Help Im converting lionfish revell rc

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • GatoSubfan
    Lieutenant, Junior Grade
    • Sep 2013
    • 18

    Help Im converting lionfish revell rc

    Im converting my lionfish into rc and have no idea were to start in the electronics department im very green to the rc hobby and this will be my first sub build im starting on.
    Looking to buy from rcsubworkshop.com for starters but have no idea what or were to start.
    If anyone has ever converted this submarine into rc id love some help and advice on what to buy for electronics, shaft and rudder seals to keep my sub dry inside ect.
    Any help would be great thx
  • crazygary
    Captain
    • Sep 2012
    • 610

    #2
    Hey, welcome to "the pen", GatoSubfan!!

    You're in the right place for answers and help with your sub conversion!

    As a "heads up", though, a few forum members have had some pretty bad experiences with
    the WTCs' from rcsubworkshop.com! Nice prices, but..........!

    Check out: sub-driver.com for quality components as well as complete "Sub Drivers". There are also links
    on this forum to a number of other reputable people to buy from! Take your time and research a little before
    shelling out your hard earned cash!!

    Or, check "The Scrap Yard" part of this forum for good deals. May not always have what you're looking for,
    but you can find some pretty sweet deals.

    Meanwhile, stick around and enjoy the ride!!

    crazygary

    Comment

    • He Who Shall Not Be Named
      Moderator
      • Aug 2008
      • 12253

      #3
      Originally posted by GatoSubfan
      Im converting my lionfish into rc and have no idea were to start in the electronics department im very green to the rc hobby and this will be my first sub build im starting on.
      Looking to buy from rcsubworkshop.com for starters but have no idea what or were to start.
      If anyone has ever converted this submarine into rc id love some help and advice on what to buy for electronics, shaft and rudder seals to keep my sub dry inside ect.
      Any help would be great thx
      Hey!, GatoSubfan:

      R/c submarining is not an entry-level activity -- this is the toughest end of the entire r/c vehicle game. Not for uninformed light-weights.

      Don't buy any r/c sub stuff till you first cut your teeth by installing the r/c gear into and getting operational simpler types of r/c vehicles: R/c Cars, boats, tanks, planes, helicopters. Do the easy stuff first. And only after you have done all that ... only then ... consider getting into non-toy type r/c model submarines.

      Crawl, stumble, walk, run, sprint. The natural order of things.

      M
      Wet Blanket In Charge
      Who is John Galt?

      Comment

      • GatoSubfan
        Lieutenant, Junior Grade
        • Sep 2013
        • 18

        #4
        Ya iv heard good and bad things about WTC but the price is right for me right now as a beginner, I dont want to spend alot on this hobby till i now more about it
        I just what to start small with a surface running sub then work my way to my big diving gato, I just need help with what i will need for electronics to get my sub on the water.
        If you could point me to what i need to get her going i will be very grateful.

        Oh p.s. i have no idea what to look for in the scrap yard lol i now very little about this hobby lol

        Comment

        • GatoSubfan
          Lieutenant, Junior Grade
          • Sep 2013
          • 18

          #5
          I under stand were your coming from but how is this submarine any different from a boat or car
          Im building it from scratch i just need to learn the electronics and how they work and what to use properly,
          And the rest ill use my brain to figure out on my own, To me i dont see how a surface running sub is rocket sicence
          its pretty strait forward to me

          Comment

          • He Who Shall Not Be Named
            Moderator
            • Aug 2008
            • 12253

            #6
            Oh ... you're going to make your boat a surface runner. That indeed is a bit less complicated than a proper submarine. However, and this is a big point: all the watertight measures you would take for a fully capable r/c submarine have to be embodied by your 'surface running' r/c submarine. This is because of the vehicles very low freeboard; that is to say, most of the hull in surface trim is underwater -- that requires all of your electronics must be housed in a water-tight enclosure. Yes, there is next to no differential pressure to worry about, so that enclosure can be of thin section, but all the measures to keep the water out are about the same as for the fully capable r/c submarine.

