It's been my experience that the first things to get broken on these r/c converted plastic kits are any railings on the main deck. Such was the case with the Type-7 -- over time I eventually had to replace all of the fragile plastic railing with soldered .032" diameter brass rod. Same will be the case with the Type-9 models.
The good news is that the railing on the sail can be left plastic as it is not nearly as vulnerable to collision and handling accidents as are the deck railing.
I had to come up with a specialized soldering holding fixture to insure symmetry of the middle longitudinal lengths of deck railing. Note that I employ magnets that work to sandwitch the vertical elements of the railing (the stanchions), that has already been glued into the side of the hull, between the external removable magnet, and a smaller magnet set into the face of the holding fixture. It was an easy matter to solder the top longitudinal length of railing by hand -- it was this railing, along with the stanchions, that formed the indexing network that assured centering of the short lengths of middle longitudinal railing that fit between stanchions.
Since the stanchions were glued to the easily melted styrene plastic hull, I had to insure that not too much of the soldering heat conducted from the base of the stanchions got into the hull -- that's why the three aluminum heat-sinks you see in the shots.
Job is about 80% done here, a few more longitudinal pieces of railing to install and I can move onto the port side.
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