RE: Ballast tank
Albion,
Thank you and I must say that you are very organized and meticulous on placing your electronics and mechanical devices. I learn something new everyday. Tks,
RE: Ballast Tank
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If you look at the tubine coming off the schrader and also the air pump, they both come together on a brass T piece which is on the left side of the photo, underneath the tray. From there another tube leads to outside the WTC through the end cap and is connected to a bladder. So servo moves one direction and starts the airpump filling the bladder and making the sub surface. If you move the servo the other way it opens the schrader and the bladder deflates and sub submerges.Leave a comment:
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RE: Ballast tank
Albion,
I take it you've got this hooked up to a bladder or a ballon? How has that work out for you?Leave a comment:
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Look at the drawings at the bottom of my postredboat219
Your deduction serves you well, I am using a brass actuator arm to hit the end of the schrader valve when I active my servo from other bulkhead;however, it is a hit and miss sometime the arm does get stuck underneath the valve. Is there another method you would go about doing?Leave a comment:
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redboat219
Your deduction serves you well, I am using a brass actuator arm to hit the end of the schrader valve when I active my servo from other bulkhead;however, it is a hit and miss sometime the arm does get stuck underneath the valve. Is there another method you would go about doing?Leave a comment:
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Looking closely at your pictures I deduced that you're using the straight brass piece at the end of the control rod to hit the tip of the schraeder valve as it moves laterally. Being a straight edge you're most likely to snag the tip of the valve than push it off it's seat. You'll need to fabricate either a inverted L shaped brass piece with a pivot point at the angle that will push up on the schraeder valve everytime the control arm moves laterally OR make a cam that when rotated depresses the schraeder valve. Hope my drawing will help you understand better what I'm trying to convey:biggrin:.Leave a comment:
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Take the cylinders off the bulkhead, and remove the wiring so we can see whats going on better please.Leave a comment:
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oh, you're using the schraeder as the vent valve. Can you post a close up where the actuator arm comes in contact with the bottom of the schraeder valve ( without the wtc tube it's distorting the image of the valve)Leave a comment:
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RE: Ballast tank
Thanks for Kazzer and Merriman replies I will see about getting some pictures later!Leave a comment:
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I recommend you contact the source of that 'experimenters kit', David Walsh. I'm sure he can guide you better as to how to get his KILO WTC to work -- his system is markedly different than ours. I am not qualified to walk you through the in's and out's of that product.
Good luck.
David,
Caswell-D&E Miniatures
I think David has missed the fact that you have purchased a Snort pump, and after a lot of frustration, are trying to convert an 'Experimenter Kit' to a practical Snort system. If actioncia could post some pictures, I'm sure we could work this through for him.Leave a comment:
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I recommend you contact the source of that 'experimenters kit', David Walsh. I'm sure he can guide you better as to how to get his KILO WTC to work -- his system is markedly different than ours. I am not qualified to walk you through the in's and out's of that product.I bought Dave's experimental kit for the kilo where I had to fabricate pretty much everything from scratch ranging from dive plane to fixture to hold the two servos that actuate the dive plane and rudder then I was trying to fit the smart pump inside of 6" WTC which did not go as plan and I personally do not understand just inflating and deflating a ballon would really change my buoyancy. Anyway, later I discovered caswell and having talking with Mike, he suggested on getting a micro pump with controller for their SNORT system. For my ballast tank I've got a schrader valve that is cut off from the bottom half way just so an arm can deflate the valve and one end that has the blow air from the micro pump. My ballast tank has two hole in the bottom for water to come in. Right now I am still trying to get the arm to push the schrader valve every time. Regards,
Good luck.
David,
Caswell-D&E MiniaturesLeave a comment:
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RE: Ballast tank
I bought Dave's experimental kit for the kilo where I had to fabricate pretty much everything from scratch ranging from dive plane to fixture to hold the two servos that actuate the dive plane and rudder then I was trying to fit the smart pump inside of 6" WTC which did not go as plan and I personally do not understand just inflating and deflating a ballon would really change my buoyancy. Anyway, later I discovered caswell and having talking with Mike, he suggested on getting a micro pump with controller for their SNORT system. For my ballast tank I've got a schrader valve that is cut off from the bottom half way just so an arm can deflate the valve and one end that has the blow air from the micro pump. My ballast tank has two hole in the bottom for water to come in. Right now I am still trying to get the arm to push the schrader valve every time. Regards,Leave a comment:
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Give us a list of what you've purchased, and some photos. Then we can see what's going on and help you better.Leave a comment:
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