            Also, the submarine is vary narrow of beam making for a tight, hard to get at arrangement of propulsion and control elements. Not the ideal platform for the beginner trying to figure out the why's and wherefore's of r/c control devices, their installation, care, and repair.

            The submarine -- even a surface runner -- differs from a boat and car because the electronics are subject to drowning and the access to the gadgets is very, very tight.

            Not recommended.

            M
            Who is John Galt?

            Comment

            • crazygary
              Captain
              • Sep 2012
              • 610

              #7
              Mornin', GatoSubfan!!

              O.K.! Here's a basic rundown regarding what you'll need to convert your Lionfish to an r/c sub:

              1- Transmitter and receiver! Since you're building it as a surface runner, you can get away with a 2.4Ghz setup, but if you're planning ahead for future subs,
              you'll need to go with a 75Mhz setup. Why not use the 2.4Ghz radio? Because it won't send a signal through water! It appears that water has a frequency
              much too close to 2.4Ghz, and the radio signal can't penetrate it!

              A better option would be to pick up on, at least, a 6-channel 75Mhz system. For a fully functioning sub you'll need an absolute minimum of 4 channels anyway.
              If you go this route right from the "get-go", you'll be way ahead of the game when you get to building a dynamic diver or a static diver.

              2- For a surface runner, you don't really need to spend your money on a typical WTC.(Water Tight Cylinder) Many modelers have, successfully, made up their
              own water tight compartments from sheet styrene. All you need is to build a water tight enclosure, of some sort, that you can put holes in so that the prop shaft
              can be mated to the motor, and pushrods can protrude through to make your control surfaces operate. Keep in mind that these items will need to have shaft seals
              installed so the water can't enter your w.t. compartment. Also, since she's gonna be a surface runner, you don't have to be concerned with operating dive planes!
              Just the rudder!

              3- A motor, to make it go!! The motors from rcsubworkshop are pretty decent. They also have shaft seals, of varying sizes, so you'll have to make decisions based
              on your propshaft and rudder pushrod diameters.

              4- A servo for the rudder. There are different types of servos to choose from. The standard "rotary" types, and "linear" servos. The choice depends on how much
              space you have in your w.t. compartment!

              5- A motor speed controller, also known as an ESC (Electronic Speed Controller). This, when properly connected to your motor and receiver, will let you control the speed at which your sub runs.

              I think that's pretty much "it", for a surface runner. The same components you'd need for a surface ship!

              I hope this helps you on your way to a successful r/c sub!
              Best of luck with your build!

              Take lots of photos and post what you're doing!! You might just come up with something that can help someone else!!

              CG

              Comment

              • crazygary
                Captain
                • Sep 2012
                • 610

                #8
                OOps!!

                Forgot about a battery to power everything up!!
                LiPo (Lithium Polymer) batteries seem to be "the ticket"!

                Battery size is determined by the size and needs of your motor!

                CG

                Comment

                • GatoSubfan
                  Lieutenant, Junior Grade
                  • Sep 2013
                  • 18

                  #9
                  Ok i dont know if you can see this link but this is the cart i came up with
                  As my best guess at what i want and need,
                  Please tell me if im right or wrong in my choices help me correct my shoping cart if im wrong with some of the stuff i picked out.
                  Id be very thankful for the help



                  Thank you CrazyGary you helped me out more then anyone on this forum ever has or even the sub stores that sell the stuff i need Thx!!

                  Comment

                  • crazygary
                    Captain
                    • Sep 2012
                    • 610

                    #10
                    Sorry, Bro', but I can't access your cart! Bummer!

                    If you can list what you saved, and describe it to me, I might could help ya!

                    As an afterthought, if you haven't put it in your cart already, you can opt to
                    pick up on a cylinder and a couple of end caps, depending on what would be the inside diameter of your Lionfish!
                    I'll check into that in a little while and see if I can get some info.

                    That would keep you from having to build something and save some time, too.

                    Another pretty decent place to find servos, etc., would be: hobbyking.com

                    Also a lot of "off-shore" items, but not bad stuff!

