
                      Attached Files
                      "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by merriman View Post
                        guess i better get hot on that fittings kit, huh?

                        David,

                        That's what I've been trying to tell ya!!!!! Lets have an ETA PLEASE!
                        Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by kazzer View Post
                          That's what I've been trying to tell ya!!!!! Lets have an ETA PLEASE!
                          Complete masters Saturday. Complete production tools Sunday. Fittings kit bagged and out the door Tuesday/Wednesday.

                          David,
                          "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            kit

                            Mike:

                            Be sure I'm on the list for one or two. (fittings kits). I did check sales to be sure I'm back ordered on that. I'm going to get a type VII/41 for the kit when it arrives. I'm WILL to get my current TYPE VII/C working by god. Good idea - I'll ask god for help with it cause it's been beating the crap out of me.

                            I did get new TRAXX couplers for my current type VII/C. Going to trash the Dumas. I think it's cause the shafts are so short. It's like the couplers are always riding on the dumas coupler rims. If I shim the TRAXX couplers with 5/32 tube I'm sure I can get them to work smooth. That will take load of the motors.

                            Jack

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I am a bit late on this thread now but it seems you beat me to my conclusion david. Perhaps a stern plane setup like the old 32nd parallel type 7 is going to be required with an external throw arm. My stern planes are a bit abysmal. Lucky enough the type 7 has those big fat bow planes. You can drive the boat with those just fine.

                              David is also spot on about the nitro stan. You can cut it with thinner as well and get it in tight spots and it keeps it pliable longer.

                              Comment

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