Vent/Blow using 2 Shrader-Valves ?

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  • toppack
    Rear Admiral
    • Nov 2008
    • 1124

    Vent/Blow using 2 Shrader-Valves ?

    I've been working on a a Vent/Blow valving system using 2 schrader-valves and a simple see-saw arm activating them. The arm's pivot-point is between the 2 valves and one end of the see-saw arm is attached to an adjustable rod to servo.
    So, when servo pushes the rod it activates 1 valve and when it pulls the rod it activates the other valve.
    The blow valve connects by tube to storage tank and vent valve just has a hole to outside.
    Has anyone tried this setup or have any ideas on it's effectiveness?
    Thanks,
    Last edited by toppack; 06-30-2009, 08:55 PM.
    Rick L.
    --------------------------------------------
    * Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
    Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *
  • Slats
    Vice Admiral
    • Aug 2008
    • 1776

    #2
    nope have not tried it but when you vent the tank how fast / effective are you finding the flood?

    One minor criticism I have for the SD is that I find occassionally the vent mechanism needs a bit of persuasion via trim tabbing to ensure it actually closes when surfaced. The advantage I see with what you have with the shradder valve is closed should mean closed with no minor / partially openned situations occurring.

    Photos please - sounds promising.

    J
    John Slater

    Sydney Australia

    You would not steal a wallet so don't steal people's livelihood.
    Think of that before your buy "cheap" pirated goods or download others work protected by copyright. Theft is theft.



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    • toppack
      Rear Admiral
      • Nov 2008
      • 1124

      #3
      Yes, I've had problems with vent not closing, also.
      It's just an idea right now, I may have to build it tho. :)
      Rick L.
      --------------------------------------------
      * Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
      Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *

      Comment

      • toppack
        Rear Admiral
        • Nov 2008
        • 1124

        #4
        The biggest problem with using a Schrader-valve for the Vent valve is positioning it inside the ballast chamber so no air bubbles are trapped inside.The valve needs to be at highest point in chamber and that makes it very difficult to locate it in bulkhead and be able to activate both valves with a simple see-saw arm. The valves are too long.

        David, I now see why you used your own vent valve design. :)

        I haven't given up on it tho, maybe there's a way to make it work sufficiently, with it very close to top, if the assembly is mounted in hull with the aft end slightly higher than front end?
        Last edited by toppack; 06-30-2009, 08:53 PM.
        Rick L.
        --------------------------------------------
        * Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
        Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *

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        • He Who Shall Not Be Named
          Moderator
          • Aug 2008
          • 12368

          #5
          I circled this same tree some 25 years ago. that's why you have the vent in its current form.

          David,
          Who is John Galt?

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          • Nuke Power
            Banned
            • Dec 2008
            • 277

            #6
            you could keep your current servo set up and simply modify the vent valve. Drill a hole in the top of the cylinder then make a dumbell shaped piece with rubber on one side and a spring on the other to ensure the valve shuts. This has been done with success for awhile.

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            • toppack
              Rear Admiral
              • Nov 2008
              • 1124

              #7
              I think I understand what you're saying but one purpose of my design is to eliminate anything on the outside of the tube, with everything mounted in the bulkhead assembly and just a hole thru tube to outside that lines up with a hole in very top of bulkhead.
              I think I have a working design if I can locate a very short schrader-valve. I have some in my '34 Streetrod that are flush with surface of wheel but I don't remember how long they are inside the wheel. I need to locate some like that or similar to get it as short as possible. I know they are made in various lengths internally, it's just a matter of finding the shortest available.
              I plan to fabricate the complete bulkhead assembly, since I don't think anyone will sell just that part separately.
              Last edited by toppack; 06-30-2009, 08:53 PM.
              Rick L.
              --------------------------------------------
              * Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
              Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *

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