                    If you're not looking to buy a 6-channel, 75Mhz radio system, they have a pretty nice
                    2,4Ghz setup, that's transmitter and receiver, for around $40.00! It's a "pistol grip" type
                    with a pretty user friendly LCD display so you can keep track of what your doing! I have one for
                    a couple of my "targets" (submariner slang for a surface ship) and like it a lot! But again, no good
                    for anything but a surface runner!

                    CG

                    Comment

                    • crazygary
                      Captain
                      • Sep 2012
                      • 610

                      #11
                      There appears to be a Revell Lionfish build on the SubCommittee website.
                      Take a look: subcommittee.com - I was referred there by rcgroups.com

                      Type into the search: revel uss lionfish

                      Some useful information there for you!

                      Hope this helps!

                      CG

                      Comment

                      • crazygary
                        Captain
                        • Sep 2012
                        • 610

                        #12
                        Forgot to tell you....do the search in their "Forum" section!!

                        CG

                        Comment

                        • GatoSubfan
                          Lieutenant, Junior Grade
                          • Sep 2013
                          • 18

                          #13
                          Im not looking to buy a very fancy radio transmitter for this sub it will be a lone sub, A totally different set up im guessing from my big 1:72 gato ill be building in the future im buying all my equipment from subdriver.com.
                          i just want a cheap but good controller for this sub, then on to the really good stuff for my big gato build.

                          Ok ill try this way

                          Model: JAPAN MABUCHI ~ Electric Motor 130 http://www.rc-sub-workshop.com/Details.aspx?id=17
                          Model: 130" ~ 180" Size Motor MOTOR MOUNT ( No including motor ) (2) http://www.rc-sub-workshop.com/Details.aspx?id=234
                          Model: Shaft seals ID 3mm X OD 6mm X Thick'2mm - 1pair. For my propeller shafts http://www.rc-sub-workshop.com/Details.aspx?id=235
                          Model: Propeller Shaft "OD"M2 - "Long" 210mm - “HIROBO” (2) http://www.rc-sub-workshop.com/Details.aspx?id=32
                          Model: Corona RS410II FM / PPM 4ch 72MHz Long Range Mini Receiver http://www.rc-sub-workshop.com/Details.aspx?id=180
                          Model: MINI-ESC (Type – M) (FORWARD & REVERSE) DC4v – 8.4v http://www.rc-sub-workshop.com/Details.aspx?id=213
                          Model: Aostar 9gram Servo "1"pair http://www.rc-sub-workshop.com/Details.aspx?id=91
                          Model: Micro 9g Servo Mount ( x1pc ) http://www.rc-sub-workshop.com/Details.aspx?id=292
                          Model: Universal joints "ID" 2mm x 2mm http://www.rc-sub-workshop.com/Details.aspx?id=218

                          Tell me what i picked out wrong!! :P

                          I measured my sub to be about 12" long of working space and 1 1/2 tall and 1 7/8 wide i think all the electronics can fit inside it just fine *hopefully*

                          Heres a guy that converted his lionfish into rc not much info but it helps me out a bit



                          Comment

                          • crazygary
                            Captain
                            • Sep 2012
                            • 610

                            #14
                            I'm off to my VFW meeting in a little while, so won't be able to go into much detail right now.

                            Your choices seem to be o.k., but you have a motor shaft of 2mm and a 3mm shaft seal! That ain't gonna work!
                            The 3mm shaft seal is 1mm bigger in the i.d. than your shaft is on the o.d.! Water leak for sure!!

                            Otherwise, you'll probably be o.k.

                            One other thing, the receiver you listed as 72MHZ, not so good, unless you have a 72Mhz transmitter.
                            However, 72MHZ is reserved for the model aircraft guys! 75Mhz is a better option unless there's absolutely no chance that you'll ever run your sub
                            where there might be some model airplane activity! They don't like it much when all of a sudden they lose control of their high dollar
                            model airplanes!! Either go 75MHZ, or 2.4Ghz for your sub. The 75 will be what you want for your Gato, but the 2.4 will get you in the water with your surface runner!

                            CG

                            Comment

                            Working...