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Seaview RC Model Lighting Options

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  • Seaview RC Model Lighting Options

    I have been adding LED lights to my Seaview RC model. I start with the Seaview Basic Lighting kit fmo JAI Modeling at:
    And I've come up with a new way to run power to these lights in the RC version of the Seaview (using the Meriman SUB Driver), that I thought I would add for others to comment upon.

    I found that making use of the Kli-Con magnets for attaching the electrical contacts for this RC model was feasible and highly advantageous. I’ve chosen to place a separate battery pack within the Seaview Model’s Flying Sub Bay. From which I attach (solder) Kli-Con magnets to each of the (+) and (-) leads.
    I then attach the matching Kli-Cons through the fwd bhd. of the Flying Sub Bay. I solder two sets of wires to each of the two Kli-Cons that protrude forward of the Bay Bhd. One set of (+) and (-) wires lead in series to the Three (bow and twin fwd bottom) search lights. As installed as recommended in the JAI lighting kit. (Note: the LED lights that come in the kit are water proof, but the rest of the power system for those lights are not – it is meant to be used as a table top display of the model). I then add additional light blockage behind each light (paint, plastic filler and some aluminum foil). This helps keep any light coming from these 3 high intensity lights from glowing thru the skin of the sub or transfer up into the control room area above, that might form a glare of the bow windows that the Up Periscope video camera sees through. The second set of power cables (one (+) and one (-) run up along the top of the Seaview bow to matching Kli-Cons (also soldered to the wires), that hang with some slack just port and starboard of the superstructure attachment hook (that is provided in the Seaview Fittings kit). This provides a quick connection of power to the LED lights within the superstructure assembly (Sail and tail fins). By connecting to matching Kli-Cons attached to the underside of the fwd end of the superstructure (port and starboard of the superstructure bow hook), each soldered to additional power cables running aft along the underside (inside) of the detachable superstructure, I run the (+) cable (and solder it) to the first of two Kli-Con magnets used to hold the sail on to the superstructure (Similar to the method described by David Meriman in his Seaview DVDs). That brings a positive lead into the sail. I solder the three navigation LEDs in series to the two Kli-Cons that hold the sail on to the superstructure. I arranged the Sail Kli-Cons forward and aft inside the sail superstructure cut out, contrary to the port and starboard locations Mr. Merriman shows in his model. The aft Kli-Con then acts as the power connection leading aft to the two stern fin navigation lights. Again I use the two stern LEDs attached in series to this lead. The final power connection is made from the end of the stern lights back all the way forward to the (-) Kli-Con magnets at the bow superstructure hook. I utilized the JAI provided Fiber Optic Bundles to push the LED lights in the stern fins through the fins to the two stern navigation lights provided in the Seaview Moebuis Model. Note: All the JAI LEDS have prewired resistors attached to each light. There is a You Tube video showing the placement of the lights in the sail and stern fins available under “Moebius Seaview Model Lighting Kit. Note: Don’t purchase the Premium Kit, just the standard kit. The premium kit comes with a LED lighting system for the overhead of the Bridge compartment, which is not water-proof! Note: I chose not to install the fwd Flying Sub Bay clear fwd bay wall replacement that comes with the kit. I added extra light insulation around the fwd search light, so not to interfere with the Up Periscope system installed directly above. Thus the light source for the Flying Sub Bay is removed, and thus no need for the translucent fwd sub bay wall provided with the JAI kit.
    So now I’ve run all my lighting and hooked it up through all the Kli-Cons to a 9 Volt battery and everything works. All I need now is to make room in the Flying Sub Bay for the battery in some kind of WT housing that will extrude my matching (+) & (-) leads attached to Kli-Cons to match up with the Kli-Cons in the fwd bay wall.
    So again I turn to Kli-Cons to make this a little easier. Problem was the attachment method for the Flying Sub Bay Hatch as developed by David Meriman caused a center bay obstruction to locate the battery pack. So I utilized 3 sets of Kli-Cons to secure the bay hatch to the Flying Sub Bay. I glued the magnets two the hatch at the fwd Port and Starboard edges of the hatch, and the third magnet to the Starboard aft edge. With matching Kli-Con magnets glued to match in those corners within the Flying Sub Bay. But as David points out in his DVDs, that there is a over pressure within the sub when the ballast system is activated, that could pop-off the bay hatch, so a physical mechanical method is needed to capture the hatch cover is required. To do this I reserved the Port aft corner of the Flying Sub Bay for gluing a threaded bar to the hatch cover that would extend upwards through a drilled hole in the Flying Sub Bay roof, that a thumb screw could attach to. Like Mr. Meriman’s proposed solution for mounting the Up Periscope Camera Sled to the top of the Flying Sub Bay, I utilize this thumb screw to also hold the camera sled in place. When you want to open the bay, I just release some slack on the thumb screw and push downward, the Kli-Con magnet on the Starboard side releases, and I can pull the remaining Kli-Con connections off, thus sliding the bay hatch to the side to get access to the battery. I could un screw the entire thumb screw off the threaded rod, to allow for complete separation of the hatch cover from the sub, if needed. I will post up pictures of this installation when completed. Any thoughts or advise would be appreciated.
    Last edited by; 09-12-2009, 01:50 PM.

  • #2
    Seaview RC model with Lights (Addendum)

    I've added two additional Kli-Con power leads to the Flying Sub Bay battery connection. I have choosen to keep the Moebuis display stand openings (along the bottom of the Seaview keel), for displaying the model when not being used as a working RC model. I have run (+) wires aft to the fwd stand opening and soldered a Kli-Con there, jsut above the opeing (Glued in that position). Like wise I have run a (-) ower lead to the aft stand opening, in a similar arrangement. Thus when the Seaview is on it's stand I can build the display lighting poser sourse in the stand (with an on and off switch). (remembering to remove the battery within the Flying Sub Bay). I plan on providing plugs to fill the two stand keel holes (using Kli-Cons to keep them in place) when using the model as a RC model.


    • #3
      How did this all work out for you? The reason I ask is that I am pulling out my Teskey 57 Seaview out of storage for a full refit. I was looking to see about Led lighting along with connections to main battery along with other updates. Could you post photos?